Staples for Bumper Beading
01-30-2002, 05:27 PM
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Staples for Bumper Beading
My car will be out of the paint shop in a week or so and I will be reinstalling the front and rear bumper covers.
I will need to apply the new bumper beading which the original beading was held in place by stainless steel staples.
Does anyone know where I can get these staples and gun, OR is there another way to apply the beading?
Keith
I will need to apply the new bumper beading which the original beading was held in place by stainless steel staples.
Does anyone know where I can get these staples and gun, OR is there another way to apply the beading?
Keith
01-30-2002, 05:42 PM
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Home depot sells stainless steel T-50 staples. These work in most hand/power staple guns. When I did mine, I found that I had to go back and set them fully flush with a hammer or the cover wont sit up against the body correctly.
Take your time and make sure you angle them slightly away from the exterior (painted) side of the covers. If they break out or even come close to the surface, the paint will be damaged.
Take your time and make sure you angle them slightly away from the exterior (painted) side of the covers. If they break out or even come close to the surface, the paint will be damaged.
01-30-2002, 05:55 PM
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Cool on the Home Depot thing, but so that I am clear on your installation part, you are saying to angle the pointed ENDS of the staples away from the paint surface...correct?
Keith
Keith
01-30-2002, 05:58 PM
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BTW John, what did you rest the bumper cover on while you were doing this? I don't want to destroy the newly painted surfaces.
Keith
Keith
01-30-2002, 06:57 PM
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I believe the staples will be Monel. I found them at a marine store if you can't find them at Home Depot. We used the standard T-50 vintage memtioned previously, with the ends hand-formed. This is thrilling work, because the welting needs to be held pretty darn straight as the staple is 'installed'. I'm sure that Hans and Franz do it quickly and perfectly every time; for the rest of us, it takes a bit of practice and patience to get it all lined up perfectly. You still have the pictures of the details, like exactly where to put the welting... right?
Bob
Bob
01-31-2002, 09:35 AM
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Keith,
I did the beading in my family room on top of a blanket. I rested it wherever I could get a line if site and comfortable position for stapling. This usually involved having the cover across my lap.
With respect to your angling question, Yes, I mean angle the staple gun so that the staple goes into the bumber cover with the pointed end headed slightly away from the painted surface of the bumper.
Dr. Bob is right, they are monel (my mistake). A great idea to alter the tips, this something i didn't do and would help with the issue last discussed. On the standard staples, the points are cut on angles so that when the staples go into the material, they peirce better but also, the points send each inserted leg in a different direction (left point heads south right point heads north twisting the staple beam (the part you see on the surface). I beleive this is intended to provide better holding. Thats why I say angle staple away from the surface because if you don't, even if you aim the staple parallel to the outside surface, one of the legs by virtue of the point angle will turn towards your paint all by itself. If you can, modify the points so that it doesn't do that. Alternatly, try to find staples without the angled points. I don't know if ther are available in the monel.
I did the beading in my family room on top of a blanket. I rested it wherever I could get a line if site and comfortable position for stapling. This usually involved having the cover across my lap.
With respect to your angling question, Yes, I mean angle the staple gun so that the staple goes into the bumber cover with the pointed end headed slightly away from the painted surface of the bumper.
Dr. Bob is right, they are monel (my mistake). A great idea to alter the tips, this something i didn't do and would help with the issue last discussed. On the standard staples, the points are cut on angles so that when the staples go into the material, they peirce better but also, the points send each inserted leg in a different direction (left point heads south right point heads north twisting the staple beam (the part you see on the surface). I beleive this is intended to provide better holding. Thats why I say angle staple away from the surface because if you don't, even if you aim the staple parallel to the outside surface, one of the legs by virtue of the point angle will turn towards your paint all by itself. If you can, modify the points so that it doesn't do that. Alternatly, try to find staples without the angled points. I don't know if ther are available in the monel.
01-31-2002, 05:34 PM
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Good info to know on the staples, though I seriously don't think that I am going to "re-angle" 200-300 staples for the job. The original staples were thinner with square ends.
Dr. Bob...details???...pictures??? I have a good idea where these beads need to surface at, in reference to the finished product after installation. The bead protrudes slightly above the finished surface from what it looks to me. I don't know if I will get it perfect, but I will certainly take my time and it will look great.
I was thinking about the blanket thing, actually an old comforter (what I use for trsnsporting things like this in the back of my truck) that I can safely lay the covers on to work.
I don't know if my staple gun has the "huevos" to sink the staples, but I am also not sure how one can hammer them the rest of the way in. Seems a little tough to do giving that the rubber lip would give everytime you tap it with a hammer.
This would be my only concern throughout the course of installation.
Keith
Dr. Bob...details???...pictures??? I have a good idea where these beads need to surface at, in reference to the finished product after installation. The bead protrudes slightly above the finished surface from what it looks to me. I don't know if I will get it perfect, but I will certainly take my time and it will look great.
I was thinking about the blanket thing, actually an old comforter (what I use for trsnsporting things like this in the back of my truck) that I can safely lay the covers on to work.
I don't know if my staple gun has the "huevos" to sink the staples, but I am also not sure how one can hammer them the rest of the way in. Seems a little tough to do giving that the rubber lip would give everytime you tap it with a hammer.
This would be my only concern throughout the course of installation.
Keith
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01-31-2002, 07:54 PM
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Hi Keith--
I was pretty clear I thought when you took the cover off, to look (and take digipix) at exactly how the welting fits. More than a few cars I've looked at have welting that's uneven, stretched, crooked, loose, bunched, or pinched in the joint between the steel and the plastic. Many also have welting 'extended' to places where the factory didn't put any originally. You're a bit of a perfectionist (join the crowd...) and like to show the car, so these details are important I'm sure.
The chisel-point staples get a quick treatment on the grinding wheel to square up the ends. Takes a few seconds per stick, and you won't use more than two or maybe three sticks even with lots of mistakes.
Find a piece of wood to clamp in the workmate, and use it to support the plastic shell while you shoot the staples in. This is a lot easier with another set of hands helping to hold the shell while you manipulate the welting and the staple gun. Sit on the workmate, partner faces you holding the shell. Use new (a new roll...) detailer's masking tape (has easy-to-remove no-peel-the-new-paint adhesive) to hold the welting roughly in place before you start. Work from the center of each section out to the ends. Don't bother trying to hammer the staples in if the gun doesn't shoot them all the way-- use a pair of bill-nosed (3/8" wide with smooth flat jaws covered with a layer of that tape) to carefully push any high staples through the plastic. You'll also need to roll the back of the staple, the legs that stick through the plastic, to keep the staples from pulling out later.
While writing this, I took a walk over from the engineering office to the accountant's office, looked at the heavy-duty thick-item stapler that lives there. It looks like it will take the monel staples, and would make very quick work of the task. Your office might have one of these puppies to put thick proposals together. I'd figure a way to clamp the stapler itself into or onto the workmate, with the business end sticking out a few inches maybe. Handle it as I described above, but this time you can get Jennifer to sit on the workmate and lean on the lever while you line up the bumper and the welting. Try this on the old shell first to make sure you have your commands coordinated, and make sure that the stapler itself doesn't damage the new paint. Maybe a protective layer of that tape at the roll, or maybe on the stapler itself, would be a good idea.
Take your time, do it right, and be happy and proud of your results.
I'd invite you guys over for a session with the stapler, but I'm in Glendale and the other tools are in Cypress. If you get stonewalled let me know and we'll work out a solution.
Bob
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I was pretty clear I thought when you took the cover off, to look (and take digipix) at exactly how the welting fits. More than a few cars I've looked at have welting that's uneven, stretched, crooked, loose, bunched, or pinched in the joint between the steel and the plastic. Many also have welting 'extended' to places where the factory didn't put any originally. You're a bit of a perfectionist (join the crowd...) and like to show the car, so these details are important I'm sure.
The chisel-point staples get a quick treatment on the grinding wheel to square up the ends. Takes a few seconds per stick, and you won't use more than two or maybe three sticks even with lots of mistakes.
Find a piece of wood to clamp in the workmate, and use it to support the plastic shell while you shoot the staples in. This is a lot easier with another set of hands helping to hold the shell while you manipulate the welting and the staple gun. Sit on the workmate, partner faces you holding the shell. Use new (a new roll...) detailer's masking tape (has easy-to-remove no-peel-the-new-paint adhesive) to hold the welting roughly in place before you start. Work from the center of each section out to the ends. Don't bother trying to hammer the staples in if the gun doesn't shoot them all the way-- use a pair of bill-nosed (3/8" wide with smooth flat jaws covered with a layer of that tape) to carefully push any high staples through the plastic. You'll also need to roll the back of the staple, the legs that stick through the plastic, to keep the staples from pulling out later.
While writing this, I took a walk over from the engineering office to the accountant's office, looked at the heavy-duty thick-item stapler that lives there. It looks like it will take the monel staples, and would make very quick work of the task. Your office might have one of these puppies to put thick proposals together. I'd figure a way to clamp the stapler itself into or onto the workmate, with the business end sticking out a few inches maybe. Handle it as I described above, but this time you can get Jennifer to sit on the workmate and lean on the lever while you line up the bumper and the welting. Try this on the old shell first to make sure you have your commands coordinated, and make sure that the stapler itself doesn't damage the new paint. Maybe a protective layer of that tape at the roll, or maybe on the stapler itself, would be a good idea.
Take your time, do it right, and be happy and proud of your results.
I'd invite you guys over for a session with the stapler, but I'm in Glendale and the other tools are in Cypress. If you get stonewalled let me know and we'll work out a solution.
Bob
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01-31-2002, 08:53 PM
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Thanks Dr. Bob...good instructions!
You may very well have said to take some pics, but it was pretty straight forward when I looked at the removal.
Have no doubt, that the beading will look fab. My main concern was staple installation.
Sounds like a "Rube Goldberg" process, considering what I need to do, but having not done it, I am keeping an open mind. I ike the idea of the office stapler, I will look to see if we own one. Never the less, bending the ends with a tool is no big deal.
Keith
You may very well have said to take some pics, but it was pretty straight forward when I looked at the removal.
Have no doubt, that the beading will look fab. My main concern was staple installation.
Sounds like a "Rube Goldberg" process, considering what I need to do, but having not done it, I am keeping an open mind. I ike the idea of the office stapler, I will look to see if we own one. Never the less, bending the ends with a tool is no big deal.
Keith