automatic trans reliability
I bought a 84 928S last week. It has not been driven for the past 7 years because of fuel injection problem. I bought the car dirt cheap and it turned out the fuel pump is not working.
This week I am getting some new parts for the car including fuel pump.
Question is; how reliable is the automatic? It hasn't run in 7 years so I am changing the transmission fluid and filter this weekend. How much fluid goes in it?
The car engages in D and R but I have no idea how it will run. Are they reliable? How much?
Thanks,
Giovanni
This week I am getting some new parts for the car including fuel pump.
Question is; how reliable is the automatic? It hasn't run in 7 years so I am changing the transmission fluid and filter this weekend. How much fluid goes in it?
The car engages in D and R but I have no idea how it will run. Are they reliable? How much?
Thanks,
Giovanni
I bought an 82' automatic last winter, it was a FL car, with alternator, and fuel pump problems. The Prevous owner owned it for ten years, and said he may have put 100 miles on it in the last five. I changed the fluid and added a "lucas" conditioner to sooth any rough spots in the tranny.
But to address your primary question, I have found the auto trans very reliable.
But to address your primary question, I have found the auto trans very reliable.
Giovanni,
Welcome to the brotherhood.
With a car that has not been driving in seven years I would also drain the fluid in the torque converter. Remember to turn the engine in the direction of engine rotation only. The fluid capacity with the torque converter drained would be 8 to 9 quarts.
Check the trans fluid with the car on lever ground, engine hot, running in park. The level should be between 0 min and 0 max.
If you need more information search the archives. If you have trouble I’m sure Randy V. will help you.
On a personal basis the Mercedes Benz transmission, which are in all 928’s, are very durable and reliable, I’ve owned three 928’s and many Mercedes Benz, never had one leave me stranded.
On a professional basis transmission are my lively hoods. Mercedes Benz transmissions are very reliable.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Welcome to the brotherhood.
With a car that has not been driving in seven years I would also drain the fluid in the torque converter. Remember to turn the engine in the direction of engine rotation only. The fluid capacity with the torque converter drained would be 8 to 9 quarts.
Check the trans fluid with the car on lever ground, engine hot, running in park. The level should be between 0 min and 0 max.
If you need more information search the archives. If you have trouble I’m sure Randy V. will help you.
On a personal basis the Mercedes Benz transmission, which are in all 928’s, are very durable and reliable, I’ve owned three 928’s and many Mercedes Benz, never had one leave me stranded.
On a professional basis transmission are my lively hoods. Mercedes Benz transmissions are very reliable.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Thanks, it is good to be here :-)
I have another concern though.
The previous owner used to charge the battery in the car. He started the engine twice with the battery charger "on". Is there a chance he may have toasted the brain of the porsche?
Please advice.
Thanks,
Giovanni.
I have another concern though.
The previous owner used to charge the battery in the car. He started the engine twice with the battery charger "on". Is there a chance he may have toasted the brain of the porsche?
Please advice.
Thanks,
Giovanni.
Paisan,
Always a 'chance' of a deep fried brain.
Not giggling at you, but you are ,one way or the other, fixin'to find out.
Anything that has seals and gaskets, sits for years is probably going to have problems.
Most of the Guru's do not recommend transmission seal conditioners, but if ever there was a canidate,,,your tranny is it!
The concern is that you will soften/swell not just the case seals and gaskets but internal seals/'O' rings ect.... You might dilute the conditioner by only using a third or half the amount in the 1pt/1qt container. Run the car for say 300 miles of city suburban driving ; use all the gears. Then drain and refill with a quality non synthetic. Engine may have seal and gasket problems as well. Plenty of posts and replies on that as well. Theory there is similar with concensus -right or wrong - being to stick with a quality non synthetic to prevent additional leaks from hardened seals and gaskets.
Some of the PO's injector problems may have been related to the brain in the first place.
You are going to find out thru a variety of symptoms, would be nice if you knew someone with a spare brain or willing to do a swap to test/see if some of the engine management problems go away.
By and large, EVEN IF you get her running there may be a brain problem - I hope not -. Remember if you haven't run her in a while, swapped or disconnected the battery or the charge has dropped much below 12 volts you will probably be running rich, rough idle, mystery suana condition may arise until the computer 'learns'/adapts.
When I disconnect my Batt. in a daily driver the brain will go back to default mapping with most of the above symptoms for about 10-15 minutes after warm-up and driving then things smooth out.
Wish you and your sHARk the best, HTH.
John S.
P>S>
If she sat that long read all you can on the Vacuum line posts. Do not reset that odometer while in motion! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Always a 'chance' of a deep fried brain.
Not giggling at you, but you are ,one way or the other, fixin'to find out.
Anything that has seals and gaskets, sits for years is probably going to have problems.
Most of the Guru's do not recommend transmission seal conditioners, but if ever there was a canidate,,,your tranny is it!
The concern is that you will soften/swell not just the case seals and gaskets but internal seals/'O' rings ect.... You might dilute the conditioner by only using a third or half the amount in the 1pt/1qt container. Run the car for say 300 miles of city suburban driving ; use all the gears. Then drain and refill with a quality non synthetic. Engine may have seal and gasket problems as well. Plenty of posts and replies on that as well. Theory there is similar with concensus -right or wrong - being to stick with a quality non synthetic to prevent additional leaks from hardened seals and gaskets.
Some of the PO's injector problems may have been related to the brain in the first place.
You are going to find out thru a variety of symptoms, would be nice if you knew someone with a spare brain or willing to do a swap to test/see if some of the engine management problems go away.
By and large, EVEN IF you get her running there may be a brain problem - I hope not -. Remember if you haven't run her in a while, swapped or disconnected the battery or the charge has dropped much below 12 volts you will probably be running rich, rough idle, mystery suana condition may arise until the computer 'learns'/adapts.
When I disconnect my Batt. in a daily driver the brain will go back to default mapping with most of the above symptoms for about 10-15 minutes after warm-up and driving then things smooth out.
Wish you and your sHARk the best, HTH.
John S.
P>S>
If she sat that long read all you can on the Vacuum line posts. Do not reset that odometer while in motion! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

