Quickest way to remove front Shocks
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From: Sydney AUS
I might be changing my mind on the above - Left hand side front shock now out by removing the upper A arm. Under tray was already removed - nothing else needed to come out to get at and crack the upper A arm nuts.
Had to go and buy a new 1/2" drive ratchet - bought two - a short 72 click one and an extendable (6" , 12" and 24") 40 click one. Got the forwards nut cracked from underneath, and the rear nut from on top between the PS pressure hose and the cylinder head.
On an roll now.
Had to go and buy a new 1/2" drive ratchet - bought two - a short 72 click one and an extendable (6" , 12" and 24") 40 click one. Got the forwards nut cracked from underneath, and the rear nut from on top between the PS pressure hose and the cylinder head.
On an roll now.
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
The spring compressor looks like a Harbor Freight special that I had for a few years and then threw out because it was too big to use on any of my BMW springs 
Even if you were going to do this once, the compressors probably cheaper than an alignment after dropping the A-arms.....
Even if you were going to do this once, the compressors probably cheaper than an alignment after dropping the A-arms.....
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
I might be changing my mind on the above - Left hand side front shock now out by removing the upper A arm. Under tray was already removed - nothing else needed to come out to get at and crack the upper A arm nuts.
Had to go and buy a new 1/2" drive ratchet - bought two - a short 72 click one and an extendable (6" , 12" and 24") 40 click one. Got the forwards nut cracked from underneath, and the rear nut from on top between the PS pressure hose and the cylinder head.
On an roll now.
Had to go and buy a new 1/2" drive ratchet - bought two - a short 72 click one and an extendable (6" , 12" and 24") 40 click one. Got the forwards nut cracked from underneath, and the rear nut from on top between the PS pressure hose and the cylinder head.
On an roll now.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Davidsonville, MD
Why do you people insist on removing the upper control arm as a "quick" method of removing the shocks.
1. Remove spindle and get it out of the way.
2. Loosen all bolts that secure the lower control arm.
3. Remove the lower shock bolt. You may need a hammer and a drift to do this.
4. Push the lower control arm down and as far out of the way as possible.
5. Remove the 3 bolts the secure the top of the shock.
6. Gently work the shock down and out of the car. You may have to periodically whack the upper control arm with a large hammer to help the shock along. 10-12 minutes max to remove the shock.
7. Work smarter not harder.
1. Remove spindle and get it out of the way.
2. Loosen all bolts that secure the lower control arm.
3. Remove the lower shock bolt. You may need a hammer and a drift to do this.
4. Push the lower control arm down and as far out of the way as possible.
5. Remove the 3 bolts the secure the top of the shock.
6. Gently work the shock down and out of the car. You may have to periodically whack the upper control arm with a large hammer to help the shock along. 10-12 minutes max to remove the shock.
7. Work smarter not harder.
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From: Florida
Just finished removing / replacing front shocks on my '82 euro and even though it is a tight fit, they will slide out with the upper A arm in plce. You need to push the upper A arm all the way up and they will slide out.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Why do you people insist on removing the upper control arm as a "quick" method of removing the shocks.
1. Remove spindle and get it out of the way.
2. Loosen all bolts that secure the lower control arm.
3. Remove the lower shock bolt. You may need a hammer and a drift to do this.
4. Push the lower control arm down and as far out of the way as possible.
5. Remove the 3 bolts the secure the top of the shock.
6. Gently work the shock down and out of the car. You may have to periodically whack the upper control arm with a large hammer to help the shock along. 10-12 minutes max to remove the shock.
7. Work smarter not harder.
1. Remove spindle and get it out of the way.
2. Loosen all bolts that secure the lower control arm.
3. Remove the lower shock bolt. You may need a hammer and a drift to do this.
4. Push the lower control arm down and as far out of the way as possible.
5. Remove the 3 bolts the secure the top of the shock.
6. Gently work the shock down and out of the car. You may have to periodically whack the upper control arm with a large hammer to help the shock along. 10-12 minutes max to remove the shock.
7. Work smarter not harder.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 5
From: Davidsonville, MD
I don't think that method will work on a '85. I should have mentioned that I only loosened but did not remove the bolts securing the lower control arm. But it seems we're on the same page.
