blitz928

I ordered some speed bleeders and am going to undertake bleeding the brake system. It should be straight forward common sense stuff, but Never done it before.

Is there any special procedure such as which brakes to do first front ,rear,left or right?

I'll be doing it by myself, so keep that in mind.

Also, what reasonably priced Brake Fluid do you recommend, I was going to buy the ATE super blue but don't know if it's work the expense?

Any other equipment/tools you can recommend to make the job easier?

the flyin' scotsman

The Motive Power bleeder makes the job simple.

I was of the believe that all car brakes are bled the same; start with the furthest away from the master cylinder (RHR) and make your way forward from there ending at the master bleed screw. There was a post on this site that claimed Porsche advising the opposite............all I know is when bled from farthest to nearest the brakes work.

Fluid.............good quality DOT 4 is my choice; its easy to see the change in fluid when using a different colour.

leperboy

I used the ATE Super Blue. I have heard the Castrol DOT 4 is good too. The auto parts stores around here don't carry anything but their own label, STP and maybe one other, none of which were good.

As for bleeding, go for farthest away from master cylinder to nearest. So passenger side rear, driver side rear, passenger side front, driver side front. Don't forget there are two bleeders on every caliper: inner and outer. I bled outer first, then inner.

Matt

dr bob

There were some discussions on n ormal vs 'Porsche' order of bleeding, but... Bleeding the farthest first means there's less change of contamination of the already-bled circuit. It's as simple as that. Most inportant when bleeding for air, least important when doiung a full flush-and-replace on the fluid.

The speed bleeders are kinda cute, but you'll be filling the reservoir more than a few times before you get all the fluid changed. I like the power bleeder because it's fast, easy, foolproof. You have the speed bleeders already, no worries. Just be sure that you don't let the reservoir go low or you get to start all over again.

On the individual wheels, do the inside cavity first, then the outer cavity.


I've had good results using the Castrol LMA DOT4 fluid that's pretty commonly available. It takes a little more than one big bottle to do my 928 with the power bleeder. Stuff is relatively cheap. If you plan on changing fluid every six months, like for track use, the ATE blue and gold fluids make it a bit easier to see when the old is out and the new is in. Otherwise, the Castrol is almost water-clear when installed. It gathers a pale yellow color in my car in a year, visible enough to tell when the old stuff has flushed through. Using the power bleeder, I end up pushing most of the second bottle through anyway so there's no risk of old fluid remaining.

The top ratings on DOT4 fluid probably comes in one of the more exotic Motul fluids, at least the last time I looked. Dry boiling point is better than the ATE or the Castrol, so it might help if you track the car. Performance and motorcycle shops have it. For street driving, almost any name-brand DOT4 fluid will likely be OK. Just stay far away from the silicone fluids.

123quattro

Ford heavy duty fluid (red and white small bottle) for the Ford Focus is a good and cheap DOT3 fluid. It is compatible with a DOT4 fluid as well. I've used it on the track and was fine.

StratfordShark

+1 on the Motive Power Bleeder - excellent tool which makes either bleeding or a complete flush of the brakes very easy and sure.

85fortheDrive

+1 +1

Charley B

There are some excellant threads on brake bleeding here if you do a search. You will learn things like bleed front and back simultaneously, first inner then outer. Interesting stuff.

blitz928

THanks all I found some info on the search, I also and am going to go with the Motive Poser Bleeder pump along with the speed bleeders on the calipers.

Thanks again

dr bob

With the Motive, you needn't bother with the speed bleeders. get your money back on them in the xchange for the Motiv tool.

Mrmerlin

pay careful attention to your master cylinder there may be a bleeder on it .
If there is, then you should bleed this first, I suggest to use ATE brand fluid,
they also make the master cylinders, with a Castrol a second best choice.

If the brake system is old IE the master is older than say 5 years it might be a good idea to to not push the pedal to the floor to force the fluid out this will put the master seals into parts of the bore that they are not normally in and thus if there is rust or corrosion in the master bore the seals will get cut and then start to leak internally,
this then results in a new master being required a few months after the Brake job.

blitz928

So no need for the speed bleeders, I guess you open the bleeders and the pressure from the Motive Pump keeps air from coming back in.


Thanks for the advice

marton

With the 928 you can also gravity bleed, just open the bleeders & wait. Of course it is quicker with a power bleeder. Also if you have a manual then a power bleeder is more reliable for bleeding the clutch hydraulics; if you have some stubborn air bubbles.

I am a great believer in Ford heavy duty fluid; it has a much better spec. for resistance to high heat than more expensive fluids.

Marton

the flyin' scotsman

Correct

Correct...........making bleeding and/or replacing so easy its more work taking the wheels off.

Heed the above advice re. the pressure; I don't believe I've been much above 12psi.

jthwan22

What is the reason to bleed the inner before the outer one?