elevating 928s for service
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
elevating 928s for service
This thread is a bit overdue and is for the sake of those who aren't aware of the challenges in hoisting 928s high enough to work under them, and can't manage to install a high lift. The following is a combination that I found to be safe and effective:
1) VERY high lifting floor jack, with a low unlifted profile. Shop around as I found that combination to be rare; I found myself using two floor jacks, one very high lift and one very low profile that I used in different stages of lifting.
2) Ken's (Porken's) liftbars. You need two and these are virtually indispensible for safe, quick lifting. One bar is used in conjunction with the floor jack to completely lift a side of the vehicle.
3) Wood blocks: I cut mine from 2x10s, so that each block was made of 4 pieces stacked and screwed together. Each block ended up as 16" long x 11" wide x 6" tall.
I generally use the floor jacks and liftbars to elevate the car high enough to stack 2 sets of blocks under each wheel. You end up with the car standing with each wheel atop 2 wood blocks, with ~ 22 inches ground clearance. I use two lifting motions per side, so that a wood block is added under each wheel with each lifting motion. This enables plenty of room to do most any kind of mechanical work and I don't worry about jack stands collapsing. In the event that the wheels must be unloaded, I raise the car onto jack stands, but still slide a pair of blocks under each wheel, so that the wheels are unloaded with a narrow air gap between the wheels and the blocks...giving a margin of safety...and peace of mind.
Mike
1) VERY high lifting floor jack, with a low unlifted profile. Shop around as I found that combination to be rare; I found myself using two floor jacks, one very high lift and one very low profile that I used in different stages of lifting.
2) Ken's (Porken's) liftbars. You need two and these are virtually indispensible for safe, quick lifting. One bar is used in conjunction with the floor jack to completely lift a side of the vehicle.
3) Wood blocks: I cut mine from 2x10s, so that each block was made of 4 pieces stacked and screwed together. Each block ended up as 16" long x 11" wide x 6" tall.
I generally use the floor jacks and liftbars to elevate the car high enough to stack 2 sets of blocks under each wheel. You end up with the car standing with each wheel atop 2 wood blocks, with ~ 22 inches ground clearance. I use two lifting motions per side, so that a wood block is added under each wheel with each lifting motion. This enables plenty of room to do most any kind of mechanical work and I don't worry about jack stands collapsing. In the event that the wheels must be unloaded, I raise the car onto jack stands, but still slide a pair of blocks under each wheel, so that the wheels are unloaded with a narrow air gap between the wheels and the blocks...giving a margin of safety...and peace of mind.
Mike
#2
Burning Brakes
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I use the lift bars and four sturdy jack stands. Jack stands under the bars near each end.
I leave my floor jack raised almost to the bottom of the car near what ever spot I'm under just as a last chance escape aid
I leave my floor jack raised almost to the bottom of the car near what ever spot I'm under just as a last chance escape aid
#3
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Nice Mike, didn't think of putting blocks under the tires but that is a good idea and offers some peace of mind.
#5
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why are you guys worried about the jack stands? Are these stands unsafe? If you use 3 ton stands, isn't that sufficient? I'm about to do this, so your answers will be most welcome. I have 4 three ton stands, and will use railroad ties as a backup....
#6
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Ed you are going to be fine. I usually pull my wheels off and lay them under the rotors. My biggest problem with the 3 ton stands is getting the car off the ground enough to get the stands under the car on the lift points. After the car is up, I give it my bump test. I bump it pretty darn hard on all four sides to make sure its not going to move. Personally I HATE being under a car even if it is on a full size lift.
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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I'm with you Shark Attack, it scares me to death being under the car. I have 6 ton jack stands and cannot lift the car enough to get all four under it. I like the idea of the 2x10's. I also like Porkens lifts but have not sprung for them yet.
I never thought of this before but, the guys in Cali not only need to "bump" the car to check if the jack stands are good but, they have to worry about tremors and earthquakes.
I never thought of this before but, the guys in Cali not only need to "bump" the car to check if the jack stands are good but, they have to worry about tremors and earthquakes.
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#8
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I have ten jackstands. Pre-928 I had a pair of fancy AC Hydraulics 1500kg stands that are beautifully made, pretty but useless (curved saddle). When I got PorKen's liftbars I bought four Sears Pro 3-ton stands, but spent too much time under the car near the top of those stands' waiting for an earthquake to drop it on me. So I bought four of the HF 6-ton stands. I am normally leery of any potential safety item of HF origin, but I'm impressed with the quality of the stands. The car is rock stable on them and the liftbars.
Even with the bigass stands, I still have another 2-3 stands elsewhere and the jack near wherever I am. Paranoia's a beyotch, but so is getting crushed.
I think Ken's liftbars are the single most useful tool I've bought for the 928, I wish I had them for my bimmerwagen!
Even with the bigass stands, I still have another 2-3 stands elsewhere and the jack near wherever I am. Paranoia's a beyotch, but so is getting crushed.
I think Ken's liftbars are the single most useful tool I've bought for the 928, I wish I had them for my bimmerwagen!
#10
Three Wheelin'
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Mike
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#12
Three Wheelin'
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http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm
#13
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Those quick lifts look great.
How exactly do you lift the car, are there jack points at the front and rear and then you set the metal ends in place once the car is up?
How exactly do you lift the car, are there jack points at the front and rear and then you set the metal ends in place once the car is up?
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The Kwik Lift loks like a clever idea, but the wood blocks take up a lot less room under the car. Tomshark; what kind of operations have you peformed under the car, while the car was on Kwik Lifts?
Mike
Mike
#15
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I looked really closely at the kwiklifts, but until I can fit a 2 post lift into the budget, I'm going with Porken's liftbars and my 6 ton jackstands. The 6 ton stands with some extra support blocks under the car seems pretty safe.
Jim
Jim