IcemanG17

its easy with the Motive....I need to do mine soon......I plan on using Valvoline Syntech brake fluid....only slightly less boiling point that ATE super blue-gold for about 1/2 the price.....I also vote to return the speed bleeders...really not needed with the motive....

dr bob

Has to do with the way the fluid flows in the caliper -- from inner to outer through that crossover tube. Get all the contaminated/old fluid out of the inner chamber first, leaving no chance for dirty fluid in the inner chamber to pass through to the outer.

shmark

+1 I used Valvoline Syntech in my track 914, hundreds of laps without a single problem. Admittedly a much lighter car (2000 lbs wet), but driven hard all the time, and I guarantee saw much higher temps than any street car.

blitz928

Valvoline Syntech, available at most auto part stores?? Autozone, etc?

bwoyat

I did a couple of bleeds this past summer as I was getting ready for a track day:

1. Motive Power Bleeder - no brainer
2. Speed Bleeder Valves - not necessary but figured new parts are not all bad
3. Fill Power Bleeder with ATE Super blue - switched to Gold for next bleed to see new fluid
4. Ensure Power Bleeder cap is on properly - First time not so tight, fluid all over the place! %$^&X*
5. Start with master cylinder bleed - need a plastic tube and an empty vodka bottle! Yum
6. Do the circuit - right rear, left rear, right front, left front
7. Double check there are no leaks
8. All done! - 15 minutes
9. Test drive

After you've done it once you feel like a pro!

Brent
89S4 Euro

shmark

Another vote for Motive. I did a complete flush and replacement this morning and with the power bleeder I made two circuits in 15 minutes, cakewalk. Amazing really just how fast it pushes the air out of the system. My brake lines were completely evacuated while I replaced all four lines and rebuilt the calipers and the power bleeder just pushed it out in moments. Pump to 12psi and super simple.

Damn it felt good to drive again!

Mrmerlin

I suggest that you dont use valvoline for a street car as it will over time cause the seals to swell and then leak, I have seen this a few times on the cars in the shop where the PO added some or changed to this stuff, IF your on the track and you rebuild the brakes every season , than have at it. Otherwise use the ATE is is made for the brake seals that are in the brake system

blitz928

Ok, how many Liters of ATE super blue should I order?

marton

1 should be just enough, 2 is too many - probably 1.5 litres would be optimum.
If you do not use all of the 1 litre then the 0.5 will be a good reserve.

Marton

the flyin' scotsman

I flushed my system with less than 1 litre; if I was bleeding a dry system I'd have at least 2.

Mrmerlin

if your doing a flush and fill consider removing the master cylinder resivour to clean it, it pulls straight up and with some gentl prying should come free, .
Clean it this way, first drain it, then with some brake clean spary , slosh repeat.
Then with some simple green sparay slosh rinse out with hot water repeat till the resivour looks brand new.
Then fill with some isopropil alcohol and slosh, rinse , repeat, then dry it with a hair drier, this will remove all of the water residue.
If your using a pressure bleeder dont go over 14 PSI the resivour can BLOW off of the master atfter you refit it.
Bleed the master first, then the furthest wheel, to the closest.
2 qts should be more than enough,
if you have a clutch fitted , carefully cut the hose off just under the fitting for it , this should leave enough hose to refit it onto your cleaned resivour, dont try to pull the hose off of the fitting you will either snap off the fitting or damage the hose , a sharp rasor works well to cut the hose off the fitting, being careful not to cut deeply so you dont score the fitting on the resivour

Shark2626

..

Mrmerlin

I am not sure how others are using the motive bleeder tanks
BUT
all i use this tank for is to put pressure onto the top of the tank inlet,

I dont put any brake fluid in the motive tank ,
I only pump it to 10 PSI so I dont blow the tank off the MC
for the fluid change if you do have 2 different colored fluids ( usually the old fluid will be darker) flush the caliper till you get a liter colored fluid,
do the inner half then the outer half.

dr bob

I do what Stan recommends but I do put fluid in the power bleeder reservoir. In my personal experience it's hard to keep the MC reservoir full while flushing.

Do everything you can to keep air out of the system. That means don't drain the caliper then try and refill it as a separate operation.

So long as you don't press on the pedal at all during the whole flushing operation, it doesn't really matter which end of the car you flush first. Still a Good Idea to get in the habit of following the correct order. The correct order (for LHD cars) is RF then LF, then RR followed by LR.

Fluid that's more than a year old will have at least a yellow tinge to it that you'll see if you use sacrificial new clear vinyl tubing for the caliper end. The new fluid will be close to water-clear.

I use a turkey baster with a stub of plastic tubing to suction old fluid out of the reservoir. I found a battery water bulb suction thing with a skinny schnozzle on it to help get down into the main reservoir, but haven't tried it yet.

Mrmerlin

Dr Bob during the bleeding process, when the master tank runs low IE to the min line on the tank.

I unscrew the cap to bleed off the pressure then remove the motive cap and refill the MC tank,
then put the motive bleeder cap back on and pump it back up to 10 PSI.


I have never understood the idea of filling brake fluid into a large pressure tank then connecting it to the master tank .
What happens when its time to remove the cap, fluid must go everywhere.

Then spraying off the MC tank from spilled fluid the brake cleaner can damage the cam covers and intake if they have good PC on them.

If this is something that you do it would nice to see some pictures of your setup.

For me the less brake fluid thats around the car the less chance of fluid spills or paint damage will occur.
Honestly i have never had any problems with the tank running out,
you just have to be smarter than the bleeding catch tank to see how full its getting per wheel.

It was a while ago but when I read the WSM for a LHD drive car the bleeding sequence was LF RF LR RR.
NOTE this opposite what most old school mechanics have been taught,
Porsche does it from the closest brake caliper to the MC to the furthest.