comb flap actuator question...
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
comb flap actuator question...
I took the orange vacuum line off the actuator and hooked a Mighty Vac directly to the rubber piece that connects the actuator to the orange vacuum line.
I can pump like crazy on the Mighty Vac and it doesn't move anything and doesn't hold vacuum at all....barely reaches 5 inches of mercury during the rapid pumping but rises to zero immediately upon stopping.
I'm assuming this means the actuator, or at least the diaphragm, is toast and should be replaced. I just want to be sure the Mighty Vac should have been able to cause this particular device to move because moving it by hand requires more force than I imagined these things to need.
The foot well actuator works fine using the same test method so I know my Mighty Vac is working properly but it's a little easier to move by hand.
I can pump like crazy on the Mighty Vac and it doesn't move anything and doesn't hold vacuum at all....barely reaches 5 inches of mercury during the rapid pumping but rises to zero immediately upon stopping.
I'm assuming this means the actuator, or at least the diaphragm, is toast and should be replaced. I just want to be sure the Mighty Vac should have been able to cause this particular device to move because moving it by hand requires more force than I imagined these things to need.
The foot well actuator works fine using the same test method so I know my Mighty Vac is working properly but it's a little easier to move by hand.
#2
Nordschleife Master
more force to move could be because the shaft is binding on something. If that plate is slightly off then it can get wedged into the manifold and be difficult to free up.
If it give you vacumn then goes away then its definately the diaphram. A cheap but involved fix.
If it give you vacumn then goes away then its definately the diaphram. A cheap but involved fix.
#3
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Yes you need a replacement - based on the symptoms - only then will you be able to tell if it can move the actuator or if that is a secondary issues here...
Alan
Alan
#4
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
I have the replacement diaphragms for the center and footwell actuators for $36.50 each plus shipping.
Wise to change both while you are in there.
Roger
Roger@928sRus.com
Wise to change both while you are in there.
Roger
Roger@928sRus.com
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#5
Nordschleife Master
I apparently am thinking of the wrong part of the car
either way, if you dont hold vacumn you have a leak and it can be assumed its an old diaphram
either way, if you dont hold vacumn you have a leak and it can be assumed its an old diaphram
#6
Yup, change them all and you will be taken care of for years. Here is when I did it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...actuators+Sean
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...actuators+Sean
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Roger's prices are pretty attractive for the diaphragms. 30-50% less than buying the whole actuators and just grabbing the diaphragms from them to fit into you existing actuators. The footwell flap and the comb flap actuators both require that you extract the center console, so if you need to replace one, the other is an easy WYAIT decision.
There are some who have gone through the trouble of just tying the comb flap actuator open to restore airflow there, but IMHO that's nothing more than a very temporary summer-only "fix".
The comb flap relaxes to the part-closed position when either the footwell or dash/defrost options are selected at the controller. Partially closing the comb flap adds more flow to the target vents when you need it. Gets the fog off the inside of the screen a lot faster, and also warms your feet a lot faster too. In summer you really cramp the airflow through that center vent of the actuator isn't working correctly. At the same time, the vacuum loss with the torn comb flap diaphragm also causes the heater control valve to go open, rendering the AC system barely cool under perfect circumstances. If your AC system is at less than full capability, you'll roast in the car.
There are some who have gone through the trouble of just tying the comb flap actuator open to restore airflow there, but IMHO that's nothing more than a very temporary summer-only "fix".
The comb flap relaxes to the part-closed position when either the footwell or dash/defrost options are selected at the controller. Partially closing the comb flap adds more flow to the target vents when you need it. Gets the fog off the inside of the screen a lot faster, and also warms your feet a lot faster too. In summer you really cramp the airflow through that center vent of the actuator isn't working correctly. At the same time, the vacuum loss with the torn comb flap diaphragm also causes the heater control valve to go open, rendering the AC system barely cool under perfect circumstances. If your AC system is at less than full capability, you'll roast in the car.
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll be ordering some replacement parts tomorrow.