Intake R&R progress
01-22-2008, 08:21 PM
#16
Drifting
Thanks for that advice Malcolm - the bolt securing the damper didn't want to turn before but once I have the manifold off I can get a better tool on it.
Am I correct in thinking I have to unbolt the airbox bracket (the bolt head is visible directly below the damper securing bolt in this photo)?
Adrian
Am I correct in thinking I have to unbolt the airbox bracket (the bolt head is visible directly below the damper securing bolt in this photo)?
Adrian
01-22-2008, 08:58 PM
#17
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Yup, we're definately in the same boat. After you get your intake off we'll be nearly in the same place. Thanks for the foam info, I may just skip the insulation if its only noise reduction.. I'd use impact sockets to prop things up if I had em.. A rennlister suggested that in a post I read. Your pipe idea sounds like it should work great also. As far as painting the intake etc, its been a PITA. The flappy valve comes off with 2 allens but the metal circle needs a bit more. (c clip on top and two screws will remove the circle, then slide the shaft out) If you're not mediablasting the intake i believe you can leave it on. I did and used chemical stripper and lots of patience. I did blast the valve covers and intake sides and the original coating on the intake is THICK. It does not want to come off. I powerwashed, scrubbed, scraped.... The finished product is worth it though. Just hope it starts up and runs as good as it looks. Keep the pictures coming!
01-22-2008, 09:41 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
I did; undo the intake nut then the bolt which holds both the damper bracket and the air box bracket...........be careful as the bolt and its partner are in the water jacket; I put them back in situ as soon as all was off.
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 01-22-2008 at 10:27 PM.
01-23-2008, 05:31 AM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
No worries...........but see answer for 2nd question
I did; undo the intake nut then the bolt which holds both the damper bracket and the air box bracket...........be careful as the bolt and its partner are in the water jacket; I put them back in situ as soon as all was off.
I did; undo the intake nut then the bolt which holds both the damper bracket and the air box bracket...........be careful as the bolt and its partner are in the water jacket; I put them back in situ as soon as all was off.
Adrian
01-23-2008, 05:55 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Hi Adrian
If enough insulation falls off the knock sesnor leads for the braid to rub on the cam cover/block, this crreates electrical noise which the EZK will "think" is a possible problem, and the ingtion will be reatrded by 6 deg at med-high loads and rpm. So you are quite correct to change the knock sensors while you are in there.
I would strongly recommend having your injectors ultrasonically cleaned while you have everything apart. Google on "ASNU" for a franchisee in your area, and then compare his price (about 12GBP per injector I think) with the price of a new set of Ford Motorsport equivalents.
If you need any new 2 or 3 way conenctors I can supply.
Good luck !
If enough insulation falls off the knock sesnor leads for the braid to rub on the cam cover/block, this crreates electrical noise which the EZK will "think" is a possible problem, and the ingtion will be reatrded by 6 deg at med-high loads and rpm. So you are quite correct to change the knock sensors while you are in there.
I would strongly recommend having your injectors ultrasonically cleaned while you have everything apart. Google on "ASNU" for a franchisee in your area, and then compare his price (about 12GBP per injector I think) with the price of a new set of Ford Motorsport equivalents.
If you need any new 2 or 3 way conenctors I can supply.
Good luck !
01-23-2008, 07:14 AM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hi John,
Thanks for the good luck charm!
Reassuring to know that the new knock sensors won't be wasted.
On the injectors before I started this I got hold of a new set of the Ford ones from Summit for $230 including the postage, so not too far above the price of cleaning. I would still be curious to know the state of the existing injectors though. I wonder if it's possible to just get a report from one of the ASNU people? I'd bookmarked a site before (I think it was Humberside?) so will check back with them.
Thanks for offering to source the connectors. I got a couple of new spares (the ones where you just press the clip to release, though I must say the Bosch tool works well) but only 2 way, so good to know I can get more from you.
Back to the garage now...
Adrian
Thanks for the good luck charm!
Reassuring to know that the new knock sensors won't be wasted.
On the injectors before I started this I got hold of a new set of the Ford ones from Summit for $230 including the postage, so not too far above the price of cleaning. I would still be curious to know the state of the existing injectors though. I wonder if it's possible to just get a report from one of the ASNU people? I'd bookmarked a site before (I think it was Humberside?) so will check back with them.
Thanks for offering to source the connectors. I got a couple of new spares (the ones where you just press the clip to release, though I must say the Bosch tool works well) but only 2 way, so good to know I can get more from you.
Back to the garage now...
Adrian
01-23-2008, 07:39 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
Hi Adrian
If you scroll down this page there are quite a few agents close to you http://www.asnu.com/midlands.htm
I always have 2 and 3 pole, male and female connectors in stock.
On the injector and temp 2 conenctors, peel back the rubber boots and confirm that the insulation hasn't fallen off the wires inside, leaving the posibility of shorts. If the wire feels very brittle on first inspection, then it's worth peeling back the boot for further investigation.
You generally can't release the pins in order to remove the plastic housing because Porsche heat staked the pins into the plastic. But I expect you have discovered this already :-)
If you scroll down this page there are quite a few agents close to you http://www.asnu.com/midlands.htm
I always have 2 and 3 pole, male and female connectors in stock.
On the injector and temp 2 conenctors, peel back the rubber boots and confirm that the insulation hasn't fallen off the wires inside, leaving the posibility of shorts. If the wire feels very brittle on first inspection, then it's worth peeling back the boot for further investigation.
You generally can't release the pins in order to remove the plastic housing because Porsche heat staked the pins into the plastic. But I expect you have discovered this already :-)
01-23-2008, 08:33 AM
#23
Drifting
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what do you mean by "in the water jacket"
I know I once did have a coolant leak from a bolt that was in a head under the inlet plenum. I had to fix the bolt hole but i do not remember which bolt any more
Marton
01-23-2008, 09:07 AM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
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what do you mean by "in the water jacket"
I know I once did have a coolant leak from a bolt that was in a head under the inlet plenum. I had to fix the bolt hole but i do not remember which bolt any more
Marton
Just popped in from garage so thanks for timely warning - just getting to that bit!
Have removed the throttle cable from the throttle body. In one write-up I read it took the writer an hour of tugging so I was prepared for the worst. In fact with good lighting from the back of the engine bay I could pry it off with a long screwdriver poked through manifold legs. It took ajust a couple of minutes.
I also confirmed that I could pop it back on! This is actually trickier. I put it on by hand then use very long pliers - again through manifold legs - to squeeze it back on. I think the other tricky thing here is making sure the throttle cable is correctly threaded round the pulley. It has a lot of slack with the throttle bracket off the plenum so it's easy for it to fall off and be forgotten.
01-23-2008, 09:12 AM
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
So do you mean you can't easily remove the pins from the male connector just by depressing the barbs?
Does this mean that if I want to replace any connectors I just have to break them up around the pins?
Thanks for the tip about the insulation. I think to save manipulating the boot - and maybe doing some damage - I'll check the pins for a short with a meter first while wiggling the boot. This should show up any shorts waiting to happen when there's vibration during running.
01-23-2008, 10:04 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
No I didn't John but thanks for brightening my day even more <g>!
So do you mean you can't easily remove the pins from the male connector just by depressing the barbs?
Does this mean that if I want to replace any connectors I just have to break them up around the pins?
Thanks for the tip about the insulation. I think to save manipulating the boot - and maybe doing some damage - I'll check the pins for a short with a meter first while wiggling the boot. This should show up any shorts waiting to happen when there's vibration during running.
So do you mean you can't easily remove the pins from the male connector just by depressing the barbs?
Does this mean that if I want to replace any connectors I just have to break them up around the pins?
Thanks for the tip about the insulation. I think to save manipulating the boot - and maybe doing some damage - I'll check the pins for a short with a meter first while wiggling the boot. This should show up any shorts waiting to happen when there's vibration during running.
You can usually assess the condition of the wire insulation by how stiff it has become with the heat, and how far the stiffness extends.
If the wire insulation is very broken up with the heat, you're going to cut the wire back into the cableform by an inch or so to get to more pliable wires, so you can just chop the old connector off. There's usually enough slack in the harness to allow for some shortening to fit a new connector.
01-23-2008, 10:38 AM
#27
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Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 01-23-2008 at 10:53 AM.
01-23-2008, 11:05 AM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Malcolm. Have just taken it out and there were a few drops of coolant. Replaced the bolt but would not have thought about sealant for the final re-assembly if you hadn't mentioned it.
01-23-2008, 12:39 PM
#29
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Also, on post-89 models the pictured hex bolt towards the centerline of the engine is replaced by an Allen bolt. This makes it far easier to remove so as to loosen the port cover to get the dampener out of the way so you can remove the intake nut and then remove the air box support so you can lift off the intake. Whew...
01-23-2008, 01:01 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
My car has an Allen bolt in that location also; perhaps a late '88MY change.
I didn't remove the cover so assume the undisturbed paper gasket is good but did observe coolant leaking from the bolt hole.
Lots of 'stuff' to remove in that corner just to get the last part of the intake off.
I didn't remove the cover so assume the undisturbed paper gasket is good but did observe coolant leaking from the bolt hole.
Lots of 'stuff' to remove in that corner just to get the last part of the intake off.