docmirror

Huh? I read post 5, don't see anything about 2/6 rod failure. Oh well, many gave this probable outcome.

I have a crank on the way, and Sterling is going to give me some rods. I've ordered a gasket set, and I'll prolly just need a set of .010 under main and rod bearings. I'm gonna investigate replacing the rings, but I suspect most of the wear in on the cylinder walls. The heads will go out for a valve job, and reseal the valve stems with the seals from my kits.

The engine teardown has started. I'm also going to have the intake and cam covers powder coated. I might have a few other bits coated while I'm at it. I'd like to do something splashy with the belt covers, but I'm not sure what to do about them. Black is pretty boring.

The chassis is going to the paint shop while the engine is out. I'll be getting a new coat of 'guards red' paint, and a few coats of clear over it. Once I get it back, I'm prolly gonna redo my wheels. The only thing left will be to get the stereo working.

Once it's all done, it's going to my daughter for her to use. Hope she doesn't bust up all my work.

docmirror

Did a little work today before the Daytona. It's down to the heads and case. I have a few questions.

1. What is the size and name of the cam cover bolt tool?

2. What do folks do about the sensor wiring that comes apart under the intake? I was gonna use two layers of heatshrink.

3. I broke a bolt in the water xover at the front. It's in the block, is this common?

SeanR

1. 5mm
2. Didn't you pull the harness out from the car? All that is there is the ISV and TPS. Reach in and unhook it, unless you take the intake off. It's a bitch to get back in with it on, but I have small hands.
3. You dumbass.

ROG100

you would not have had any of these problems if it had been an auto 8>)

docmirror

1. 5mm WHAT? It aint a hex, or Torx

2. Not those wires, I mean the ones in the top of the crankcase V. I got the ISV and TPS stuff off after taking the intake loose.

3. Peckerhead.

largecar379

too bad you ordered a crank-----

I could fix you up with a "drilled" one, rods, and 32v pistons already cut for 16V.......


--Russ

docmirror

Russ, yeah too bad. I think you may want a bit more than what I paid for the used crank. PM me with a price any way.

Ed Hughes

It's a 5mm Peckerhead

redpathtribe

??? Say it ain't so Doc!!! I mean, unless I'm missing something here which is entirely possible and more than likely... you are kidding... arent' you??? I mean, I love my daughters too... but a 928??? a GT???? a Guards Red GT?????

soontobered84

Doc, Why didn't you just have YOUR crank rebuilt? Or was the used crank too good a price?

Yeah, I woke up this morning wondering where in the hell I had left my dress shoes. ( Not that I've been known to leave them very many places. I think I was just having a senior moment) Anyway, I was hoping that at some point this week my memory might be jogged, so's I could go get them. LOL

If you have any chance at all to check out my climate controller, I can make it a 2 for 1 trip, and that would be great.

docmirror

Rick, my 16 YO son has driven the car to school quite a lot. He also drives it to friends houses, and musical events. My daughter is just as responsible as my son, and with proper instruction, will be okay.

John - Once a crank has been heated like mine has, it's modulus of elasticity is changed significantly. There are companies that will heat treat it, submerged weld the journal, reheat it, then do the journal grinding and polishing. I can have all that work done for $5-600. I bought a crank for much less, that will likely mic in spec for a used crank. I can then have it polished, and go back with standard bearings and use the plastigauge method to check for clearance.

It's a matter of cost. I can save my crank, but the heat from the seizure on 2/6 can also cause bad cracks in the swings. For my money(less) I'd rather use a crank that has never suffered seizure stress.

RyanPerrella

I would agree thats the best way to go.

5.0L cranks are cheap, no one seems to want them, not a bad thing to have laying around to be honest. What with TBF's on auto's and 2/6 issues on track cars.

ErnestSw

What oil were you using?

soontobered84

Doc,
I wondered if a used crank would be cheaper. I guess now I know. But it could have been done if a used crank couldn't be found.

docmirror

Typically Castrol GTX 10-40. That's what I use for most cars. I think I may have added a fresh quart about two weeks before the track day. My limited understanding of the failure mode is that it's not a lube type issue, but I could be wrong.