Originally Posted by Rob M Budd

Here's a link to the instructions for the liner and emblem that are on my website. A copy should have been included with the liner. If they are missing you can download them or let me know and I will email them.

The biggest mistake made on most installs is not removing the hood. It takes an extra 30-40 minutes to remove and install a 928 hood. It's well worth the time to get it right. Be sure to mark it for re-installation.

The adhesive to use is 3M # 80. Its a contact cement formula unlike most other spray adhesives. I used it on mine 3 years ago and have had no issues at all.
I also used 3M # 80 to install several dozen other liners on various makes and models at my shop. So far I've had no complaints. Its available at home depot.

The material itself is designed for airplane bulkheads and is approved for aircraft by the FAA. You will not find his material in most industrial supply houses. It's a closed cell structure and will hold up to oil, antifreeze, water, and mildew. It will not rot like the factory liner.

It can be mounted with the texture side facing out for a more factory type look or with the smooth side out.
The emblem decal which will mount only on the smooth side was an afterthought that just seemed to work well and look good. I've had no issues with it coming loose or shrinking. The adhesive on the decal is on only one side. It's made from high performance exterior vinyl designed for exterior applications.

My sincere thanks to the many Rennlisters that have chosen my hood liner.
If anyone has any issues with any of my liners, please let me know.

Originally Posted by dr bob

I haven't done the 928 hood, but have done several other similar projects. I'll share what I've learned from those, and relate them to the 928 hoodliner.

1) Plan to take the hood off so you can get the old material off. You'll want to prep a workspace that has carpet, and old blanket, maybe some foam blocks for support under the blanket. It takes two people to get the hood off safely, and two to put it back on. Advice from others is to unbolt the hinge from the car and leave them attached to the hood. This will reduce or eliminate the hood alignment normally needed on re-installation.

2) Wax the underside areas of the hoow where you don't want things to stick. Don't buff the haze off until your project is complete.

3) Get ALL the old foam bits off of the hood. Use a plastic scraper you can find at Home Depot, so you don't damage the paint on the hood. A shop vac is a big help for this step.

4) Remove as much of the old adhesive as you can. Paint thinner won't do much on any of the yellow adhesives, but may help with the factory stuff. By the time you get to a thinner that will get the yellow stuff off, you get to the point where the paint is softened too. Many have recommended Goof-Off for this, but I have no personal experience with that. I'd certainly try it. The yellow contact cement is generally pretty durable, so if you can't get it all off it's OK-- the new coat of adhesive will 'reactivate' the old a little bit.

5) Mask off the parts of the hood that you don't want glue on if you are using a spray adhesive. I use tape and masking paper that you can find in the paint department at H-D. I also have a dispenser stool that applies the tape to the paper so this is a really simple step in my garage. Newspaper might be OK for this, but it risks tearing if you happen to get it sticky and then drag the coated liner across it.

6) Dry fit the liner to the hood, fitting it so it isn't stretched to fit the opening. Do your trimming now. As others have suggested, use masking tape to make index match-marks on the liner and the hood to aid with getting the foam back in perfectly.

7) Follow the application directions on the adhesive can. The most important of these will be the tack time. Because the adhesive depends on evaporation to dry and set, you need almost all of that to happen before you put the liner against the hood surface.

8) Lay out wax paper to cover the opening in the hood, with ends of the pieces sticking past the opening. Double up the wax paper layer by cutting it long enough to go across the opening and then back, so you have a folded end on one side of the hood. Use little tape tabs to hold the paper in place.

9) Carefully place the liner in place on top of the wax paper, aligning it using the match marks you put there previously. Once you are comfortable with the location, starting in the middle, carefully pull on the wax paper, the hood face first, so it "unfolds" between the liner and the hood. As you withdraw the paper slowly a few inches at a time, carefully press the liner firmly to the hood surface without stretching it. Moving from the middle towards the ends of the hood, you'll be able to get good contact and adhesion without allowing any air pockets to form.

10) Allow the adhesive to set up for a day, undisturbed, before you reinstall the hood of the car. Be sure to remove the masking, buff of that wax you left on there, and take pictures of the process for others to learn from.


I like the industrial-strength adhesives that generally are not available to the consumer market. The 3M 77 and even the 90 spray adhesives have a tough time dealing with the combination of high underhood temps and the sun loading on my black car in SoCal summer. The Permatex headliner adhesive may be the best choice among commonly-available products. I have never used that myself though. I'm somewhat impressed that the original liner on my car is still intact after almost 20 years in that same environment. It is just a matter of time before it fails, however. I guess I'll be on the phone soon, looking for a factory replacement. This might be a good "clinic" project, since a few sets of hands at critical steps would make this go a lot smoother. Plus, I'd only have to clean out the spray gun once for two or three installs.