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I was thinking about the Pilot bearing's life last night while cleaning crap off the old one to read the numbers.
The original Pilot bearing is a regular 6202 2Z C3 bearing.. I was wondering about sourcing a sealed bearing to use instead of the shielded one, to protect it from oil/water/dust.
Originally Posted by UKKid35
I've only just fitted the 1" rubber plug that covers the slave/arm access. Hopefully this will increase pilot bearing life, which in my case was less that 30k.
There is an easier way. Completely fill the cavity behind the pilot bearing with axle grease and drive a round shaft that is close in diameter to the pilot bearing hole into the hole.
Just looking at the picture you posted, it looks like the center bolt is intended to go down through that lower block. and wedge itself in between the two fingers right about where the screwdriver is wedged. After the bolt has the fingers wedged and secure, then tighten the nut to actually extract the bearing.
Am I reading the pic wrong?
Looking at Rob's picture I'ld say you were correct Dr Bob. In a similar fashion to the cone on the HF puller. But it looks to me as if the bolt in Rob's puller wouldn't go far enough down/in when used on the pilot bearing as the legs aren't far enough apart. This would leave the legs cantilevering a long way to maintain the side ways force in the inner race of the bearing which stops the "hooks" from slipping off.
FeeBee's grease method works OK IF the pilot is really close to the inner bearing diameter, and IF you gan get a good direct smack on the polot with a suitable mallette (think BFH...) The space in the housing doesn't allow much room to swing a large mallette.
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What's the pilot bearing number again? 202 or 203? Got an idea....
Here's a crappy pic of the bearing and the end of the bolt which doesn't do a good job of spreading the fingers. Looks like the bearing # is 6202C3. IIRC the I.D. of the race is almost exactly 15 mm, for those who want to machine a 14.9 mm rod with which to spew grease everywhere (which is what would happen if I tried the grease trick.....)
really, what about if the input shaft is spinning at the same speed as the flywheel? then it is not moving at all right? so, when the crank and flwheel are one, (clutch out). the drive shaft, input shaft, clutch flywheel and crank are all spinning as one (right?) so, the pilot bearing wouldnt be spinning
when the clutch is pressed in, the drive shaft and clutch can all be stopped , but the throwout bearing is spinning.
Do i have that right?
mk
Originally Posted by UKKid35
But the release bearing always spins at engine speed.
UK kid that plug looks like the plug for the bottom of the bell housing i thought you werte talking about a plug for the top of the bellhousing where the top of the clutch release fork is connected, thats the hole i am referring to as getting water going down it.
Mark the pilot bearing will spin whenever the clutch pedal is pressed in as this disconnects the drive from the pressure plate to the friction disc, the driveshaft is then free to slow down . the throw out bearing is spinning whenever the engines turrning
I just removed my pilot bearing using this method. Worked great. Thanks for posting. My bearing is the NTN bearing with PORSCHE logo. is that the orginal one, or can you still get them with Porsche logo? just trying to figure out if it had ever been done, because its still in good shape!
It would be unusual for it to be in good shape, I'm about 0 for 4 in _not_ having to swap one out. The bearing in Mark's '91 GT is graunchy as hell, it'll get swapped out before the motor goes back in the car.
Holy cow, the M8 bolt + 5mm hex trick worked beautifully- less than a minute, after struggling with the fancypants puller pulling out of the old bearing for a half hour...
I'm little shame on tell how I removed mine... you guys may think I'm a liar...
Asked help from a old school mechanic friend of mine and it took about 2 minutes (he has about 50 years in experience).
We used a piece of newspaper, one bolt (I think it was a M14 or M12), water and one hammer.
Fill the bearing hole with wet newspaper.With the bolt's head in the wet newspaper, hit the other side of the bolt keeping the newspaper always wet. The bearing will slowly moving out while the newspaper is filling the gap between the bearing and crankshaft housing.
So far I haven't had any difficulty to remove bearings with this tool. Been using it for over 10 years and on multible bearings, both fully intack and just outer race remaining inside crank cases.
01-22-2008, 02:41 PM
