wg928

Ma does not understand why my '88 continues to idle for a couple of minutes after I take out the ignition key!!! Strange but true.The accessories go off right away normally though; I tried a wd40 wash inside the keyway still no change, sometimes more than 3 minutes before it will shut down, seldom right away, time varies however, it always stop. I'm in the preliminary diagnosis stage, seems buss 15 may be holding power from the switch gut or the alternator is upholding the run system tempororily through a sticking relay. I'm posting to field the liklihood that someone else may have come across this 928 gremlin before and found the cause.

perrys4

My old AMC Javelin would do this. You could pull the key driving down the road and it staye dthe same, the ignition still turn the car on and off though when you turned the key. Be sure to post your findings!

Alan

Its the ignition switch.

BTW the switch is seperate from the key part - not directly connected - so no oil in the lock will get to the switch. It woudn't really help anyway. Time for a new switch part <$60.

Alan

6mil928

Mine will do that for I would guess 2-3 Seconds. I always thought it was strange. If it went 2-3 minutes I would be replacing something.

wg928

if it is the switch; can replacement be done without pod removal?

Lizard928

No,
However I would swap the main relay as I have seen sticky relays cause this same issue.

Alan

There is no "Main Relay" what runs the car comes from the ignition switch. Multiple other relays would have to stay on for this to happen (controlled by the ignition switch).

Some incorrectly installed aftermarket additions could cause the ignition to stay on - have you added an alarm or other such with relays? Or done any "creative" fixes to anything else (you have to be honest here...)

Alan

6mil928

If Alan says it you can believe it

wg928

no strange aftermarkets, recently did the megablau leds from Nicole also changed the steering wheel. I hoped pod removal was avoidable.

MGW-Fla

I've changed an ignition switch before without removing the pod, so it can be done. Its not easy to reach the top screw & you have to have a small angled screwdriver. If you have large hands though forget it cause even with small hands its still a tight fit. But it can be done cause I did it myself.

This is not always the answer though for your particular problem. If you do a search you'll find others have had the same problem of the car running with the switch off & replacing the ignition switch did not cure the problem. In the sister post to this one about your very same car & your problem, there is a reply about the delay on the rear window heater switch potentially being the culprit. Stuck relays from water intrusion in the CE panel also cause the situation too. Seems those have been some of the gremlins others have had causing the run on situation with the key off. I think there is more than one potential cause for this situation. But what do I know........ Good Luck!

Lizard928

for the 15 min it takes to pull the pod and put it back, I wouldnt even attempt it esp with the fact that some of those screws have been really tough (loctited), I wouldnt want to strip it.

MGW-Fla

I can understand that, just wanted to say that it can be done is all because I've done it, .....if someone decided they did want to attempt it.

wg928

this advice/info is great, I will try the various approaches b 4 I get the switch out, funny, but laziness has stopped me from employing my many years of electronic/electrical experience.... looking for the quick fix here through everyone elses experience is eye opening, I like the heater switch consideration especially after the recent pod r & r. I did not think the water inlet cause would hit because my cars are super garage queens, seldom out for a wash, I will definitely post the "FIND" as soon as I get it. I have a more pressing concern with the new intermittent Park and Reverse selector lockout, could not back out of the garage for the maryland gtg, movements N-2 ok but it would not go back to R & P, it's always something with the girls

mj1pate

The PO from whom I bought my 86.5 in Northern california had a similar problem with his '87, but the cause was insidious. Fan fuse heat had melted the main central fuse panel enough so that fuse panel contacts/traces were touching, visible on the fuse panel back side. He described the circumstance in some detail, but this kind of damage can be easily inspected by removing the central fuse panel and conducting an advisably periodic inspection anyway.

Mike

Alan

From my experience the most common culprits for this are aftermarket add on's - especially remote starters - which by their nature tend to control the ignition power directly.

Generally the factory relays use the ignition (15) to control the coils and feed the contacts directly from the battery (30) supply. For this kind of failure you need a short between 15 & 30 this is difficult to have happen based on the factory relay configurations. Aftermarket add-on relays are sometimes wired very strangely.

Of course anything is possible and internal relay shorts, wiring issues on the CE panel or elsewhere are possibilities too... I'd start with replacing the switch - or try testing it by wiggling it in the off position when the car is running on. Alternatively - before you replace it - pull the connector off the back of the switch when it is running on - did the car continue to run... If it does - it isn't the switch at fault.

Alan