GT Jackson

I am attempting to remove my fuel rails without success. The fuel connections are off as well as the two 10mm bolts that hold the rails, but tug as hard a I can, the rails and injectors will not lift off.

I have squirted WD40 on the injectors/block as recommended as well as trying to pry the rail up using a little leverage, but again no success.

Am I doing this right? I assume that the rails and injectors should lift off as one solid unit. The only thing holding the injectors in right now should be the O rings, correct?

I hope you can set me straight on this as the last thing I need to do is screw this up by really putting too much leverage on the rails.

T_MaX

Lay some rages and a small block of wood down on the valve cover, use a large screw drive and pry slowly and carefully on each end of the rail.

Worked for me.

ErnestSw

Your injectors are stuck in their holes by their O rings. You can safely use a lot of force SLOWLY and "walk" up and down the fuel rail using Max's method. The injectors will let go randomly, so once one is loose concentrate on the next one to it.

GT Jackson

OK guys, thanks. I'll keep on prying till they come loose.

Oscar R

What about removing the square clips off each injector, removing the rails with the injectors still atached to the intake manifold and then removing each injector individually. It may be easier to remove one injector at a time than to try to remove them all at the same time with the rail still attached. If you pry on the rails too much, it is possible to damage the clips and or the rails themselves. I recently did this and after a little WD-40 and rotation of the injectors, they finally came off. Let us know what method worked.

GT Jackson

Oscar: You might have a point. After much effort I manage to remove the rails. Unfortunately the first injector separated from the rail and is still stuck in the block. Whoa is me.

T_MaX

If you need to, you can tie a nylon string (small sized rope) to it with a loop on the other end and use the pry method on it as well.

P.S. I've done it like Oscar discribed and both methods work fine. Humm I never thought I might bend one of the clips, good point Oscar.

BrianG

My challenge was getting the injectors out of the rails. They came out of the intake holes with just a bit of effort.
MEK (methylethylketone) softens the o-rings notably. Perhaps dribbling a bit of it into the injector wells would help. It is what I eventually did for the upper ends, in the fuel rails.

GT Jackson

Finally got the blasted things out include the stubborn one that separated from the rail. Now that thats accomplished how do I disconnected the rail and injectors from the electronics so that I can get them out of the way? Back to Nichols to see if I can figure this.

Oscar R

There is a small metal clip that goes around the 2 pin connector which keeps the connector from backing out. It is possible to remove the connector from the injector by gently pulling the connector out, or you can remove the metal clip and then pull the connector off. BTW, the clip is a small wire looking thing..you can't miss it. Careful with the clip if you loose it, they can be difficult to locate in the engine bay.

T_MaX

Here is what I used to get the clip over the locking tab on the injector base. The two small metal pieces worked good the first time I did this job, but the second time I did it I used the small screw driver (Heat, nerves, fustration, who knows). If you use a small screw driver work one side at a time pulling the plug slightly away from the injector.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/FMS24lbC002.jpg" alt=" - " />

Here you can see the locking tab on the injector.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/FMS24lbC001.jpg" alt=" - " />

Oscar check your P-mail!

ErnestSw

You'll need to replace both O rings, the little red washer and the pintle caps, which are the small caps around the tip of the injector. You can get kits from the big three.
You'll have to remove the old pintle caps by cutting the widest point vertically with a sharp blade. The cap will crack and come off easily. Careful of the tip.

GT Jackson

Max. Is that a Ford injector?

Amen to all you guys. Thanks for the help. This is a much bigger job than I anticipated. The passenger side rail has yet to come off. Just looking at all the wiring connections makes it seem very daunting. Maybe a beer or two will help.

Suggestions on what to plug the holes on the block with when I degrease? Right now I have newspaper plugs.

Oscar R

Nothing to it Jackson, It's nearly impossible to mix up the injector connectors. However, on the passenger's side harness, there are 2 two pin connectors towards the front of the car that can get tricky. One of these connectors goes to a temp sensor located on the left side of the thermostat housing assembly. The other two pin connector goes to a small black valve located under the left hose coming from the rediator. These 2 connectors can be swapped with one another and if they are, the car will not start. If you are just working on the fuel injectors, there is no need to disconnect these two front connectors. Just make sure you pressurize the fuel system before starting the car to make sure you don't have any fuel leaks in the lines you've disconnected. Jumpering out the fuel pump relay will do the trick. Good luck, let us know if we can be of further help.

BrianG

Eh b'y, what little red washers?? And why replace the pintle caps?

I sent mine in to the "injector shop" and they cleaned and flow-matched them and did replace 3 of the 8 pintle caps, but not all. Also they supplied 2 o-rings per injector but no "little red washers"......... did I miss something??