Almost There 1984 US Model BUMPED
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Almost There 1984 US Model BUMPED
Well,
Last night yielded a few more results.
Rewired aftermarket Viper alarm system and everything appears to work properly.
There were no interior lights and no dash lights. I fixed these things by placing fuses in the 'err right sockets!
I found a blue vacuum line that runs across the top of the wiper motor assembly. It had been disconnected. Anyone know what it is for?
Also discovered that the AC pump will not kick in. The pump looks brand new but its a no-go.
Any ideas as to where to look for engagement of said pump?
And finally, it was confirmed that the factory alarm was the culprit for the fuel pump relay not engaging. Where do I find this culprit so I can repair the problem? Right now, I have Z4 jumped to Z6 as per Wally's suggestion. I would, however, still like to know if the problem can be corrected instead of putting a bandaid on it.
Thanx In Advance.
Last night yielded a few more results.
Rewired aftermarket Viper alarm system and everything appears to work properly.
There were no interior lights and no dash lights. I fixed these things by placing fuses in the 'err right sockets!
I found a blue vacuum line that runs across the top of the wiper motor assembly. It had been disconnected. Anyone know what it is for?
Also discovered that the AC pump will not kick in. The pump looks brand new but its a no-go.
Any ideas as to where to look for engagement of said pump?
And finally, it was confirmed that the factory alarm was the culprit for the fuel pump relay not engaging. Where do I find this culprit so I can repair the problem? Right now, I have Z4 jumped to Z6 as per Wally's suggestion. I would, however, still like to know if the problem can be corrected instead of putting a bandaid on it.
Thanx In Advance.
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,919
Likes: 216
From: Boulder, CO
For the AC, check your charge. if the system is not charged, the pressure switch on the bottom of the fitting by the drier will open up and prevent the compressor from engaging. There is another switch on top of that fitting (overpressure/freeze I suppose.) You might have relay problems too, it tends to fail and AIUI prevent the compressor clutch from engaging.
-Joel.
-Joel.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
Likes: 52
From: Australia
One vac line goes into cabin to feed heater & ac controls, one comes back out to hot water switch (black?). One goes across firewall to cruise control unit, not sure of colour. If your heater flap control works, you will have vac in there. Check hot water valve for a vac pipe fitted?
jp 83 Euro S AT
jp 83 Euro S AT
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, SC
Blue hose goes to the reciculation flap, The pressure switch at the front of the receiver dryer can be jumped to see if the AC clutch will engage. The switch at the top of the receiver dryer is a temperature switch for the aux fan in front of the radiator. Can't help with the alarm
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Thanx Lads,
Finally took a bit of a night off last night. Buttoned up the rest of the interior and got the car back to a semi-presentable state. Actually got home before midnight!
I think I'm almost there and I will test out the AC as per your suggestions tonight.
I still need to know about the factory alarm and whether or not I can leave a jumper between Z4-Z6? I am worried that this was a temp fix and that it may cause battery drain issues if I leave it there. Wally??
You really had to be there to see this. There was the factory alarm, a Viper alarm AND a Lojack system in this car-----ALL operating at the same time.
"Uhhh, my car won't start"?
No **** Batman!!
If you guys could have only seen the cluge of wiring running into all the vital arteries on this car, you would get ill. I know I did. Then imagine hacking half of it out and replacing it again! It was for the best anyway. I found multiple burned wires and bad connections. I posted 2 pics for you to see what I was up against and yes, the yellow alligator clip wire was on the car when I started to work on it.....
<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/redalert/IMAGE004b.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/redalert/IMAGE007b.jpg" alt=" - " />
Finally took a bit of a night off last night. Buttoned up the rest of the interior and got the car back to a semi-presentable state. Actually got home before midnight!
I think I'm almost there and I will test out the AC as per your suggestions tonight.
I still need to know about the factory alarm and whether or not I can leave a jumper between Z4-Z6? I am worried that this was a temp fix and that it may cause battery drain issues if I leave it there. Wally??
You really had to be there to see this. There was the factory alarm, a Viper alarm AND a Lojack system in this car-----ALL operating at the same time.
"Uhhh, my car won't start"?
No **** Batman!!
If you guys could have only seen the cluge of wiring running into all the vital arteries on this car, you would get ill. I know I did. Then imagine hacking half of it out and replacing it again! It was for the best anyway. I found multiple burned wires and bad connections. I posted 2 pics for you to see what I was up against and yes, the yellow alligator clip wire was on the car when I started to work on it.....
<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/redalert/IMAGE004b.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/redalert/IMAGE007b.jpg" alt=" - " />
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 0
From: Nashua, NH
Bernie,
I don't understand your problem. Wasn't the idea of the three alarm/tracking systems to make the car theft proof?
How many hours did it take for you to get it started? <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" /> Sounds like it worked! <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />
Mighta been a little simpler to remove the engine, but, hey, it's dirty under there. <img border="0" alt="[nono]" title="" src="graemlins/nono.gif" />
All you're doing is removing the simplest Lucas theft deterrent kit they make. <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
My deepest respects for your perserverance. <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
I don't understand your problem. Wasn't the idea of the three alarm/tracking systems to make the car theft proof?
How many hours did it take for you to get it started? <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" /> Sounds like it worked! <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" /> Mighta been a little simpler to remove the engine, but, hey, it's dirty under there. <img border="0" alt="[nono]" title="" src="graemlins/nono.gif" />
All you're doing is removing the simplest Lucas theft deterrent kit they make. <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
My deepest respects for your perserverance. <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by ErnestSw:
<strong>How many hours did it take for you to get it started?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Hmmmm,
It's hard to say, It seems like it was endless. I can't even say how much stuff I fixed that wasn't even related to the no-start issue?
As I found bad stuff, I fixed it.
It appears that ALL electrical systems on the car are up and running now. I just need to sort out the AC issue and whether or not to leave the factory alarm bypass in place or correct the problem.
BTW - I also replaced the injector harness and refurbed the intake system. It all looks purdy now and I think it is all sealed up. Tonight I will be doing a air / vacuum leak check on everything.
Thanx for the thumbs up Newf.
One positive thing that came out of all this is that I am getting pretty good at tracking the wiring diagrams in the manual.
Oh, and the other good news is that my truck dropped a cylinder and I get to replace the motor in it!!
Oh well,
Its all about the learning process isn't it?
<strong>How many hours did it take for you to get it started?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Hmmmm,
It's hard to say, It seems like it was endless. I can't even say how much stuff I fixed that wasn't even related to the no-start issue?
As I found bad stuff, I fixed it.
It appears that ALL electrical systems on the car are up and running now. I just need to sort out the AC issue and whether or not to leave the factory alarm bypass in place or correct the problem.
BTW - I also replaced the injector harness and refurbed the intake system. It all looks purdy now and I think it is all sealed up. Tonight I will be doing a air / vacuum leak check on everything.
Thanx for the thumbs up Newf.
One positive thing that came out of all this is that I am getting pretty good at tracking the wiring diagrams in the manual.
Oh, and the other good news is that my truck dropped a cylinder and I get to replace the motor in it!!
Oh well,
Its all about the learning process isn't it?
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
As Bruce said, the blue hose goes to the recirculation flap which is up next the wiper motor. The PO on mine removed the flap completely for some reason, so I just have this hose hanging out. The hose is capped off on mine. See page 87-2 in the shop manuals for a wild-*** diagram of the vacuum system. The flap in question is called the "Bypass Flap" in the manuals. I went through the vacuum system the other day and found a few hoses connected to the wrong air distribution valve ports.
I'm not sure the flap makes a huge difference as I don't know how I would engage it anyway. There is no obvious recirc switch on my 1980 climate control. It must get automatically triggered in certain configs. If you still have one, you may want to check what state the recirc flap is in (open/closed)
I empathize with the alarm. I removed the aftermarket alarm from the PO. The wiring was a mess.
I'm not sure the flap makes a huge difference as I don't know how I would engage it anyway. There is no obvious recirc switch on my 1980 climate control. It must get automatically triggered in certain configs. If you still have one, you may want to check what state the recirc flap is in (open/closed)
I empathize with the alarm. I removed the aftermarket alarm from the PO. The wiring was a mess.