Mike Simard

I havent been succsesful in pulling that plunger out with pliers. Maybe you need "Mole grips" as mentioned in Bill's article

David L. Lutz

Bill,

Thanks this is great info.

Very helpful

Jim bailey - 928 International

I too found it unwilling to come apart...

Bill Ball

Errka mentioned the 85MY documents. Here's a composite from that just for completeness. I haven't taken one apart either. We were planning on doing that for Dennis's motor, but the lifters were so full of copper particles from just looking at the oil that drained from them that we decided to go with new ones.

Kevin Johnson

Thanks, Bill. That is almost identical to the Suzuki lifter. The INA website is probably showing the latest wrinkle.

Kevin Johnson

I didn't say it was easy popping out the inner part. That's why I wore heavy leather gloves. You also have to pull directly apart -- linearly -- lest the close tolerances of the walls absorb too much of that force vector.

There is probably a pinvise of sorts available such as might be used to extract large locating dowels from a block. Hook that up with a slide hammer. There are some small ones used for extracting input shaft bearings from crank snouts.

Vilhuer

Valve springs should have been in correct adjustment from factory. When valves wear springs will lift them higher. This will help lifters workload, not make it harder. So its probably not cause for noise.

Whenever valves or heads are machined valve springs must be adjusted to correct height. WSM has instructions how this is done. Few extra factory parts are needed to make it.

David L. Lutz

Well is would seem that after reading the doc. that Bill posted the lifter definately has a spring that would keep the lifter in contact with the cam lobe. (compensate for play) Therefore I would have to deduct that my tapping noise could be from the lifters due to dead or stuck springs.

It is very interesting that today I checked for bent valves and from that test none are bent. I filled the intake and exhaust side with parts cleaner (fluid) and watched from underneath the head for leakage at the valves and all were competely dry!

So even with the timing belt failure (at idle) I wouldn't think that a valve struck a lifter too hard and damaged it. Therefore NOT the cause for the loud tapping noise.

Still have not got a lifter apart, but am working on it.

Kevin Johnson

Could be that someone installed part 4 upside down in all the lifters. It appears that the space when reversed is large enough to encompass the free length of the spring.

Mike Simard

Ha! Preserved for posterity. Try deleting that

David, do you think a new set of tappets would provide a warm feeling? Roger at 928sRus has been helping me find some hard to find tappets lately and may have something for you.
Besides, if we had used all the time spent chin scratching on this thread doing something like mowing lawns or gigalo services you could have made enough money to buy a set.

David L. Lutz

Well Mike you have a good point and believe it or not this option was dancing around in my head more today than ever. Similar to the Torque Tube, converter, and many other items I am doing just to know they are 100%.

However, I do spend many hours searching and reading here are just didn't find much in the way of lifter info. Lots of folks have lifter noise, but seem to shoot in the dark to fix it. So in an effort to help myself and others that have to be in this mess at sometime or another at least we are putting some info on the board to aid someone to that decision of 32 X $$ = $$$.$$ or just reinstall and put your head between your legs and pray!

If Roger is following along, I ask him to let me know what the price is for 32 new ones? (good deal of course)

Thanks to all for your time and posts. I will be sure and let all know the conclusion.

David L. Lutz

Lifters apart!!!!

Here is the key. Tap the lifter on its edge to remove as much oil as you can and at the same time pump the button with a magnet. It will act as a pump shooting oil out the inlet hole.

Once you think all the oil is out (which it will not be) , the button should move freely (but with no spring) Push the button in all the way and then bang (very hard) the open end of the lifter down flat on a table using a couple of ply of shop towel or something as cushion. Then look at the button. It should be very extended or almost out (if it didn't fall out) Once you see it extended (may take a couple of bangs, and be sure the button is pushed all the way in before you bang the table) then you can easily pull it on out with your pliers.

Once out:

Release the oil pressure behind the little ball by using a pick to push the ball a little (check its action) and at the same time squeeze the piston together with your fingers and you will get a shot of oil from the ***** hole. Then its free and guess what "There is now very nice spring action.

After I cleaned the parts per Bill's post above, reinstalled the piston (very easy, just slide it back in) the button acted as it should with very nice spring.

I am now working my way checking all the lifters.

Mike Simard

That really does work! Forget the Mole grips, once the oil is out a good slap knocks that plunger assembly right out.
thanks David.

David L. Lutz

Thanks Mike,


Now the final question. Once we have them apart and cleaned, back together and they have the good spring action, I would have to "assume" the are good to go and we don't need new ones??

All comments welcome...

bwoyat

Cool! Thanks for the tip! I'm in the middle of pulling all my valves right now and was wondering how to clean those lifers? Mine were also making a tapping noise but thought it could be related to the check valve or the fuel injectors clicking away? I'll give your method a try.

When it comes time to reinstalling do you need to prefill the lifters with oil?