GoRideSno

Here is the episode.

With supercharger on I drove out to do some testing. 1/2 mile from home the car stalled. I thought the turbo hose after the blower had popped off or split. That part seemed ok. I started the car to better diagnose the air leak. I ran it for about 30-45 sec and found it was the TB to MAF boot that had popped off.
I removed all tubing (SC Spinning freely) and atttempted to drive home. Car stalled-nice tow truck guy-angry xmas shoppers.
At home car starts up fine w/ SC belt off. I removed SC and drove around the block. It felt to be at 85-90%. At home I saw that I had left some wire on top of fuel rail(knock sensor?) un plugged. Plugged it back. Un hooked batery to reset computer b/c of changes. Reconnected batt and now it won't pull out of the garage. ARM1 air fuel ratio meter gives no signal.

Before I spend $150 and 2 hours installing a new O2 sensor someone tell me if the following logic is flawed.

Air passing through the MAF but leaking out before the throttle body told the computer to send way too much fuel for the 30-45 sec. Raw fuel made it to the O2 sensor and ruined it. Car ran fine until the batt was un hooked. After that it couldn't re-learn to make the right ratio b/c of no signal from O2 sensor.

Any other theories?

TIA
Andy K

WallyP

The oxygen sensor is not needed for the car to run.

When the engine is started from cold, the oxygen sensor is not hot enough to function, so the engine runs in "open loop" mode. It will run in open loop indefinitely if the oxygen sensor is bad or disconnected.

The oxygen sensor is only a "trimming" device, which enables the LH ECU to slightly modify the air/fuel ratio to achieve stocheometric burning.

Your sensor may be bad (or just temporarily fouled), since the ARM doesn't function, but it won't keep the engine from running.

Check the TDC sensor hookup at the back of the engine, since you were working in that area.

Or, could be totally unrelated to the supercharger and the work that you did - but that is always a good place to start looking.

GoRideSno

Thanks Wally,

Some more things to consider:

The car would start fine but would not pull out of the garage
I don't think the engine ever cooled completely between starting/driving attempts
I have done the fuel pump and LH relay swap with two known good relays.

I'll probably get at it tomorrow since I am off and post the results.

Thanks again Wally

Andy K

tdelarm

Andy,

Holler if you need an extra hand. I'm in Woodland Hills.

Tim Delarm
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

GoRideSno

Thanks Tim,
After all it was you that got me in this mess with the supercharger.
Andy K

tdelarm

Ummmm...was I sober that day? Will it hold up in court?

Tim
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

John Speake

Hi Andy,

Go back and check that wire you found loose, is it now really in the right place ?

If (for example)it was temp senor 2, then that could mess things up. In any case, try it disconnected and see what changes.

I suppose you could have somehow messed up the MAF. might be worth at least seeing if the wire is still in one piece.........

GoRideSno

I unhooked the battery for 30 min today then restarted and everything was fine. The first two times I had only unhooked it shortly. I forgot I had moved the ground on the ARM1. The new spot just was not grounding, which was the problem there.

This set of unrelated occurences looked very much like what had ruined my O2 sensor before. I guess I am lucky.

If anything is to be learned from this post it would be that it takes a while for the computer to reset by battery disconnect.

Tahnks all for your help.
Andy K