StratfordShark

A good afternoon working on intake R&R today - by the time I'd finished both fuel rails were off. I'm pretty much sticking to David Chamberland's excellent write-up in terms of sequence, but also drawing on Fred Rourke's tips.

A few comments for anyone doing this job (like me) for first time:

- when you disconnect the LHS rail at the front damper, look out for the front knock sensor connector directly beneath. I was careless and managed to break the male connector. Luckily this is the sensor side of the connector, and I have new knock sensors to fit anyway.

- the Bosch 2 pole connector tool is generally brilliant for the injector connectors. But on the RHS it's hard to get it in position on the 1 and 4 injectors, so I just used forceps-like long-nosed pliers which were fine for getting a firm grip on the female connector.

- was just a little too enthusiastic removing the No 8 injector connector with the tool, and have slightly torn the insulation just behind the pigtail. The inner insulation is sound though so will just wrap some electrical tape round this.

- it helped to remove the blue harness clips along the fuel rails before disconnecting injectors, as you can then create a bit more space for the tool to get access. The clips were very brittle but I wasn't worried about breaking them as I'd got spares when I got all the hoses, gaskets etc. They are very easy to break.

- I decided to leave the injectors in the manifold so removed the circlips at the top holding them to rail. I then sprayed lubricant to the top seals, then used a small pry bar (protecting valve covers) and worked back and forth along the rails. After a couple of trips up and down rail and applying not too much force, the rails popped free.

- I went through the faff of removing the undertrays in case I dropped anything, but so far have lost nothing and am resenting the time I spent removing the trays and time to put them back on in future!

- Before starting the job I ran the engine and pulled the fuel pump fuse. Hoped this would empty most of the fuel but there was still a fair bit in the rails when I disconnected them from the front damper especially.

- I'm glad I fitted a fuel pressure gauge. With all the fuel system connections involved and seating of injectors, I'm nervous that the whole thing will go up in flames when it's back together. At least the gauge will show up a leak quickly as I plan to jumper the pump relay and check for leaks before cranking the engine.

- the overhead view of the injectors left in the manifold makes my bay look cruddier than it is (the overall view shows it's not concourse, but reasonably tidy)! It's mostly from the old, burnt foam which just disintegrates off the rails. Will clean everything up when the manifold is off. I'm glad I left injectors in as the foam falls around the injectors.

Quick questions:

- I think my dampers/regulator are OK but they are original. I do lose fuel pressure too fast after shutdown but have checked the regulator and check valve which are ok, so I'm pretty sure some injectors leak (I have a new set of Ford Motorsport injectors and o-rings). Should I replace the regulator and both dampers now as PM? The front fuel hose also looks fine.

- I'm glad I have new knock sensors having broken the connector of one. In fact the front one had a few inches of insulation missing at the connector end. This only exposes a ground sheath though, so would this missing insulation have caused any power decrease in past?

Tomorrow I'm going to get the manifold off and head into the valley!

bfellows

Any links to these tips and write ups? You're half way through my next job!

StratfordShark

The Chamberland pdf is at:

http://www.928intl.com/repair/intake1b.pdf

Fred Rourke's is on the Pirtle site:

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/z...t_manifold.txt

Could never have considered doing the job without at least one of these.

BPG_Austin

Awesome! I just did this last week and am doing reassembly now. Looks familiar! When you pull the intake up off the motor look out for all the little connections underneath. They'll get stuck and prevent you from pulling the intake off. Its heavy, so use caution when pulling it out. I had to gently prop my intake up a few inches off the block then disengage the remaing sensors/reroute the things that are blocking the intake from being pulled off. Actually, come to think of it, I rested the intake on the studs they came off of. that was enough clearance to get at things. I'm no expert here, but that worked for me.
My insulation disintegrated as well while removing. had to shop vac it out.. I think if you search there is some posts on insulating the fuel rails with stuff from Home Depot.

Ben

StratfordShark

Hi Ben,

Your beautiful intake pic is making me think very hard about having mine repainted when it's off. Is it possible to do this with the flappy valve still in there?

Good to know you've been here and are coming out the other side! Thanks for the tips on disconnections while manifold propped up. I was thinking of getting some wood blocks, or mabe just cur up some plastic pipe to support it while I finish disconnections.

I've seen the post about using insulation from Home Depot. But it looks like that would make it impossible to replace the plastic fuel rail shrouds given the extra thickness?

I'd asked about the foam insulation recently and the consensus here was that it just cuts down a bit of noise from the injectors and most people have just left it off. Another alternative which I will probably follow is that the newer rail covers (possibly for GTS?) have the foam integral to the cover.

I don't think my wife would be pleased if I used her vac to clean out the foam/crud, so may have to hire one...

bfellows

Thanks for the links!

BPG_Austin

Yup, we're definately in the same boat. After you get your intake off we'll be nearly in the same place. Thanks for the foam info, I may just skip the insulation if its only noise reduction.. I'd use impact sockets to prop things up if I had em.. A rennlister suggested that in a post I read. Your pipe idea sounds like it should work great also. As far as painting the intake etc, its been a PITA. The flappy valve comes off with 2 allens but the metal circle needs a bit more. (c clip on top and two screws will remove the circle, then slide the shaft out) If you're not mediablasting the intake i believe you can leave it on. I did and used chemical stripper and lots of patience. I did blast the valve covers and intake sides and the original coating on the intake is THICK. It does not want to come off. I powerwashed, scrubbed, scraped.... The finished product is worth it though. Just hope it starts up and runs as good as it looks. Keep the pictures coming!

Bill Ball

If you lose fuel pressure rapidly, then the FP gauge is not going to do you any good for detecting leaks. Use your eyes and nose anyway.

If you lose pressure rapidly, it could be the check valve on the filter, the fuel pressure regulator or a leaky injector. The WSM has a procedure for isolating this. See below.

The knock sensor with a little missing insulation is probably working fine. But there is now way to know for sure short of a Hammer/Spanner/Theo's 9218 Diagnostic test.

StratfordShark

Hi Bill,

Thanks for posting the wsm procedure. In fact I had worked through this which is why I think the problem (it shows up as warm start problem) is leaky injectors.

Stupid of me but I forgot that I have used the JDS Spanner in past (one of first things I bought for the car), and it's never showed up any knock sensor problems. Wills till be good to replace both though as PM after all this time.

I'll be sure to be extra-vigilant about possible fuel leaks, and will have someone stand by with extinguisher once it's passed visual/smell inspection!

Bill Ball

Oh, yes, definitely replace the knock sensors even if they test good at the moment, carefully torqing them as the WSM instructs.

You don't necessarily need a fire extinguisher when you check for leaks. With the car off and cold, have someone temporarily power up the fuel pump by pulling the fuel pump relay and jumpering the socket pin 87 to pin 30. Get a flashlight and look carefully at all the fuel line fittings, hose connections, fuel rail to injector joints and the fuel injector bodies (I had an injector body spring a leak at a seam). Run your finger or a paper towel under each fitting looking for wetness. Leave the FP running for a few minutes, as long as you find no leaks. If things stay dry and you smell no fuel, that should do it. Stan should be checking in here soon to remind you to replace all the fuel hoses too WYAIT!

the flyin' scotsman

Seems like there's a few of us doing this project at the same time.

I'm also following Daves great write up; I found that after being able to raise the intake a few inches I good get at the wiring connectors for the TPS and ISV not so difficult. I was paranoid re. dropping anything down the cyl. heads so as soon as the intake was off I stuffed rags in each hole. I have also removed the oil filler...........at first to R&R the gasket but now I'm thinking the entire filler should be replaced.

I tested the ISV with a 12v source and it functions well; you should do same.

I'm replacing all gaskets and hoses, knock sensors, the oil filler and had the fuel injectors cleaned and tested. Depending on weather I may do the valve covers.

StratfordShark

Well I didn't have as much time as I hoped today to work on the intake, so the main job completed was removal of the 10 manifold nuts, compression washers and rubber washers. I also disconnected the breather hoses from the RHS cam cover.

Despite having a very modest spec torque, all the nuts were on very tight after 20 years habit and I needed a small breaker bar to break them loose.
The only problem (apart from having to use different sockets/u-joints/gear wrenches to undo the nuts - they all seem to have their own personality <g>) was with the nut at the LHS rear.

It sits right under the rear fuel damper. The thread which connects to the fuel rail just prevents a socket going on the nut from above. The Chamberland write-up says this damper is attached to a bracket which is in turn secured by allen bolt. The RHD cars must be different though. there's no allen bolt, but there is a 13mm head bolt through the back of the damper which holds it to bracket through a slot. This bolt head is also tricky to access as it sits right behind the RHS rear tract of the intake. The PET confirms that this is an attachment bolt and not a vital part of the damper! If I'm wrong then may have to spring for new damper...

I got a slim wrench onto this (after first soaking in P-Blaster) and tried to loosen it. In fact it stuck fast and the whole bracket bent slightly by a few mm, enough to let me get a socket onto the nut. I need to be careful to bend it back to same place on re-install as I want the fuel rail connection to be just as it was originally.

Not quite home and dry though as the bracket for one of the airbox threaded supports sits on this stud. On the RHS the matching bracket just lifts off when you get the nut off, but on LHS the bracket is also held down by bolt which is also blocked by the damper! In other words the bracket must be freed to lift the manifold off this stud.

Has anyone else encountered this? I'm hoping that once I've removed the MAF there will be plenty of room to get a wrench on this bolt.

The pics show the damper from above (showing how the manifold nut is blocked) and from the side (showing the bolt attaching it to slot in bracket).

Malcolm as far as the ISV goes I know mine works OK from the diagnostic 'spanner', but I bought a brand new one anyway to justify doing all this work! Saves me cleaning the old one which will make something on eBay anyway I hope.

the flyin' scotsman

Don't be so concerned re. the bracket............loosen the bolt that secures the damper which allows movement in the slotted bracket. when installing the fuel rails loosely attach the assembly then retighten the damper bolt.

StratfordShark

Thanks for that advice Malcolm - the bolt securing the damper didn't want to turn before but once I have the manifold off I can get a better tool on it.

Am I correct in thinking I have to unbolt the airbox bracket (the bolt head is visible directly below the damper securing bolt in this photo)?

Adrian

UKKid35

The other great pictoral write up is by David Schmidt

http://www.tower-mt.com/pics/davids_gt/Flapectomy-1/