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CLUTCH ALMOST REMOVED

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Old 03-24-2003, 08:09 PM
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Chris Magid
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Post CLUTCH ALMOST REMOVED

I am doing a clutch removal on my dead 84 928s. The whole package was a week old when I totalled the car...and I want the parts...discs and intermediate plate for my other 928...in need of help.

I have followed the workshop manuals....and have the clutch package exposed with the sleeve that lead to transmission via torque tube pulled back.

NOW WHAT!!!

Manual mentions punching some dowels through the clutch pack...twoards the flywheel. They really don't want to budge. Also...rotating the clutch package to get at the dowels is really tough....lots of resistance...LOTS....is that normal? The front of my engine was slightly damaged in the wreck? Could this factor in?

Anyway would appreciate a heads up on the best way to drop the clutch pack. Could really use some details. Manuals are a bit unclear...and this clutch is certainly much different that the RX7s I am used to.

Unsure of what it means by:

Disconnect release lever at ball stud? Not sure I see that? Do they mean the clutch fork???

The manual also mentions fabricating some sort of wire bracket to use underneath the mounting bolt heads before loosening. Any pointers?

Sorry for all the questions.

Chris Magid
1984 928s x2
Old 03-24-2003, 11:33 PM
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Paul D
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Chris - I'll give it a whirl..
Dowels - You'll need a steel punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than the dowel itself and a hammer (safety glasses won't hurt either). Keep tapping, they will move.
To turn the clutch you will need a large socket to fit over your front crank pulley bolt and a long rachet (or breaker bar) to rotate the crankshaft (clockwise ONLY). Maybe you'll need to remove some damaged items up front that may be making it difficult to manually rotate the crank. The release lever (AKA clutch fork) pivots on the ball stud (located at the driver side top of the bell housing). You may need a long screwdriver to remove the upper release arm socket from the ball stud. You can see it from the topside by completely removing the air box. The release arm should be very loose at this point. I think the wire brackets are placed under the guide posts before unbolting the clutch from the flywheel so that the pressure plate will not fully extend. This will allow you to remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fingers without preloading the pressure plate. Once the bolts have all been removed, slide the short shaft rearward and get ready to catch 35Lbs of clutch parts (it may even be heavier). Good Luck!
Old 03-25-2003, 10:37 AM
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JE928Sx4.
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Chris,

You don't need to punch the dowels back to remove the clutch pack. In fact I found them helpful in removal and installing where they are. You do need to manufacture the shims. A large gauge wire bent in a U shape will work fine. Also, a flywheel wrench makes easy work of moving the flywheel. It's like a prybar with an arm on it that leats you grab the teeth of the flywheel (actually on the intermediate plate) and rotate the motor. With you head at the front of the car and feat to the rear you will move the flywheel from right to left. As you unbolt the 6 bolts holding the shims will be pinched in the clutch pack. Pull the pilot shaft back. The dowels are all that is holding the clutch pack on to the flywheel now. Pull the pack back about 1/2 inch and it should drop on you face if it's in the way. :-) See: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert</a> and revire the clutch removal page.
Old 03-25-2003, 11:42 AM
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Chris Magid
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Where do I put the bent wire shims?

Chris
Old 03-25-2003, 05:11 PM
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mark kibort
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[I thought at that point, you just un screw the flywheel bolts and (swear and bang) and then the entire package drops down. the harder part is putting it all back, and thats where those little wire shims come into play.
kind of hard to remember. What I do remember, was easy to remove, kind of hard to install.

I do remember a long pri bar used to pull that arm off the ball that is fixed to the bell housing.

MK

QUOTE]Originally posted by Chris Magid:
<strong>I am doing a clutch removal on my dead 84 928s. The whole package was a week old when I totalled the car...and I want the parts...discs and intermediate plate for my other 928...in need of help.

I have followed the workshop manuals....and have the clutch package exposed with the sleeve that lead to transmission via torque tube pulled back.

NOW WHAT!!!

Manual mentions punching some dowels through the clutch pack...twoards the flywheel. They really don't want to budge. Also...rotating the clutch package to get at the dowels is really tough....lots of resistance...LOTS....is that normal? The front of my engine was slightly damaged in the wreck? Could this factor in?

Anyway would appreciate a heads up on the best way to drop the clutch pack. Could really use some details. Manuals are a bit unclear...and this clutch is certainly much different that the RX7s I am used to.

Unsure of what it means by:

Disconnect release lever at ball stud? Not sure I see that? Do they mean the clutch fork???

The manual also mentions fabricating some sort of wire bracket to use underneath the mounting bolt heads before loosening. Any pointers?

Sorry for all the questions.

Chris Magid
1984 928s x2</strong>[/QUOTE]
Old 03-25-2003, 05:51 PM
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JE928Sx4.
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You can see the wire shim in this picture where the pin (yes that rusty thing) is going through the aluminum housing, you can see the copper wire pinched between them. This is in the area of the upper left quadrant of the picture, but near the lower right corner of that quadrant (why yes, you would be correct in calling that just a bit above and left of center of the picture).
:-)

<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert/CJ04.JPG" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert/CJ04.JPG</a>



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