Anyone had experience with this process? My chin spoiler has broken in two just in front of the wheel well, tried several "glue" products but they don't hold up.

 

I've tried a bunch of things including making plastic and metal reinforcing plates, melting, tywraps, etc. The bottom line (as far as I can tell) is that these things just have a short life and thats all. The plastic they are made out of seems to be too hard for the application. If they were as soft as the rear spoiler there would be no problem. At the moment I just have the center section of mine removed...Doesn't look THAT bad of you dont look close.

 

J B WELD

 

I tried a product called Dura-Mix after reading about it here on Rennlist. Worked well if you follow directions, and get the correct product.
You must buy it at an auto paint store (to the trade) and buy the plastic prep also. You need to prep the break properly as per instructions.
I had difficulty getting it to cure rapidly, but once it did, it was solid. The color(black)was a bit different than the surrounding spoiler, but once it was sanded and finished, it was difficult to tell unless you got down and inspected it closely. And it was strong.
I say "was" because I tore it off again backing over a curb and then instituted the only sure cure for things of this nature: black duct tape! Now that is what works !!
So it's off to Devek to buy another new spoiler because the duct tape is so crappy looking.
I have thought about inventing a flexible joint right at the brake duct intake. That would allow the center section to give a little back and forth as it passes over obstructions and small people <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
Instead, I plan to install a warning device similar to the curb warning sensors that were installed on cars when whitewall tires were in fashion. It is a linear spring that will scrape the curb before the tire rubs, and I will put one on each side of the spoiler to preceed the spoiler's contact with the curb, scraping and warning before it is too late. If it works maybe I can avoid the constant expense of repairs and replacements. I will get on this project after the Parade in July. Along with all the other projects like dash repair, etc. on my "To Do" list.
For DuraMix: <a href="http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/aad/prod_lines/duramix/duramix.jhtml:" target="_blank">http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/aad/prod_lines/duramix/duramix.jhtml:</a> bigbye:

 

Sorry, the above post had an incorrect link. Use this: <a href="http://www.autobodysupply.net/Duramixplasticrepair.htm" target="_blank">http://www.autobodysupply.net/Duramixplasticrepair.htm</a>

<img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />

 

I don't know if this will work on the spoiler, but it might give you some ideas. This worked on fixing one of my rear wheel inner liners that was cracked badly and loose.

My other hobby is scale modeling and I have worked with various types of plastic, resin, etc. I roughened up the area using very course sandpaper. Make sure that it's clean (the sanding should do that nicely). I went to TAP plastics and bought a small sheet (about 1 foot square) of carbon fiber. I cut about a half dozen strips of the material (about half inch by three inches) to use like rebar in a concrete job. I used a two part high strength epoxy and spread in on the area to be fixed. Then I placed the strips on the epoxy and over the cracks. I kind of pushed the strips into the epoxy and then added more epoxy over them. While the epoxy was not yet hardened, I then placed a thin sheet of lexan over the area. This acted like a patch. That sheet was also roughened up with the sandpaper.

Once the whole setup had cured I painted it flat black and bolted it right up. If you can do that to the back of where the air dam is damaged, it just might be strong enough. Plastic is wierd stuff, it doesn't act the same. Some types take patches well and others don't.

Good luck.

Rob

 

Actually a nice link there:

<a href="http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/aad/" target="_blank">http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/aad/</a>

Shows what they got & where to buy some of the best car care items in the business.

 

A couple of years ago, I bought some German super glue at a trade show. Of course the label fell off and I have been looking for it ever since. It is a "super glue" product, but it will weld pretty much anything stonger than the original. I used it to repair my S spoiler (when I had it) and it was flawless.

All I remember about it was that it started with a "P" and that it had to be refrigerated (!). If anyone know what this stuff is, please let me know!

 

I was wondering about the correct adhesive and patch materials to use on the rear bumper cover plastic. There's a hairline crack just below one taillight, which has revealed itself to be a split in the plastic. A reinforcing strip across the back of the crack will hopefully keep it from spreading.

 

Call around your local motorcycle shops and ask them who they recommend for plastic welding the fairings.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by tresamore:
<strong>Call around your local motorcycle shops and ask them who they recommend for plastic welding the fairings.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Plastex - do a search on "Plastex plastic repair" for various dealers. Comes in black.

I've used for motorcycle applications, works very well, no new cracks formed where I used it.

Good luck, TJ

 

My dad built a front spoiler for his 1973 trans am from two cars. He used bondo and fiber glass. sand smooth and primer and paint the whole thing
Ill get some more info, it works to, good at that

 

thanks!

 

Years ago, I had an '84S with the chin spoiler broken at both corners where the air intake vents are. I had it plastic welded, then painted to include that orange peel look that was stock. Cost me $150 and it looked brand new.

 

Hello Deb....I know your situation only too well. When I purchased my 84 the chin spoiler was in three pieces,broken at the corners with pieces missing. It took me about five full days to repair but it was well worth it. I used aluminum pieces in the corners, held with rivets. The flat of the rivet to the outside and the aluminum pieces on the inside. Once the pieces were some what attached and aligned, fiberglass cloth and resin was used to fill in the holes. The fiber cloth was used both inside and on the outside of the spoiler. The resin was applied with a cheapo paint brush then allowed to harden. One that was done a vibrating sander and a dremel with a grinding wheel was used to shape and smooth the surface. The inside of the spoiler was left with a rough sanding. Now here's the funky part...I used a shutz gun which is an undercoating gun. Here in Canada and probably there as well there is a product available that is a stone guard. It's a rubber textured liquid that dries quickly. The shutz gun shoots this product and this leaves a semi rough texture on the spoiler. It's almost like someone took a paint roller cleaner and gave it a spin and the paint droplets splattered the unit. Once you do the whole chin spoiler let it dry. Now that it is dry you can paint it. I used a paint that was meant for bumpers and trim. The paint has a flat finish and I think it was called EURO B