Installing new Hatch lock parts, Need help getting them to work
02-21-2008, 08:44 PM
#31
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ive got the two latch parts together and the thing is opening and closing to my liking. I still have questions about this #26 fuse in question but i will post on another thread as i believe its affecting my interior lights.
Also when i hit the hatch release it still makes an audible pop but it isnt as loud, but the issue now is that the lid itself dosent pop up so i have to pull up on the hatch to release it from the lower latch where i can then pull it up. Perhaps it just needs to be broken in a bit or perhaps it still needs some adjusting. If you have a thought about it, let me know.
Also when i hit the hatch release it still makes an audible pop but it isnt as loud, but the issue now is that the lid itself dosent pop up so i have to pull up on the hatch to release it from the lower latch where i can then pull it up. Perhaps it just needs to be broken in a bit or perhaps it still needs some adjusting. If you have a thought about it, let me know.
02-24-2008, 10:17 AM
#32
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While looking for a different post, I saw this, and since I still have a hatch latch problem, I looked into this post...
While this is really obvious to me, you may not have realized this??? Early on, you mentioned the interior light staying on.... Doors open or closed?
>1. Have you checked the switch on the light itself, to see if it has been switched to on always? My lights have three positions; off, on, and door open on.... And, if the three wires at the switch are properly positioned?
>2. if the light still stays on, with the proper switch position in place, I wonder if a wire is crossed, or a door plunger switch has become internally broken, where it is now a contact at all times? Am I explaining myself well enough?
You had mentioned disconnecting a wire, early on, and the auto open switch at the door sill [?] not functioning, after the wire to the light was disconnected.... Nitpicky little things we/I sometimes forget we've done, and need to remember..... HTH....
I use Tony Euganeo, in PA., for my P-car locksmith services. He told me that interchanging the keys from alarm to non-alarm hatch locks isn't possible, as the keys are physically different lengths, and you cannot push an alarm key length through the end of the shorter non alarm lock body, so the key is located at it's location shoulder, and the non alarm key isn't long enough to engauge all the tumblers in an alarm body....... Am I being totally redundant here????
While this is really obvious to me, you may not have realized this??? Early on, you mentioned the interior light staying on.... Doors open or closed?
>1. Have you checked the switch on the light itself, to see if it has been switched to on always? My lights have three positions; off, on, and door open on.... And, if the three wires at the switch are properly positioned?
>2. if the light still stays on, with the proper switch position in place, I wonder if a wire is crossed, or a door plunger switch has become internally broken, where it is now a contact at all times? Am I explaining myself well enough?
You had mentioned disconnecting a wire, early on, and the auto open switch at the door sill [?] not functioning, after the wire to the light was disconnected.... Nitpicky little things we/I sometimes forget we've done, and need to remember..... HTH....
I use Tony Euganeo, in PA., for my P-car locksmith services. He told me that interchanging the keys from alarm to non-alarm hatch locks isn't possible, as the keys are physically different lengths, and you cannot push an alarm key length through the end of the shorter non alarm lock body, so the key is located at it's location shoulder, and the non alarm key isn't long enough to engauge all the tumblers in an alarm body....... Am I being totally redundant here????
02-24-2008, 08:29 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
While looking for a different post, I saw this, and since I still have a hatch latch problem, I looked into this post...
While this is really obvious to me, you may not have realized this??? Early on, you mentioned the interior light staying on.... Doors open or closed?
>1. Have you checked the switch on the light itself, to see if it has been switched to on always? My lights have three positions; off, on, and door open on.... And, if the three wires at the switch are properly positioned?
>2. if the light still stays on, with the proper switch position in place, I wonder if a wire is crossed, or a door plunger switch has become internally broken, where it is now a contact at all times? Am I explaining myself well enough?
You had mentioned disconnecting a wire, early on, and the auto open switch at the door sill [?] not functioning, after the wire to the light was disconnected.... Nitpicky little things we/I sometimes forget we've done, and need to remember..... HTH....
I use Tony Euganeo, in PA., for my P-car locksmith services. He told me that interchanging the keys from alarm to non-alarm hatch locks isn't possible, as the keys are physically different lengths, and you cannot push an alarm key length through the end of the shorter non alarm lock body, so the key is located at it's location shoulder, and the non alarm key isn't long enough to engauge all the tumblers in an alarm body....... Am I being totally redundant here????
While this is really obvious to me, you may not have realized this??? Early on, you mentioned the interior light staying on.... Doors open or closed?
>1. Have you checked the switch on the light itself, to see if it has been switched to on always? My lights have three positions; off, on, and door open on.... And, if the three wires at the switch are properly positioned?
>2. if the light still stays on, with the proper switch position in place, I wonder if a wire is crossed, or a door plunger switch has become internally broken, where it is now a contact at all times? Am I explaining myself well enough?
You had mentioned disconnecting a wire, early on, and the auto open switch at the door sill [?] not functioning, after the wire to the light was disconnected.... Nitpicky little things we/I sometimes forget we've done, and need to remember..... HTH....
I use Tony Euganeo, in PA., for my P-car locksmith services. He told me that interchanging the keys from alarm to non-alarm hatch locks isn't possible, as the keys are physically different lengths, and you cannot push an alarm key length through the end of the shorter non alarm lock body, so the key is located at it's location shoulder, and the non alarm key isn't long enough to engauge all the tumblers in an alarm body....... Am I being totally redundant here????
The problem i was having was that the interior lights would stay on with doors closed and even when driving. I quickly traced this to the small contact that i now realized when installing the hatch lock lower thats its screwed into that. I just disconnected that little switch to deavtivate the lights coming on when the hatch is open, but also eliminate my lights staying on problem
For whatever reason when i reinstalled all these new parts all my interior lights come on and go off when they are supposed to. So i theorize that the issue was just the switch and now that its back in and tight and cleaned up and not covered in grease all is well and everything works in that department.
02-24-2008, 09:00 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
its not perfect, its functioning so i am happy. I reinstalled my front bumper cover and may later give the hatch more attention.
When i hit the electronic release the hatch dosent pop up as i would like. It releases but i have to pull up on the hatch fairly hard to lift the thing up. So that does need some adjustment but not yet. I can live with it for now.
When i hit the electronic release the hatch dosent pop up as i would like. It releases but i have to pull up on the hatch fairly hard to lift the thing up. So that does need some adjustment but not yet. I can live with it for now.
02-24-2008, 09:47 PM
#36
Ryan,
When the hatch releases you can hear it "pop", however, it does not start to fully open by itself, you have to manually raise it until the gas struts get the right lever effect to fully raise the hatch. As you stated the hatch is very heavy.
From what you are describing you may need new gas struts.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
When the hatch releases you can hear it "pop", however, it does not start to fully open by itself, you have to manually raise it until the gas struts get the right lever effect to fully raise the hatch. As you stated the hatch is very heavy.
From what you are describing you may need new gas struts.
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto
02-25-2008, 12:42 AM
#37
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
no, The hatch used to pop up before the install when i used the key. I think something is to tight that it gets caught up on something
02-25-2008, 01:30 PM
#38
I use Tony Euganeo, in PA., for my P-car locksmith services. He told me that interchanging the keys from alarm to non-alarm hatch locks isn't possible, as the keys are physically different lengths, and you cannot push an alarm key length through the end of the shorter non alarm lock body, so the key is located at it's location shoulder, and the non alarm key isn't long enough to engauge all the tumblers in an alarm body....... Am I being totally redundant here????
Mike
02-25-2008, 01:38 PM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Alan pointed out that since you cant disable the alarm system (which to my knowledge always goes off if you open doors without firs deactivating it) with the key in the new non-alarm version, that trying to unlock the rear hatch without first opening the drivers door would result in the alarm going off. So if i have to unlock the drivers door to disable the alarm, i am going to just open the door and then pop the electronic hatch release. So a key really is still not necessary for me in this case. I will miss being able to lock and unlock the car from the hatch when i have groceries and stuff, but i was thinking of getting a remote unlocking system but never did because i hate the remotes that those companies produce.
Come to think of it i am glad that the hatch release is on both driver and passenger side now. Thats now somewhat more convenient if i cant open the hatch from the hatch itself now. (At least not until i find an alarm version someplace)
Come to think of it i am glad that the hatch release is on both driver and passenger side now. Thats now somewhat more convenient if i cant open the hatch from the hatch itself now. (At least not until i find an alarm version someplace)
02-25-2008, 07:03 PM
#40
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QUOTE=mj1pate;5145359] Taking in consideration what you are mentioning Brett, do you know of a locksmith who can provide or carve a lock key from a blank, if he sent the hatch lock? In other words, can the locksmith determine the key shape, without opening the lock tumblers (which involves a fair amount of drilling labor). Thanks....[/QUOTE]
Hi Mike,
I do not know how Tony does his work.... I also have bought a used non-alarm hatch lock. I've asked Tony if he would be able to make me a key to fit this lock, and he said yes. My cost would be $85, for the first key. I haven't asked him about a spare key...My electric hatch opener switches are all I've been able to use, to make my hatch open, since I got Rosy in '01.
Too much other butchering has gone on before I owned her, so the alarm doesn't work anyway.
This cost, plus the purchase price of the hatch lock, for me, is less than the cost of the one Ryan bought..... But, maybe after postage back and forth, it'll be the same? Or close? I'll be finding out soon....
Tony I trust. He has cut four keys for Rosy, all of them fit and worked first time. Seems like all the 356 owners trust him as well, he always seemed to be doing a whole bunch of key work, whenever he came to the Stoddard's meet... Seems to be Porsche oriented, easy to talk to, and knowledgeable about locksmithing...
Need contact info? Send offline, and I'll get it to you. Or, if enough interest, and permission from Randy is sent, I'll post it. I don't wish to step on any toes.....
Hi Mike,
I do not know how Tony does his work.... I also have bought a used non-alarm hatch lock. I've asked Tony if he would be able to make me a key to fit this lock, and he said yes. My cost would be $85, for the first key. I haven't asked him about a spare key...My electric hatch opener switches are all I've been able to use, to make my hatch open, since I got Rosy in '01.
Too much other butchering has gone on before I owned her, so the alarm doesn't work anyway.
This cost, plus the purchase price of the hatch lock, for me, is less than the cost of the one Ryan bought..... But, maybe after postage back and forth, it'll be the same? Or close? I'll be finding out soon....
Tony I trust. He has cut four keys for Rosy, all of them fit and worked first time. Seems like all the 356 owners trust him as well, he always seemed to be doing a whole bunch of key work, whenever he came to the Stoddard's meet... Seems to be Porsche oriented, easy to talk to, and knowledgeable about locksmithing...
Need contact info? Send offline, and I'll get it to you. Or, if enough interest, and permission from Randy is sent, I'll post it. I don't wish to step on any toes.....
04-06-2010, 03:30 PM
#41
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New here and trying to help a friend, will a non alarm hatch work on a car that came with an alarm setup? Obviously is there a price difference, but is their significant issues when trying to use one or the other?
Thanks for any help in advance!
Thanks for any help in advance!
04-08-2010, 09:52 AM
#42
Instructor
I recently replaced the hatch receiver on the S4 and now the motor just keeps running until I release the electric hatch release. This sounds like I have messed up the ability of the motor to park the cam in the right place. I have a recollection that the lever came loose from the motor, is it possible that I put it back on incorrectly? Regards Paul
04-08-2010, 10:05 AM
#43
Paul,
IIRC it is impossible to install the arm incorrectly otherwise the arm would not line up with the motor's driver crank spherical ended bolt and hatch latching mechanism driven crank spherical ended bolt.
I would suggest you need to remove the motor and cleanup the contacts in the "electrical parking" driver crank to get the motor to correctly park, as you should only need to pull up the electrical hatch release button and then let it go and the crank should only cycle one and reset.
A couple of day ago I posted a full set up procedure for the hatch latching mechanism which maybe useful to get your system working correctly after you have carried out the maintenance on the electrical parking mechanism.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
IIRC it is impossible to install the arm incorrectly otherwise the arm would not line up with the motor's driver crank spherical ended bolt and hatch latching mechanism driven crank spherical ended bolt.
I would suggest you need to remove the motor and cleanup the contacts in the "electrical parking" driver crank to get the motor to correctly park, as you should only need to pull up the electrical hatch release button and then let it go and the crank should only cycle one and reset.
A couple of day ago I posted a full set up procedure for the hatch latching mechanism which maybe useful to get your system working correctly after you have carried out the maintenance on the electrical parking mechanism.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
04-08-2010, 11:11 AM
#44
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New here and trying to help a friend, will a non alarm hatch work on a car that came with an alarm setup? Obviously is there a price difference, but is their significant issues when trying to use one or the other?
Thanks for any help in advance!
? Anyone have any ideas? ^
Thanks for any help in advance!
? Anyone have any ideas? ^
04-08-2010, 02:46 PM
#45
New here and trying to help a friend, will a non alarm hatch work on a car that came with an alarm setup? Obviously is there a price difference, but is their significant issues when trying to use one or the other?
Thanks for any help in advance!
? Anyone have any ideas? ^
Thanks for any help in advance!
? Anyone have any ideas? ^
I'm not trying to be an ***, but just get you on the right track, as you probably won't get any replies (or respect) here by skipping doing a little research on the wealth of info that is already posted here before asking a question. Try re-reading all posts in this thread and then use the search function...the answer is right at your fingertips, as long as you can read. 