Pistons Out, question about cleaning block
#1
Burning Brakes
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Pistons Out, question about cleaning block
I took the pistons out today in the process of installing new rings and rod bearings.
One question; before I reinstall the pistons should I do any cleaning of the inside of the block, flushing, etc...?
I am not cracking open the block halves or installing new main bearings. I will be removing the oil pump and redoing the seals and "O" ring.
One question; before I reinstall the pistons should I do any cleaning of the inside of the block, flushing, etc...?
I am not cracking open the block halves or installing new main bearings. I will be removing the oil pump and redoing the seals and "O" ring.
#2
Nordschleife Master
its difficult to flush without the heads on. Ideally you would have done that before disassembly. If you are worried about the water passages in between the bores you will have to do that by hand. They do look dirty to say the least. You may want to try something like a mothers power ball mini that goes on the end of a drill that could fit in between the cavities there and could clean the interior of the block up.
But as for flushing, i dont think it will do much now, but dont think it will hurt either, just dont think it will be very effective.
But as for flushing, i dont think it will do much now, but dont think it will hurt either, just dont think it will be very effective.
#3
Team Owner
If you want to do any cleaning then you might try some simple green and a tooth brush (this works on the pistons too ), Dont do any scrubbing on the outsides of the pistons they should have a dull green/grey color, This is the chromium coating that keeps the pistons from galling on the cyls. After soaking the piston heads in simple green you can use a broken ring to clean out the ring lands with a tooth brush follow up, Then wash in Hot water. I would check the end play of the crank as now is the best time to remove the girdle. If you have an auto you might be surprised at how the bearings are wearing. When i did mine i removed the girdle and had the crank polished , the bearings were all wering funny so i replaced them the crank did check out good after the polish. If you do remove the crank for polishing then make sure you wash it atleast 3 different times with carb cleaner and brake cleaner followed bu a hot water/ soap wash >there will be polishing particles in the oil passageways, and now is the time to remove them. As you install the pistons use some oil on the rings/bores. Prime the oil pump with some STP on the gears to help it suck the fresh oil into the girdle
#4
Nordschleife Master
Good tip, does a carb cleaner eat away at this coating if the piston sits in it for too long? Or will chemicals not break it down?
#5
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David,
My cooling chambers looked pretty much the same as yours. I took a scotch pad and cut a piece of pvc pipe about 2" in width and 12" long, attached the scotch pad to the pvc and brushed up and down. Worked pretty good but messy and tiring. Afterwards I sprayed a degreaser on the block and power washed it inside and out.
I left the crank in but that was it and took brake cleaner to all the passages and oil valves etc.
Looks pretty good but the coolant residue was not fun.
Have fun!
My cooling chambers looked pretty much the same as yours. I took a scotch pad and cut a piece of pvc pipe about 2" in width and 12" long, attached the scotch pad to the pvc and brushed up and down. Worked pretty good but messy and tiring. Afterwards I sprayed a degreaser on the block and power washed it inside and out.
I left the crank in but that was it and took brake cleaner to all the passages and oil valves etc.
Looks pretty good but the coolant residue was not fun.
Have fun!
#6
Team Owner
I dont know if the carb cleaner will attack the chromium but i know that the simple green seems to cut the carbon in the ring lands and it rinses clean
#7
Burning Brakes
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David,
My cooling chambers looked pretty much the same as yours. I took a scotch pad and cut a piece of pvc pipe about 2" in width and 12" long, attached the scotch pad to the pvc and brushed up and down. Worked pretty good but messy and tiring. Afterwards I sprayed a degreaser on the block and power washed it inside and out.
I left the crank in but that was it and took brake cleaner to all the passages and oil valves etc.
Looks pretty good but the coolant residue was not fun.
Have fun!
My cooling chambers looked pretty much the same as yours. I took a scotch pad and cut a piece of pvc pipe about 2" in width and 12" long, attached the scotch pad to the pvc and brushed up and down. Worked pretty good but messy and tiring. Afterwards I sprayed a degreaser on the block and power washed it inside and out.
I left the crank in but that was it and took brake cleaner to all the passages and oil valves etc.
Looks pretty good but the coolant residue was not fun.
Have fun!
THanks
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Good question Ryan, I was going for the Berrymans as I read in some posting here....to soak the pistons in Berrymans Chem Dip & Parts Cleaner overnite? Is Berrymans OK as well?
#9
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That was 2004, no issues to speak of. So either what I used is ok or I'm damn lucky
Todd uses mineral spirits to clean his engines. Strong and cheap.
#10
Burning Brakes
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I am still just wondering if the inside of the block is good to go without a pressure washing/parts cleaner washing or should I go ahead and wash the area around the crank, cylinder walls, etc.
Or just a good spray with mineral spirits as you suggested above?
Or just a good spray with mineral spirits as you suggested above?
#11
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[QUOTE=David L. Lutz;5249864]
I am not cracking open the block halves or installing new main bearings.
why not replace the mains while you have it down this far?
you could then properly clean all passages and not worry about water contamination........or bad/good main bearings (that you can't see).
--Russ
I am not cracking open the block halves or installing new main bearings.
why not replace the mains while you have it down this far?
you could then properly clean all passages and not worry about water contamination........or bad/good main bearings (that you can't see).
--Russ
#12
Burning Brakes
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Russ,
I am tomorrow reconfirming my crank end play measurment. (using a new dial indicator) If it is where it was when I checked it before the tear down I think I am just going to have to stop and not go any further.
I understand your thinking, but I am much, much deeper than I orginally planned and based on my current findings I am certian that my orginal problem was what I suspected anyway, bent valves. The machine shop just informed me last Friday that I did have 2 bent intake valves and quite abit of play in my guides.
Thanks for your advise.
I am tomorrow reconfirming my crank end play measurment. (using a new dial indicator) If it is where it was when I checked it before the tear down I think I am just going to have to stop and not go any further.
I understand your thinking, but I am much, much deeper than I orginally planned and based on my current findings I am certian that my orginal problem was what I suspected anyway, bent valves. The machine shop just informed me last Friday that I did have 2 bent intake valves and quite abit of play in my guides.
Thanks for your advise.