I can't seem to get the middle timing belt cover off the front of the engine. Maybe I'm just being too careful but it seems like the crank pulley is too big, I'm afraid I'm going to crack the cover trying to get it to fit around the pulley.
Does this look like a stock diameter pulley?



Also the wire coming from the front harness section that I assume is the switch feed to engage the AC clutch has what I thought should have been a connector but after wiping the grease from it it doesn't look like it comes apart. Is this correct?

 

It's been a few years, but I'm pretty sure the crank pulleys and harmonic balancer need to come off to remove the center TB cover.

Jim

 

exactly as Jim said - I remmeber I promised to send you the Pirtles doc.
Going to email now 8>)

 

Jim is right. You have to remove the pulley's first. You will need a flywheel lock or some way to lock the engine and a long bar with a 27 MM socket. A 3/4 drive set works well here. When re-assembling the bolt holding the damper should be torqued to about 256 lb lbs. The number is in the book. Harbor Freight makes a cheap 3/4 drive torque wrench that works well for this job.

The plug you circled on the harness to the A/C clutch does come apart. It just takes a pretty good pull. If it breaks you can alway substitute in a better connector.

Here is a link to the things not to do.

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...elt_-78-84.htm

Good luck

 

Thanks guys, especially Roger for the doc. printing now!

 

That's a dirty engine! You gonna clean it up while it's apart? Any idea where it's leaking from (or is it just everywhere)?

 

Definitely going to clean it and stop the bleeding.

The oil is coming from numerous places, primarily from the filler tube, also it came from a couple of loose plugs on the body of the now removed supercharger, the dipstick tube where it had been modded for the supercharger oil return, oil pan gasket, beyond that it's hard to tell until I get it cleaned up. What's amazing is when I'd check the oil level it really didn't look like it lost much.

 

Just to make it clear - the plastic connector-looking thing is actually just a plastic cover that protects a regular spade connector.

One of the wires going into it has a spade connector on the end, and it'll pull out of the plastic housing.

 

Oh.. and the center cover - if memory serves me, its also helpful to loosen the power steering pump console - two 13mm (m8) and one 17mm (m10) headed-bolt.. then pull it forwards to make a bit more space around the oil pump gear.

 

Thanks xlot! that makes sense, I was looking for a split point in the middle, I didn't think to look for one end to reveal the secret! Its the damn oil all over everything that's making it hard to see just what is what. I can't wait to get it all cleaned up!

As to the power steering console...yep, took it off already

 

Take a couple of cans of Brake Cleaner to it, NOT carb cleaner, and spray it off. You should be able to work easier that way.

 

If you are working with brake clean mask and do it outside. My lungs are still reacting to some Brake Clean I used to find an oil leak and that was 18 months ago.

As far as the oil be sure to change the front seal. i did not with the last belt job and had to go back in and do it over. Also consider rebuilding the smog pump bearings. The pump is tough to change and you have access now.

 

Diameter might be same as stock but pulley isn't.

 

Just curious why you wouldn't use Carb/Choke Cleaner. I really loosens up the hard grime and dries fairly fast. I use it all the time as well as Engine Cleaner.

 

Will do, thanks!
I removed the airpump (I'm assuming that's the same thing) and didn't plan on putting it back in since my car has no longer has Cat's. I figure the next owner could put on a more modern version that doesn't require the pump to pass inspection...
Is there any other reason to have the pump there? Something to do with the belts and balance or anything like that?