Brittany Chen Li

Okay, Wiper does not engage properly and hatch has a large gap when shut. I removed rubber bumpers and side hatch guides and it still does not shut tight. I read some archived post on the subject but I think they're different. I need Photos or drawings on how to fix this I read on may of your many WONDERFUL Web sites but it still is not the same problem. Please help this girl once again. Thanks in advance. Brittany Chen Li P.S. This site is LOOKING COOL! <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" /> Thanks Thom and Dave and Randy ! Its Nice to have time to be back.Thanks to all of you for your advise! Brittany

Randy V

Welcome back Britt - we missed you.

SteveG

Brittany: Greg Nichols' site has several entries under "exterior" then "rear hatch." You might look at the entry under "adjustment" first. I don't think any of his posts have any pictures. If that doesn't work, it sounds like you need to install a shim under the latch plate. The hatch is a frequent problem.

Big Dave

Britt:

I had a similar problem where my wiper was not engaging....it turned out that the allen-head bolts securing my the lower part of the hatch mechanism were not seated properly.

Try taking yours out, push the bottom hatch lock assembly as far down as it will go, and then put the bolts back in and tighten them down....Hope that helps!

Brittany Chen Li

Thanks to you all, I'll try to adjust it.Dave, push what part down the round cylinder thing in the middle? I wish I had a brake down of the parts maybe that would help me see it in my mind first. I just don't want to get stuck and have my hatch blowing around behind me as I drive down the road. Its bad now every time I stop people stare because my brakes sqeeck so bad. <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" /> Off Subject but the Ft.pads look fine but they make way to much noise. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Thom1

Hi Brittany,

Welcome back. My rear wiper did not work once because the retaining nuts (that hold the wipers down on the oscillating posts) just beneath the plastic caps were not tight.

Brakes squeal because metal shimmies against metal. The metal backing of the pad vibrates where it touches the pistons in the calipers. I found some antisqueal adhesive pads to glue to the back of my pads. Most part stores carry antisqueal juices. These mainly glue the pad to the pistons. The main problem now would be just getting the pads and piston ends clean enough for the goo to adhere to both surfaces. The other tough part is getting the wear sensors out of the pads without breaking them. I insert a miniature set of needlenose tweezers into the metal loops alongside the protruding wire. Then tease the sensors out. Maybe pry the tweezers up with a screwdriver. It is one of the easiest maintenance jobs to perform on this car. See john Pirtle’s page for pictorial procedures.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>

HTH, <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Thom1

Oh Brittany,
Sorry to get off topic. Another thought… While you are getting into the brake squeal job; just use new pads. Still use antisqueal. I like the Axxis Metal Masters for low dust, and medium to high performance.
<img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />

Brittany Chen Li

Thanks for the brake pad info. I'll try those pads are they expensive? when I looked the disk and the pads looked glazed over? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Thom1

Hi Brittany,

The Axxis pads are very reasonable for the performance level. The best thing is the low dust output. 928 Specialists guit selling them for a while. I got mine from a Virginia based performance supplier. I can look for that receipt. Maybe one of the big 3 would have them. Let me know if you can't find them.

Did you try tightening down those 2 nuts? <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Brittany Chen Li

Not yet <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" /> I had to edit a lot of photos for work <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" /> and color correct a ton of shots that had bad light during a photo shot we were on. I had my hand full of off color beutiful girls today. Okay No Jokes. I'll have time this weekend I hope. I'll check back here Monday Thanks Again Brittany Chen Li <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Thom1

Hi Brittany,

I just spoke with Jeannie at 928 Specialists. Most of her suppliers have quit getting the Axxis brakes. However, she has found someone she can place an order with. I did not ask how long it would take to get the order in. If you want, give her a call at: 828-766-9280. Be sure to specify the Axxis brand. Prices are outstandingly good: ~$33 or 29 per axle. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Brittany Chen Li

Thanks THOM for the time you took to do that for me. You are very kind I will call to order them. thats a Great price. Here's to team work! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> Britt

Thom1

Hi Britt,

If you only want to tighten the gap at the trailing edge of the rear hatch, you may just need to remove all latch shims, and side bumpers. Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the lower latch section, slide them down as far as you can, and still get the interior release to work. Tighten bolts. Reinstall side bumpers.

Did you try tightening those nuts to get your rear wipers working again?

I finally got my rear hatch adjusted properly.

Some history: The PO(Previous Owner) and I tried shims on the upper and lower latch mechanisms. That worked sometimes for a while. I notched out some metal to move the lower latch mechanism farther to the rear. I could never get the motorized release to work for long. My upper latch portion had stress cracks in it. It finally broke into two parts.

Solution: I obtained a new upper latch. Removed all latch shims. Removed the 2 rubber side wedges. I put my old lock cylinder in the new upper latch.

*I pushed the upper latch into the lower latch by hand, and covered it with a heavy towel. I pulled the interior release ****, and the upper section did not jump out of the lower section. I loosened the 2 10mm bolts that hold the lower section. I slid the lower section up or down, and retightened the bolts.

I went back to the * item several times, and repeated those steps until the upper section hopped out of the lower section. I reinstalled the upper latch. It still worked with the interior release mechanism. I then installed the side rubber bumpers loosely. I pushed the hatch closed slowly, and let the rubber bumpers settle. I tightened the bumper bolts. Now the hatch release works every time. The alignment is even much tighter now.


The other idea that I tried for keeping the automatic release working was putting a slim plastic shim (like a cutout of a plastic radiator fluid container) on the top of the trailing edge lower latch striking surface. This worked but was unnecessary after I got through the final adjustments.

Let me know if you need more details.
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />