StratfordShark

Doh! I have both of those Marton and will try this approach and the other suggestions here tomorrow. Will try the ratchet head first as I don't think there's room for the right angle screwdriver between the breather clamp and the hose above (but I should be able to pull this if necessary).

If by any chance I don't succeed I will be resorting to amputation...

It's tantalising to be so close to lifting the intake and seeing the valley in all its filthy glory. Can see a lot of crud in the bottom...

Rob Edwards

Adrian-

When I removed my intake (uh, the 2nd time), I just freed the tri-Y hose from the breather and the filler neck, and just gently stuffed them back through the opening under the LHS coolant crossover, leaving it connected to the throttle body until it was on the bench (see pic)

If the old hose is too baked and stiff to fold it through, just cut it in half and be done with it- you're replacing it anyway (928.107.603.00), right?

StratfordShark

Hi Rob,

Sounds like you really enjoy intake jobs!

I'm going to try your eminently sensible suggestion first thing tomorrow. The old tri-hose is probably the original but still feels rubbery so should push through fine. Yes I am replacing it but I just wanted to try and do things right. I shouldn't be so precious and just cut through the darn thing!

Your photo is inspiring. I'm probably not painting my intake but your new hoses look great.

worf928

If you're going to replace the hose, just cut it and be done with it. When you put the new hose on the throttle body make sure that that hose clamp is oriented so that you can get a screw drive to it from the side of the intake.

Damn. I've done a bunch of S4 intake jobs and have never seen that hose clamp oriented that way. Someone must have attached that hose the the throttle-body while it was separated from the plenum.

StratfordShark

Well the intake is off and clear of the car!

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this far. Must say the idea of reversing some of the electrical, vac and hose disconnections you have to do with intake raised - and getting everything routed correctly - is daunting! Deal with that when the time comes.

First observations:

- how did all that stuff get into the vee? In particular who's been nibbling nuts in that cosy spot?

- the rubber looks pretty good considering. I'm replacing all of it but nothing feels brittle or crumbly, and I can't see any cracks.

- the manifold is full of carbon/soot. Will be fun cleaning it all out.

- it's cool the way the cylinder numbers are embossed into the vee!

- after removing the manifold I discovered the breather clamp I couldn't access because it was pointing straight up was in fact not tight. I could push it round with finger pressure! Must have worked its way vertical with vibration. Feel very stupid for not even thinking of trying to twist it round before (I amputated the hose).

Do you think I should renew the oil filler gasket? No pools of oil but it feels like I can squeeze out very tiny quantities of oil when I move the filler.

Going to start cleaning the v now, then take the throttle body and sides off the manifold.

BPG_Austin

Your knock sensors look FAR better than mine. if you can see in the picture, mine had crumbled so far that you couldn't see the black coating over them. suprisingly the were functioning just fine still.. I'm rerouting/removing/replacing vac lines now, its a little confusing. This post and assiciated pictures are helping out.

StratfordShark

Hey that looks familiar!

I wonder if our chilly northern europe climate is kinder to hoses/sensors than places where it gets hotter?

Can see some carbon build up in your inlet tracts though not much. Haven't checked mine yet as I suffed rags in as soon as the inlet could lift.

I have a lot to clean and a lot of parts to replace so this could be a long job.

BPG_Austin

Cheers. My baby's been in the garage nearly a month now. Seems if I don't take an 8 hr day off of work nothing gets done.. Hard to wrench an hour at a time.

the flyin' scotsman

Congrats it getting it off............hopefully you did a victory dance.

You cannot remove the oil filler once the intake is in place so unless you intend to go back in there anytime soon I'd at least replace the gasket. I'm also replacing the filler itself as being plastic it may have slightly warped.

As far as cleaning goes I used brake cleaner and varsol (paint thinner).........does a good job on the vee but be careful of the fumes.

worf928

As Malcolm said: Yes. This, of course, under the assumption that you have things you'd rather do than pull the intake again. The oil filler neck gasket is a common leak point. You can check the oil filler neck for warping if you have some known flat surface against which to test the neck's bottom opening.

Now, while you are in there () another common leak point is a large o-ring between the block and the coolant crossover bridge. The crossover is easy to remove now. Harder later when the intake is in place. Find the 'elbow' that feeds the lower radiator hose. Follow it from underneath, up to the bridge and then down to a circular junction with the block. See any signs of coolant? Look to the right of junction between the bridge and the block. There are two wells in the block to the right of the junction. Are they filled with coolant?

StratfordShark

Guilty as charged Dave. There is some coolant in one of the wells, and a ring of coolant around the o-ring.

What's involved in removing the coolant bridge? Do I have to drain the radiator so as to remove the hoses or does the entire system have to be drained.

Also would you happen to know which bolts need removing to lift the coolant bridge? It's a little hard for me to tell which hold the bridge down and which are just holding brackets for the fuel damper and fuel line.

Ther's only a small amount of coolant. Could I get away with leaving it?

bfellows

Thanks for such a great write up so far..... I can only say that the thought of carrying this job out fills me with dread! Think i'll wait till the autumn and spend the summer chasing 997s....

StratfordShark

Well at some point I had to screw something up.

I have a brand new ISV which I won't be fitting for some time, but I wanted to take the old ISV off the throttle body before I started cleaning the latter.

The ISV is bolted on with 2 10mm nuts, which bolt onto studs with rubber 'bumpers' which are attached to the throttle body. One nut came off fine, but I managed to split the rubber bumper on the other one so some of the bumper came off with the stud! I should have let the nut soak longer in penetrant, but as soon as I put force on the wrench it split.

My concern is that with only one nut, the ISV wobbles a bit. When all the hoses are reattached though that will hold it more firmly in place. Even so I'm worried that the single nut will work loose, and the ISV just hang from the hoses!

Any thoughts on re-attaching the new ISV securely given this problem? Can I get a separate bumper/stud part and glue it in place after scraping off the old one? Should I be considering buying a new or used throttle body with both studs present and correct (I see 928 Intl sells the used ones for $250, what would a new one cost assuming they're available?).

Finally I noticed a small amount of metal missing in the old throttle body. It's not where any air could leak, but it surprised me that the metal could just decay like that!

StratfordShark

Just curious about the purpose of what seems to be a throttle vacuum test point.

There's a semi-transparent vac line which is attached to the underside of the throttle body, and which I removed before lifting the intake.

The other end of the line (near airbox on RHS) is just capped off. Presumably it's a test point, but exactly which procedures in the WSM use this test point?

ibkevin

I enjoyed my R&R job.