Wilson

I'm working blndly,waiting on manuals.

It is my understanding that if the warning light remains illuminated then you must diagnose the problem at the earliest convenience, however if the warning light starts blinking, then we need to not run the car and have the problem fixed, is that right?

if so then what do I need to fix as my "BRAKE PR" light is blinking with my warning light.

thanks in advance for the reply,

John Struthers

Wilson,
Same here. Started last week.
You have one of two things happening.
A short in one of the brake pad wear sensors and the brake pads aren't involved.
You have four (4) of them.
Or,your brake pads are worn and the sensors wore thru and shorted out as they were designed to do.
A wake up call...warning if you will.
I ordered new OEM pads from 928 International friday, early AM. They did a two-day Fed Ex.
My cost was around $90.00 including shipping.
I got them this morning . A fellow rennlist member saw my post about Pattycakes demanding attention in the way of parts - she just started this behavior-.
In any case, he happened to have a set -4- of brand new sensors with receipt.
2 each front sensors (79'- 85')
P/N 928.612.315.01, $25.90
2 each rear sensors P/N 928.612.313.01, $29.90
total list was $63.30 including freight.
I paid $30.00 for all four of them, really nice of the guy. And pleasant for me also!
If you do your own work: you need to jack her up or put her on a lift. See which sensor is worn thru, and check the others for wear/damage.
then check around... Dozman, is parting a sHARk that has fallen upon hard times. See page two - one page back> - . If he can't help go to the Big Three.
I don't use my brakes all that much but checked the rotors daily while waiting for the parts.
If you hear a hissing/light screeching/dragging sound. You might want to park her, REAL FAST!
HTH,
Later,
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Kevin in Atlanta

FWIW,

BRAKE PR = Brake Pressure.

Flashing ! is not good.

jpitman

BRake PR means a difference in pressure in the two circuits has been detected. There are two stop light type switches on the master/cyl. IFF (if and only if) you have no fluid losses anywhere (including inside the booster where you cant see), it is probably an elextrical malfunction. Try disconnecting the m/cyl switches 1 at a time, and see if it goes away. To clear the ! warning, disconnect battery for a few minutes. Disconnect a switch, reconnect battery, see if problem has gone. If you disconnect both switches you will have NO brake lights, so you cant do that. Usual advice is to replace both switches (24mm nut). on mine one switch had its wires twisted inside the rubber boot - not shorted, but untwisting them fixed the problem.
jp

Randy V

Probably a false signal (assuming you don't have a brake fluid leak) - fairly common.

Try the easy thing first - disconnect the negative connection on the battery for a couple minutes. Reconnect and see if the flashing light is out.

Wilson

Thanx People,

there was no visable fluid leaks, so I checked the connections on the master cylinder, and disconnected the battery for the system to reset.
Works great!!

I am planning a major brake job, and will R/R the master cylinder then.

Thanks Again <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

John Struthers

Wilson,
My problem was indeed the sensor and worn pad condition. Front left pad was worn noticeably more than the right, changed sensor wires and pads. Rotors not grooved and mic'd almost identical and NOT warped. Oddly, the right front mic'd 2/1000's fatter than the left which means the right SHOULD have worn first...go figure. Either way all lights are now out, no pulling. and I am happy.
There is a pump up and hold test for the master.
Mine did not bleed down so no R&R at this time.
The other posts are still valid, but if you aren't losing fluid, the master is holding pressure and there is no noticeable change in brake fluid level just check the pads first. Least effort IMO.
I, personally, can't figure why a 2/1000's rotor width difference would trigger a brake pressure imbalance large enough to activate the warning system. The difference was apparently there the WHOLE TIME so why the lights only at the end of a pads life? A glitch in the wiring, maybe?
Ideas?
HTH, TIA
John S and Patty cakes.
Randy, If someone steals your beautiful intake -spyder - at the SITO event it won't be me! I would be able to prove it but sometimes my hood gets stuck (CLOSED) for days on end. <img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />