DaveW

Simple one.... How do you remove the plastic door sill plates? I can't find it in the workshop manual and I don't want to break them by pulling where I should be pushing.

Cheers
DaveW

V-Fib

If I'm not mistaken, you have to drill out the rivets on each end. New rivets are available from the Big 3.

Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Gretch

Is there something under the sill plates? I noticed that after a service, one of the rivits is missing. I wonder if it was drilled out.

Erik - Denmark

Dave,
What is the 'plastic door sill plate'?
If you mean the horizontal one with '928' at the door steps, it is mounted with plastic fasteners.
If you mean the vertical outside 'skirt' (standard on newer model), I am interested to hear where you buy this for the pre -S4 model

DaveW

Thanks guys, I will get those rivets out this evening. I just wanted to check that there weren't any nasty metal clips under there that were going to snap something.

Gretch, I don't think there's anything under there but I'm still trying to stop a water leak on the drivers door (new seals have cut it down but not stopped it) so as this plate crosses the door lip it's a suspect!

Erik, it's just the 928 plate i'm talking about but I would have thought that breakers yards would have plenty of those 'skirt' pieces. According to the manual they just lever off.

Cheers
DaveW

Tony

Hey Dave

THERE ARE LITTLE NASTY CLIPS UNDER THERE!! i think there are about 4 white clips. You have to drill out or push through the rivet at the aft end...then GENTLY pry up the inside edge(next to the e brake) and work your way back. The inside edge is held down by a series of 5-6 metal clips that grip the plastic sil.
Then you have to either 1) slide the sil back and worth (wiggle) it off
or 2) get a long blade screw driver and a rag(to protect the paint on the door sil), get down on your hands and knees and slide the screw driver under the plastic sil as close to the clips as you can and gingerly pry it up. The goal is to remove the sil with the white clips still attatch to it!! The clips actually SLIDE into the sil witch is why method #1 may work as well.

Odds are either way the darn clips stay in the body and just brake the palstic retaining area on the sil underneath.

Also, at the "2" in 928, underneath there is a plastic pin that presses into a fitting on the body under the sil. Once again, get a rag, screw driver under there and gently pry it up.

AO

Does anyone have a good tip for getting the sills clean under the plates without taking the plates off? How 'bout you concoursers? Someone must have gotten pretty **** out there and figured out a way. Water and compresseed air?

On my Chiffon White 82 it's pretty clean except for under those #$^%@ sill plates. I would rather not monkey around with removing them if possible.

Shane

Dave,

Thanks for posting this one. I have new sill plates in the mail from 928 Specialists in Stainless. My stock ones are cracked and looking rather bad. I'll not be too concerned about saving them, just about getting them off. Thanks for the tips eveyone!

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

DaveW

Thanks for catching me in time Tony! I'll give your methods a try. However I won't be too upset if they break as they are a bit tatty and it would give me an excuse to get new ones.

Shane, I thought that all the stainless steel sill plates were covers that sat on top of the old plastic ones? i would check that out before you remove the plastic ones.

Cheers
Dave

DaveW

That's them off, and it didn't take long. They came off exactly as tony described: remove the rear rivet (I pushed the centre through), Lever up the inner edge near the carpet to release the metal clips, then slide the whole sill outwards off the the white plastic clips. And yeah I did break it around the 928 cutouts! Actually I think the plate was cracked and just came to bits when moved. The transparent insert has also really yellowed with age. I will probably refit stainless sills as Shane is doing.



You can tell nobody has been here for 16 years! There's another couple of pics at:

<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/potw/DaveW928/PhotoAlbum39.html" target="_blank">under the door sills</a>

On a related topic I think I have tracked down the source of my door leak, and it's not the sills. I've just noticed that the leatherette door frame lining that surrounds the door window was not clipped fully into place and was sticking out further than it should. This could be preventing the door seal from seating properly. It's properly in place now so let's see if it leaks tonight.

Cheers
Dave

Randy V

It looks like Paul Jager <a href="http://www.jageng.com" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com</a> has developed a stick-on overlay that cleans up the appearance of that area without having to remove the sill plate:

Tony

OOhhh..DAVE! that shouldnt have broke like that! You should have pried up under the "2" in 928 as well.
To brighten up the clear "928" you can find plastic polish at a hobby store that is used to clear scratches from plastic model windsheilds. It should do the trick here as well. At the hobby store you can also find adhesive color trim pieces in many colors...chrome..red..yellow etc. (i think it is made by MONOKOTE)

You remove the sil, flip it over and lay the sticky side of the colored trim on the "928" then with an exacto knife, trim the excess and push bubbles out. Ive done mine in chrome and in red..on a silver car. I chose the chrome and it highlights the "928" nicely. Someone out ther actually had some low voltage light system to illuminate the "928" logo on the sil.!!