Jim R.

Mark,

I ran seperate ground wires from each unit to the same ground point for the LC-1 and LMA-3. I don't know if that was overkill or not, but it works perfect.

Edit........

Just listen to Z on this one, he is the man with this stuff!

Jim

Z

That's what I've done most of the time as well. In my car I ran a decent sized wire from the block into the car and grounded all my Inovate stuff and gauges with that.

Tampa 928s

I have everything wired in but am getting some interesting results.
When I went back into the Lm-1 today all the settings were defaulted. I changed them yesterday, do you have to match up the Lm-1 data and Lm-3 Data exactly which I have "again".
I set Rpm's for 4/4 and the motor shows 9,300 at idle a touch fast I do say.
Boost at idle shows 1.4 which it should read 18-20 vacuum.
I find the manual very confusing
Do I need to turn on the Lm-1 every time I run the car or will the wide band receive power if it was turned off.

John Speake

Did you remove the 9v battery ? Page 10 of the LM-1 manual states that LM-1, and hence the WB sensor should be powered from a 12v source that is live only when the engine is running. The best place for that is the fuel pump supply, which normally powers the stock O2 sensor. This will only be live onve the engine is turning.

Where have you wired the LM-1 12 v to ?

hacker-pschorr

Try sugarlips

Tampa 928s

I have taken the 12v feed from the unused relay XV from using a tap. This is the same location but different pin as the Rpm signal. It switches to 12v when on, Not sure about the 9 volt battery being removed but maybe once it is set-up to power the WB that maybe the reason.
Who or what is sweet lips

Tampa 928s

Everything seems to be working but the readouts on Rpm's are way off along with the Maf and boost, Rpm's set it for 4 cyl 4 stoke as directed do to two distributors. It must have to do with set-up because the gauges are working on the logworks2.

Tampa 928s

I got the Maf to work I removed the ground from the Channel 2 negative.

But I can’t get the Rpm’s to work correctly got it to show 430 Rpms at idle, It is set for 8 Cyl, 4-stroke, I reentered it as 4 Cyl 4-stroke, and it shows 220 Rpm’s

Go figure!

Tampa 928s

I got everything up and running but still am experiencing a Maf reading issue.
I am not sure if this is the correct wires to tap into although I believe these are the correct ones. I tried hooking the Signal and ground to channel 2 and the reading was low , I then hooked the Signal to Chan 2 and ground to earth ground via the LM-3 got the signal voltage up. But even with that it does not follow over 2 volts. All the A/F readings Inj duty are fine so I know its working.
The attached log is not good, done before the changes of the set-up but gives you an idea.

I need one clarification on the Maf signal I had it set to Channel two = 5-volts.

One wire connected from pin 7 Positive to channel 2 positive from the Lh controller

Other wire from pin 6 Negative to channel 2 negative from the Lh controller.

I built a voltage divider net work.

To trouble shoot I went around the voltage divider network and went in direct to channel two still nothing. I tried reversing the Positive and negative and still no reading. I am not sure of what my base line reading should be but it seems like the reading was 2.3 at idle.

I can assume that the reference ground is the chassis ground not the Maf reference ground or I am tapping into the incorrect wires..

John Speake

You're correct to use pin 6 LH as your -ve MAF input, and pin 7 LH as your MAF +ve input.

The readings at idle should be around 2.6v The reading with ignition on, but engine stopped will be around 1.8-2.0v but i this is quite variable.

Tampa 928s

John,

Even with full throttle it stays about the same voltage.
Does it need just the signal wire to the Lm-3 channel input or use both 6 & 7 to the channel input + & -. I could ground the negative wire to the Lm-3 ground pin. I tried both ways and still not getting this correct.
Should I not be seeing 5.2 volts at Full boost and WOT?

The good news the shark tuner will be here in a week along with Tim. I just want to make sure everything is correct and not having equipment issues before we tune.

I do notice a quick skip while cruising in 3rd gear very random but have not logged it yet. I wonder if this could be caused by tapping into the Maf signals?
I am using a resistor network to drop the voltage. For now channel two is set for 0 = 0 Volts /
5= 5 Volts.

SMTCapeCod

Man, I was trying to get some folks using widebands a looong time ago, seemed only a few would hear of it.
Someday folks will use the EGT route on some of these radical cars, too.
Don't let the wideband sensor sit for too long, some of them get a little sketchy if they aren't cycled. Or at least they did when I had my VR4.

John Speake

You could try not using the MAF ground from pin 6 LH, just the signal from pin 7. And rely on the other system grounds you already have.

I don't understand 5v = 5v if you have a divider in there.....

The 2.6v at idle will move progressively higher as the rpm and boost rise. It isn't a linear law, so will flatten out the rate of rise at the high end. But just blipping the throttle with car in neutral should give an easilly seen increase of MAF voltage.

You can always log MAF voltage with the SharkTuner.... plus inj duty cycle, rpm , etc.

John Speake

How do you get 5v = 5v when you have a resisitive attenuator in the circuit ?