Marine Blue

Can I pull the wires from the back of the O2 sensor or are they soldered on?

If I can't pull them what is the best way to remove the sensor without dropping the exhaust?

My goal is to slide the catalytic heat sheilds back to access the ball cup.

Yeah I did a search but what I found revolved around completely eliminating the O2 sensor not the actual removal process.

I know, I'm a novice a this stuff. I guess I have to start somewhere.

Any help is appreciated.

Imo000

You don't really need to remove the seonsor to get to the ball cup. At least I didn't when I did mine 5 or 6 years ago. BUT I think I did had to make a small cut in the heatshield where the sensor was to get the shield off the O2 wires. Besides removing the heatshield, I didn't have to touch the exhaust at all to change the ball cup.

This was on an '85 32V.

Tampa 928s

On my 86 go rent for "free" a removal tool from Auto Zone they have 4 sizes in the pack bring it back and they refund your money.
It looks like a socket with a opening on the side to let the wire go through.
If your going to replace it cut the wires makes it a lot easier, try the socket first to make sure you have room. When putting the new one on tighten as much a possible use the tool with the wire sticking out and tighten.

worf928

Unplug the O2 sensor from the harness at the CEL, push it out the hole in the side of the floor pan, then route it out of the heat shield.

Also, you don't have to drop the exhaust. You can unbolt the cat from the manifold flanges let it hang down a bit and then support the far end of the cat so that it doesn't put too much stress on the rubber hangers.

Marine Blue

Thank you everyone, I think I have the info needed to get this done. I can only hope tomorrows temps are as high as todays....can't wait for spring!

Ispeed

Get it done already, the suspense is killing me!

PorKen

If you unbolt the lower fuse cover panel (two 10mm bolts or nuts), it makes it easier to get to the grommet. Pull back the tunnel insulation, then lift up the firewall insulation. The grommet is 2-3" from the floor, and 2" from the insulation edge.

If you are replacing an original sensor, I found the open sided socket would just spin on the old, rusted sensor. The fancy socket is good for installing, though.

To remove old sensors, I knock off the ceramic part of the sensor, and use a regular 6-point socket on there.

IcemanG17

Afshin
Dave and Porken hit it exactly......"If" the O2 sensor is bad, then its causing the car to run extra rich, so fixing it should gain you some BWAAHHH

Marine Blue

Ugh I'm still working on this believe it or not. The O2 sensor is fine so I don't want to damage it and I'm not sure I want to cut the heat sheild. Seems my only option is finding where the O2 sensor wire connects to the CEL, can anyone give me an idea exactly where that is? My guess is it's on the passenger side next to the relays but I haven't a clue which of the wires I should be disconnecting.

Marine Blue

Never mind, I found a post which describes where it is.

Garth S

Yep - it is a 3-pin connector on a 1/4" round cable: unplug and trace it back to the side of the 'hump' oner the trans. Push out the rubber plug and draw down from below. That will give adequate slack to move the heatshield around.

Marine Blue

I'm finally at a point where I can access the ball cup. I can see clear as day that the plastic in the ball cup is cracked and gone. So I then look through my tool set and realize that I don't have a 17mm (yeah Carl I totally forgot ) and so I have to make a run out to Sears to pick up a few things. Other than a set of curved 17mm wrenches can anyone think of anything else that makes this job easier (other than a few beers )

Imo000

A very small pipe wrench. Smaller the better

Marine Blue

Is the pipe wrench a substitute for the 17mm wrench or something else?