StratfordShark

Wow that throttle body looks clean! How did you get it that clean, or is it new?

the flyin' scotsman

Dont panic..........the rubber bumper screws into the tbody; get the broken piece out and replace:



how did you do that????????

kidding; my tbody is same; its a casting matter.

the flyin' scotsman

where on the tbody was it attached?

StratfordShark

Right underneath the throttle body Malcolm. I pulled it out of the elbow arrowed in the pic.

Adrian

worf928

Four Allen bolts hold down the bridge. They bolt the bridge and secure the dampener and bits and brackets. So the answer to both your questions above is 'yes.' Soak them in penetrant, take pictures of the bolts relative to the brackets so you can replace them exactly, and then turn them out. There are 5 gaskets/o-rings in the crossover. There is a two-stage recipe for torquing them when you bolt the bridge back in with its new gaskets.

It has been a while since I've done the crossover with the engine full of coolant but I think the answer is no - you don't need to drain the rad. But, you'll need to drain the bridge. Put a pan under the upper hose where it meets the radiator, pop the hose off, drain the hose. That will also drain most of the cross over and some of the reservoir. Reattach the upper hose, disconnect the lower hose from the 'elbow', drain it a little and tie it out of the way.

When you pop the crossover off, make sure the ports for the filler neck and intake are covered.

In for a penny in for a pound? Or, is that, over the pond: in for a farthing in for a shilling? Or pence wise pound foolish? Sure you can leave it. But why? It's four bolts, about $20 worth of gaskets (+a few bucks for a new thermostat), and should take less than an hour (the hard part is getting the gasket out that is inside the bridge where the thermostat rests.)

StratfordShark

[QUOTE=the flyin' scotsman;5023321]Dont panic..........the rubber bumper screws into the tbody; get the broken piece out and replace:




Fantastic!

But on the PET for the throttle it's not shown as a separate part. How will I determine which part to order.

Maybe it's the same as the 10mm stud bumpers which support the airbox? They are shown on PET.

StratfordShark

Do I have to drain the radiator so as to remove the hoses or does the entire system have to be drained.[/QUOTE]

It has been a while since I've done the crossover with the engine full of coolant but I think the answer is no - you don't need to drain the rad. But, you'll need to drain the bridge. Put a pan under the upper hose where it meets the radiator, pop the hose off, drain the hose. That will also drain most of the cross over and some of the reservoir. Reattach the upper hose, disconnect the lower hose from the 'elbow', drain it a little and tie it out of the way.

When you pop the crossover off, make sure the ports for the filler neck and intake are covered.



In for a penny in for a pound? Or, is that, over the pond: in for a farthing in for a shilling? Or pence wise pound foolish? Sure you can leave it. But why? It's four bolts, about $20 worth of gaskets (+a few bucks for a new thermostat), and should take less than an hour (the hard part is getting the gasket out that is inside the bridge where the thermostat rests.)[/QUOTE]



Thanks so much for detailed instructions Dave.

Honest I wasn't begrudging the cost, I was just worried that it was a bigger job and coolant would have to be drained. Your instructions make me feel it's do-able even if I would take me more than an hour!

Are you suggesting t-stat change as a WYIT? I changed mine last summer including the sealant gasket that sits in the crossover.

Will have to think of best way of covering the intake ports. When I started this job I ordered the oil filler and intake covers together with all the other parts, but they only sent me the oil cover by mistake and haven't yet sent the intake covers. Maybe jsut some very thick duct tape stuck over them?

ps we would also say "penny wise, pound foolish", but an alternative British expression you may like is "why spoil the ship for a ha'pworth of tar?" which is pretty apt as we're discussing waterproofing!

worf928

Turn out the remainder of the broken one and compare it with the air box support. They are probably the same or differ only in the length of one of the studs. There are several variations of these double-headed bumpers that differ only in the length of the studs.

If both of the studs of an air box bumper are vastly different then I'd guess that this part from an 85's throttle body is a close match (928 110 191 00).

worf928

In that case no. And you have two less gaskets you need. You won't even have to bother unbolting the elbow.

The critical holes would be the oil hole and the intake ports for #1 and #5. You'd have to try really hard to get coolant into the ports for the other cylinders.

I like that one!

StratfordShark

Thanks Dave - going back in the garage now to try to turn out the old one. I'll compare the intact one with the airbox studs.

the flyin' scotsman

That vacuum port is for the air pump diverter valve on cars with cats............on North American cars its located near the passenger side cyl. head...........your car may not have cats or an air pump so this can be plugged/left as is.

the flyin' scotsman

For fun I did also; I'd dare to say they are the same; for sure they're threaded the same...............so order a couple up.

StratfordShark

Turned out the remains of the old one. The air box supports have offset studs where the two threaded sections are not in line. I'll get hold of one of the 85 parts you suggest and adapt that if necessary.

the flyin' scotsman

Adrian.............you may want to check that with a vendor of new parts; my air box studs look very straight.

StratfordShark

Will do Malcolm. The ones on my airbox studs are offset - the rubber parts are even slanted over - but the airbox fitting has a lot of leeway as the other supports are on the CO test port tubes which can move quite a bit.

Maybe the design changed?

I'll order one and the 85 one mentioned when I get the coolant bridge gaskets.