Steering Rack [TECH]
04-12-2002, 07:18 PM
#16
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I got the ZF-rebuilt rack from 928 Specialists when I replaced mine. It works great. Dave convinced me that ZF did the best job of anybody rebuilding the 928 racks; they are the OEM after all.
04-12-2002, 11:39 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Brendan,
I did my rack, ZF replacement from 928 specialists. Really not a tough job. Call Dave R. he has good advice.
My 86 has the t-bolts too.
Tips:
You will want to have a large adjustable wrench and a couple of large open end wrenches (if you need sizes, I can check and let you know. The large wrenches are to r&r the inner tie rod ends. You MUST counter-hold the rack when r&ring the inner tie rods ends. No big deal, just need the large wrenches. I've heard talk of use of a pipe wrench, but I used the proper open end and adjustable wrenches.
Purchase new boots. Don't try and use the old ones. Small investment to protect your new rack.
Purchase a new steering reservoir. There is a filter in the bottom which cannot be easily cleaned. Just like the boots, it is a small investment to protect your new rack.
Order new banjo bolt seals for where the P.S. hoses attach to thh rack. 50 cents X4.
A front end alignment (toe-in adj. at least)will be needed.
As mentioned, there are a few good write-ups on the procedure.
Good Luck,
Greg
I did my rack, ZF replacement from 928 specialists. Really not a tough job. Call Dave R. he has good advice.
My 86 has the t-bolts too.
Tips:
You will want to have a large adjustable wrench and a couple of large open end wrenches (if you need sizes, I can check and let you know. The large wrenches are to r&r the inner tie rod ends. You MUST counter-hold the rack when r&ring the inner tie rods ends. No big deal, just need the large wrenches. I've heard talk of use of a pipe wrench, but I used the proper open end and adjustable wrenches.
Purchase new boots. Don't try and use the old ones. Small investment to protect your new rack.
Purchase a new steering reservoir. There is a filter in the bottom which cannot be easily cleaned. Just like the boots, it is a small investment to protect your new rack.
Order new banjo bolt seals for where the P.S. hoses attach to thh rack. 50 cents X4.
A front end alignment (toe-in adj. at least)will be needed.
As mentioned, there are a few good write-ups on the procedure.
Good Luck,
Greg
04-14-2002, 03:24 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Thanks Doc, as well as Greg.
I tend to work on my own, so that is why I did not do the motor mount day, as well as the fact that Kaz and I tried to do the highway Ramble (we did, but alone)...
The garage is on the way - as soon as I get my insurance agency going, and can moveout of this over-priced, under-funded apartment complex.
I was unaware that it would be possible to life the engine enough (safely) to be able to do the mounts without moving the "big chunk" of metal support down there. Hmm...
Gere - Thanks for all the pointers. I will have to save this page to refer to when I am going to dig in....
Thanks,
I tend to work on my own, so that is why I did not do the motor mount day, as well as the fact that Kaz and I tried to do the highway Ramble (we did, but alone)...
The garage is on the way - as soon as I get my insurance agency going, and can moveout of this over-priced, under-funded apartment complex.
I was unaware that it would be possible to life the engine enough (safely) to be able to do the mounts without moving the "big chunk" of metal support down there. Hmm...
Gere - Thanks for all the pointers. I will have to save this page to refer to when I am going to dig in....
Thanks,
04-15-2002, 01:15 AM
#19
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I replaced the rack in my 87 S4 about 6 weeks ago with a rebuilt from Griffiths.. I am very happy with the quality of the rack. It is a full 'long' rack with the tie rods, boots, etc..
Might want to steal a peak at your lower ball joints as well while you are down there.
I think I paid about $600 (after I returned the old core). I had to put out $900, but it was worth it... comes with a 1 year guarantee, no quesitons asked. Good Luck!
Might want to steal a peak at your lower ball joints as well while you are down there.
I think I paid about $600 (after I returned the old core). I had to put out $900, but it was worth it... comes with a 1 year guarantee, no quesitons asked. Good Luck!
04-15-2002, 08:37 PM
#20
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Hello
Short note for AIRBAG cars.
Have your Steeringwheel blocked as a spin can destroy the coilsetup inside the hub contact carrier ( thats a 150 $ part ).
And yes it is a good time to replace the oilsumpgasket and renew the engine mounts.
The engines have hoist pick up points on the front and on the rear ( outside the end from the heads ) to lift them while you remove the subframe underneath.
Place a security device under the bellhousing ( Clutch or Startergear ) But don´t let your engine hang on that ( will be paid back by the torsion tube problem )
We used rebuilds from Porsche, ZF and a other german source yet the last source was the cheapest by all means. ( new gaskets and some paint but still scored/pittet rod surface )
This year Porsche and ZF stoped to sale rebuilt units due to new warranty issues in the EC marked.
Grüsse
Short note for AIRBAG cars.
Have your Steeringwheel blocked as a spin can destroy the coilsetup inside the hub contact carrier ( thats a 150 $ part ).
And yes it is a good time to replace the oilsumpgasket and renew the engine mounts.
The engines have hoist pick up points on the front and on the rear ( outside the end from the heads ) to lift them while you remove the subframe underneath.
Place a security device under the bellhousing ( Clutch or Startergear ) But don´t let your engine hang on that ( will be paid back by the torsion tube problem )
We used rebuilds from Porsche, ZF and a other german source yet the last source was the cheapest by all means. ( new gaskets and some paint but still scored/pittet rod surface )
This year Porsche and ZF stoped to sale rebuilt units due to new warranty issues in the EC marked.
Grüsse
04-15-2002, 09:08 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
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Brendan,
Are you sure you need a rack, I would check it first .
.
a. Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack housing and push aside.
b. Clean the steering rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
C. At an engine speed of approximately 1000 rpm, turn the steering to the right stop and hold there under light pressure for approximately 5 seconds (the steering wheel should not be turned so hard as to activate the pressure relief valve). Repeat the procedure with the steering turned to the left stop.
Repeat 8 to 10 times to each side.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack. If no leaks are found, the oil on the steering rack may be from another source such as the power steering reservoir, hoses, sealing washers, etc.
A light accumulation of oil in the rack boots over an extended period should be considered normal and does not warrant replacement of the steering rack In such cases, the rack boots should be cleaned free of oil, reinstalled and the fluid level topped off. The vehicle should then be returned to the customer for normal use. In so doing, the rate of oil accumulation in the rack boots can be more efficiently determined and a possible mis-diagnosis avoided.
Repair Procedure (cont.):
Grease may be seen on the rack shaft or seals during the test. This is the lubricant used for initial assembly of the rack and must not be mistaken for an oil leak.
d. Whenever a steering rack is replaced, the two rubber bellows must be replaced and secured on the housing.
e. Whenever removing fittings or lines from the steering rack or pump, always replace the sealing washers.
The hose from the reservoir to the pump, the hose from the pump to the rack, and the hose from the rack to the reservoir*, all have to be flushed out with clean solvent to ensure that no foreign material is in the system. The oil reservoir must be replaced because it is not serviceable.
*The return line from the rack to the reservoir includes the oil cooler and is more easily cleaned in place on the car.
Good luck
Steve C
The Great White
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Are you sure you need a rack, I would check it first .
.
a. Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack housing and push aside.
b. Clean the steering rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
C. At an engine speed of approximately 1000 rpm, turn the steering to the right stop and hold there under light pressure for approximately 5 seconds (the steering wheel should not be turned so hard as to activate the pressure relief valve). Repeat the procedure with the steering turned to the left stop.
Repeat 8 to 10 times to each side.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack. If no leaks are found, the oil on the steering rack may be from another source such as the power steering reservoir, hoses, sealing washers, etc.
A light accumulation of oil in the rack boots over an extended period should be considered normal and does not warrant replacement of the steering rack In such cases, the rack boots should be cleaned free of oil, reinstalled and the fluid level topped off. The vehicle should then be returned to the customer for normal use. In so doing, the rate of oil accumulation in the rack boots can be more efficiently determined and a possible mis-diagnosis avoided.
Repair Procedure (cont.):
Grease may be seen on the rack shaft or seals during the test. This is the lubricant used for initial assembly of the rack and must not be mistaken for an oil leak.
d. Whenever a steering rack is replaced, the two rubber bellows must be replaced and secured on the housing.
e. Whenever removing fittings or lines from the steering rack or pump, always replace the sealing washers.
The hose from the reservoir to the pump, the hose from the pump to the rack, and the hose from the rack to the reservoir*, all have to be flushed out with clean solvent to ensure that no foreign material is in the system. The oil reservoir must be replaced because it is not serviceable.
*The return line from the rack to the reservoir includes the oil cooler and is more easily cleaned in place on the car.
Good luck
Steve C
The Great White
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
04-24-2002, 01:16 AM
#22
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Hello
I forgot a other thing.
It is important to make sure the steering rack is centered ( remove cap looking forward and look inside if you see a little drilled in cone where you normaly insert the fixing screw ).
The steering wheel is normaly centered to the same point.
If you mount the rack out center and aligne the track after that your tire can scratch inside the lower suspension arm on the full end and also your RDK sensor covers can run into the aluminium deflectorshield.
Grüsse
I forgot a other thing.
It is important to make sure the steering rack is centered ( remove cap looking forward and look inside if you see a little drilled in cone where you normaly insert the fixing screw ).
The steering wheel is normaly centered to the same point.
If you mount the rack out center and aligne the track after that your tire can scratch inside the lower suspension arm on the full end and also your RDK sensor covers can run into the aluminium deflectorshield.
Grüsse
04-24-2002, 05:07 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good stuff guys.
I can't (or won't) put the car up on jacks again for a while. It is not "drippin" - only there IS a faint wetness all around the rack and on the bellypans. The full steering fluid reservior amount went SOMEWHERE, so will have to figure that out. I refilled it will Amsoil AFT synthetic, and it has not gone down in level since.
Hmmmm.
BTW - anybody know how to make a rack-centering bolt?
I can't (or won't) put the car up on jacks again for a while. It is not "drippin" - only there IS a faint wetness all around the rack and on the bellypans. The full steering fluid reservior amount went SOMEWHERE, so will have to figure that out. I refilled it will Amsoil AFT synthetic, and it has not gone down in level since.
Hmmmm.
BTW - anybody know how to make a rack-centering bolt?
04-24-2002, 05:39 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Brendan,
I think the stock bolt is about $2.75 I'd just but it. If I was making one, I would take the size bolt for the hole and then grind a bit of a point on the tip so it can touch the dimple. I would prefer to use a nylon fastner as to not do any damage to the shaft. It is possible to center the rack visually. Center the dimple in the hole, set the steering wheel without moving the steering shaft. When I had my front end aligned after doing the rack/lower ball joints, I had the tech check the centering for me.
Greg
I think the stock bolt is about $2.75 I'd just but it. If I was making one, I would take the size bolt for the hole and then grind a bit of a point on the tip so it can touch the dimple. I would prefer to use a nylon fastner as to not do any damage to the shaft. It is possible to center the rack visually. Center the dimple in the hole, set the steering wheel without moving the steering shaft. When I had my front end aligned after doing the rack/lower ball joints, I had the tech check the centering for me.
Greg
04-24-2002, 07:32 PM
#25
Your steering rack will be more likely to leak with synthetic automatic transmission fluid in it than regular transmission fluid. That's because of the same reasons that the synthetic motor oil will leak compared to the dead dinosaur stuff.
04-24-2002, 07:38 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thats why I put it in. Well, not totally.
Initially, I was unsure if it was leaking at all, but it was very low, and the pump was cavitating, so I put the synth in. The sound, obviously, immediately disappeared, and the level has stayed even. Its actually kind of unsual in its order of occurance.
Initially, I was unsure if it was leaking at all, but it was very low, and the pump was cavitating, so I put the synth in. The sound, obviously, immediately disappeared, and the level has stayed even. Its actually kind of unsual in its order of occurance.
