Calipers
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 63
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From: St. Louis
Calipers
Hope you can help. The other day I was driving and after I left a stop light it felt like the calipers were still gripping the rotors. Eventually it let go, but has happened since. The brake peddle comes up, but the calipers are still holding the rotors.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey Brian,
Sounds like its time for a caliper rebuild. Any of the BIG3 should be able to supply you with the parts you need to rebuild them.
Maybe someone has a tech post somewhere to guide you through the process.
Sounds like its time for a caliper rebuild. Any of the BIG3 should be able to supply you with the parts you need to rebuild them.
Maybe someone has a tech post somewhere to guide you through the process.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,469
Likes: 13
From: Ball Ground, GA
Some possibilities:
Sticking caliper - This will usually be only one caliper, which can be identified by feeling of the wheels after a run. If one is hotter than the others, that is probably the bad one. You should rebuild or repace the calipers and pads in pairs.
Bad brake hose - It is not unknown for a flexible brake hose to swell so that pressurized fluid will pass thru to the caliper, but will be kept under pressure by the swollen hose, holding the brake on. This will also usually be a single wheel, but again, the hoses should be replaced either in pairs or altogether.
Misadjusted brake pedal - If the brake pedal push rod is too long, it can hold the cups in the master cylinder over the compensation port. This is a small hole in the cylinder wall that should allow hot brake fluid to flow back into the reservoir when the pedal is completely released. This will usually be either two wheels or all wheels.
Bad master cylinder - Possible but not likely for a master cylinder to hold the brakes on. This will be all wheels.
Bad brake booster - There have been several cases reported of the booster going bad and self-applying the brakes. This will be all wheels.
Determine which wheels are hot from the brakes being held on.
If all wheels are hot, check the brake pedal and make sure that there is a bit of free play in the push rod.
If the pedal rod is adjusted correctly, it would be possible to check the brake booster by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line from the brake booster. If you do this, drive the car VERY cautiously - remember that you will have no boost, and will have to press the brake pedal harder to get the normal stopping power. Do this at your own risk!! If the problem disapppears, replace the booster.
If the problem reoccurs, it may be the master cylinder.
You might consider taking the car to a good brake shop. I don't have too high an opinion of the franchise operations, but that is your call.
Don't take any chances with the brakes.
Sticking caliper - This will usually be only one caliper, which can be identified by feeling of the wheels after a run. If one is hotter than the others, that is probably the bad one. You should rebuild or repace the calipers and pads in pairs.
Bad brake hose - It is not unknown for a flexible brake hose to swell so that pressurized fluid will pass thru to the caliper, but will be kept under pressure by the swollen hose, holding the brake on. This will also usually be a single wheel, but again, the hoses should be replaced either in pairs or altogether.
Misadjusted brake pedal - If the brake pedal push rod is too long, it can hold the cups in the master cylinder over the compensation port. This is a small hole in the cylinder wall that should allow hot brake fluid to flow back into the reservoir when the pedal is completely released. This will usually be either two wheels or all wheels.
Bad master cylinder - Possible but not likely for a master cylinder to hold the brakes on. This will be all wheels.
Bad brake booster - There have been several cases reported of the booster going bad and self-applying the brakes. This will be all wheels.
Determine which wheels are hot from the brakes being held on.
If all wheels are hot, check the brake pedal and make sure that there is a bit of free play in the push rod.
If the pedal rod is adjusted correctly, it would be possible to check the brake booster by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line from the brake booster. If you do this, drive the car VERY cautiously - remember that you will have no boost, and will have to press the brake pedal harder to get the normal stopping power. Do this at your own risk!! If the problem disapppears, replace the booster.
If the problem reoccurs, it may be the master cylinder.
You might consider taking the car to a good brake shop. I don't have too high an opinion of the franchise operations, but that is your call.
Don't take any chances with the brakes.
