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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
CT tried that in the old days and i just laughed at them, for what seemed obvious. lift it by the ball joint and its just like jacking up the car, but the spring is compressed about 1/2 normal. need to do the "roll back technique" !
It pains me to say it, but you're right about lifting at or near the balljoint; there is a lot of spring tension there. My guy tried lifting as close as possible, but it still rode high, the first time. However, using the roll back method with a short lift means the tires roll over uneven surfaces, and may not calibrate properly.

I may still make a bar like tow trucks have, which lifts at the tires. Otherwise, I saw in the WSM that the (what I thought was a special) tool for pulling the car down on the rack is nothing but an engine holding brace. I'll either make or buy one of these.



Originally Posted by WSM 44 - 2, 2a
Obtain actual vehicle height as follows:

- After the vehicle has been raised, starting at the influenced vehicle height, pull the front axle down by 60 - 70 mm and hold for 1 minute. Use special tool 10 - 222 A for this. Keep to the specified time.

- After releasing the vehicle, bounce the front and rear axles - approx. 25 mm - a few times.

For the pulling down procedure, fasten the engine support (prop device) 10-222 A to the stabilizer. Use suitable hooks or straps. The transport lugs (strap No. 28, Page 40-7) may be used if there is enough distance between the rails of the platform. This is possible without removing the sump guard.




Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Check beforehand that you steering wheel is centered when the rack is centered and you won't need the to bring the centering bolt.
Good call! I'm not sure if the (extended hub) wheel is on the right tooth, as I hurriedly replaced it at Shane's house. (Thanks again, Shane!)

Anyone know the part number, offhand, for the centering bolt? I'd ask to borrow, but I'm sure I'll need one again.


Originally Posted by drnick
i think the 928 is more sensitive than most to having different tyres front to rear.
These old tires are cracking(!), and may be damaged internally, as well as being a different brand. Alignment guy said even aligning with the wrong tire pressure can throw off the reading.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:54 PM
  #32  
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DR shows the rack centering bolt PN as 000.721.913.20

It's a 12 x 1.5 (most hardware stores don't carry that pitch size for a 12mm, but some have said Ace has it) that is ground to a point.

If the alignment rack is short, then rolling calibration is out. True, the pull down tool looks like an engine support bar. As long as it spans the rack ramp gap, it should work. I got a 1100 lb liftbar off eBay - way overkill, must weight 60 lbs. http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTOMOTIVE-CAR-E...QQcmdZViewItem

One rated half that is very cheap and would work fine for the motor as well as suspension pull down, but I don't see any on eBay right now that have 2 pull points. A 4x4 with two threaded eye or hook bolts and some chain should work.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:58 PM
  #33  
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I tried making a centering bolt, but without a lathe, I couldn't center the point, so as the bolt was tightened, it would move the rack back and forth.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #34  
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Ken-
I've got a rack centering bolt I can send to you, if you don't need it in a huge hurry. Let me know if you want it, it's a homemade one, and I can "home-make" some more.
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