S/C inn can't get it to idle.
#31
Race Car
Thread Starter
Lazy today can a request a quick answer: Need to tap into a Ing switchable source on the fuse panel. What connector a-w and what pin could I use this will save me a lot of time if someone knows this off the top of there head.
Thanks
Thanks
#32
Gluteus Maximus
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Connecting to one of the fuses is usually easier than messing with the connectors.
Just pick one of the fuses that's switched (like the power windows or the radio).
Can't remember if your year has the old style ceramic fuses or the newer blade type.
With the newer blade type you can buy a fuse tap (radioshack has 'em).
Just pick one of the fuses that's switched (like the power windows or the radio).
Can't remember if your year has the old style ceramic fuses or the newer blade type.
With the newer blade type you can buy a fuse tap (radioshack has 'em).
#34
I need to bypass the air box sensor, should I install a fixed resister for now till it's sharked tuned and if so what ohms' 2.2 K is that correct?
I tried to remove the sensor from the air box but a little more convincing and it would beak the plastic housing I am sure.
I tried to remove the sensor from the air box but a little more convincing and it would beak the plastic housing I am sure.
If you use one of those fuse taps like the one pictured above, it will bend apart the connector inside the fuse box. If you ever get rid of that fuse tap connector then, a stock fuse won't fit in the fuse box correctly anymore, and you'll very likely have intermittent connection problems there unless you take the fuse box out and apart, and bend the internal connectors back together again. BTDT because of that type of fuse tap being used for an aftermarket alarm install.
#35
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#36
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As John mentioned, if you put the resistor in place of the sensor you won't get the 3 degree timing retard from hot intake air. The timing would always be in the more advanced mode. Since you're looking for a temporary solution until you get the car SharkTuned, if it were me, I'd just connect the low octane loop. That jumpers the air temperature sensor so you don't have to do anything with it, and gives you the 3 degree timing retard all the time. That will give you the safer ignition timing until you do get the car tuned, and you don't have to mess around with resistors, or even touch the sensor at all.
#42
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well got it out runs great, but I think the clamps need to be a little smaller the Maf clamp is turned all they way down I think that's why it blew off. I'm going to put it into the garage for the night and wait so my neighbors won't call the cops while I test it. It did pull great but want to change to the stock chips before I do any more playing around
#44
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#45
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Tampa,
Almost there!
My MAF clamp is fine, but after a couple of blowoffs early on I bought a roll of "3M outdoor grip tape" from home depot. The 3m has held up well to underhood heat, a cheaper brand did not. It is like a heavy grit black sandpaper with an adhesive on the back. Clean the surfaces well, warm the metal with a heat gun or hair dryer and wrap a strip around the flanges before putting on that big rubber elbow. The surface with the texture really "digs" in to the rubber and holds it in place. It has held up very well, and when clamped does not move at all under a bit more boost than you are running right now.
Jim
Almost there!
My MAF clamp is fine, but after a couple of blowoffs early on I bought a roll of "3M outdoor grip tape" from home depot. The 3m has held up well to underhood heat, a cheaper brand did not. It is like a heavy grit black sandpaper with an adhesive on the back. Clean the surfaces well, warm the metal with a heat gun or hair dryer and wrap a strip around the flanges before putting on that big rubber elbow. The surface with the texture really "digs" in to the rubber and holds it in place. It has held up very well, and when clamped does not move at all under a bit more boost than you are running right now.
Jim