I feel defeated (head gasket leaking again)
01-09-2008, 04:25 PM
#31
If both heads are milled properly the angle of fit for the crossover won't change. What can change is the alignment of the bolt hole on the head and the opening of the crossover. If that happens the bolt hole will need to be enlarged or elongated to match the head. The width of the mating/gasket surfaces are sufficient to still give proper sealing for normal milling or surfacing.
BTW +1 on the Bars.
Dennis
BTW +1 on the Bars.
Dennis
01-12-2008, 02:58 AM
#32
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milling of the heads and their relationship to the water cross over depends upon how much the heads are milled and what the cross over mating surface angles are. milling one head will disturb those angles, but as to how far you can mill both heads and still get he cross over to seal is something I can't put a finger on at the moment. Porsche has published limits as to how far you can mill the heads before throwaway, so I would expect (although I don't know for sure) that the cross over may be un-affected if you are within milling tolerances.....
Again, I base this comment on domestic V8's and their intake manifold/head relationships regarding head milling.......the water cross over is very similar to this example.
--Russ
01-12-2008, 03:04 AM
#33
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If both heads are milled properly the angle of fit for the crossover won't change. What can change is the alignment of the bolt hole on the head and the opening of the crossover. If that happens the bolt hole will need to be enlarged or elongated to match the head. The width of the mating/gasket surfaces are sufficient to still give proper sealing for normal milling or surfacing.
BTW +1 on the Bars.
Dennis
BTW +1 on the Bars.
Dennis
as I said, it depends upon how much you cut off the heads.
--Russ
01-12-2008, 10:22 AM
#34
Russ,
If the heads are milled parallel to the original surface, the angle will not change, but the heads will sit lower and the crossover higher in orientation to the head. The change in height will be less than half the reduction in the head milling due to the angle. That's the way it worked on my 78 euro and the crossover went on using the original crossover bolt holes since the holes were larger than the bolts. Excessive milling (3mm+) may change this but is not recommended due to it's affect on valve clearance.
Dennis
If the heads are milled parallel to the original surface, the angle will not change, but the heads will sit lower and the crossover higher in orientation to the head. The change in height will be less than half the reduction in the head milling due to the angle. That's the way it worked on my 78 euro and the crossover went on using the original crossover bolt holes since the holes were larger than the bolts. Excessive milling (3mm+) may change this but is not recommended due to it's affect on valve clearance.
Dennis
01-13-2008, 10:37 PM
#35
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I gave you lots of advice in the beginning and it was all good. The only thing you did not do that I did was change the head studs. And we talked about that over the phone, and yes, it was a huge PIA to take the old studs out. I changed my old head studs to ARP studs and torqued the head nuts down an additional 10 NM.
Your car seemed to run strong at the frenzy. I even had trouble keeping up a few times.
I am just sick to hear this happened. I did not read all the posts on this thread but I feel awful about it. Hope it works out for you. Please keep in touch and let me know how it goes. Feel free to PM me.
BIG AL in VA
84 928S2 Euro twin distributor monster
Your car seemed to run strong at the frenzy. I even had trouble keeping up a few times.
I am just sick to hear this happened. I did not read all the posts on this thread but I feel awful about it. Hope it works out for you. Please keep in touch and let me know how it goes. Feel free to PM me.
BIG AL in VA
84 928S2 Euro twin distributor monster
01-13-2008, 11:56 PM
#36
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Russ,
If the heads are milled parallel to the original surface, the angle will not change, but the heads will sit lower and the crossover higher in orientation to the head. The change in height will be less than half the reduction in the head milling due to the angle. That's the way it worked on my 78 euro and the crossover went on using the original crossover bolt holes since the holes were larger than the bolts. Excessive milling (3mm+) may change this but is not recommended due to it's affect on valve clearance.
Dennis
If the heads are milled parallel to the original surface, the angle will not change, but the heads will sit lower and the crossover higher in orientation to the head. The change in height will be less than half the reduction in the head milling due to the angle. That's the way it worked on my 78 euro and the crossover went on using the original crossover bolt holes since the holes were larger than the bolts. Excessive milling (3mm+) may change this but is not recommended due to it's affect on valve clearance.
Dennis
At any rate, things don't quite line up as they should when you start cutting things........
--Russ
01-14-2008, 06:57 AM
#37
I'm not loosing coolant the reservoir is stayin level. The heads and cam boxes were decked by the best in the area. Just a small bit of moisture along the inside seam where it meets the block. It just started doing this because I check it often. Maybe the recent low temperature here has caused this? I don't have the time to go through all this again. I guess I would only have to do the passenger side but still sucks. Not to mention these gaskets are a fortune! Should I pull it all apart and replace the gasket and also coat it with some avaition permatex? I have no idea what to do.
The problem you describe is pretty minor, and the approach I would take is to do the simple things first. I had a similar leak in my OB when I first got it, but I was loosing a pint every few hours of operation. I eventually dried out the whole area in the valley, and traced the leak in the dark with a powerful flashlight.
Often we treat our Porsches as if they were different from an ordinary car, but they are still machines made and fixed by men. With the problem you describe, the only way you could hurt your car would be to totally ignore the fluid level and let the engine overheat. I had a Ford truck that lost a quart of coolant every month for several years. I never did find the problem or fix it, and drove the truck to 189,000 miles before giving it away. No big deal.
01-14-2008, 12:36 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
good point. i also raced with a very bad head gasket leak to the valley. this was fixed by Barrs stop leak for almost an entire season (the motor had 175,000miles on it too, and 40k of that was DE, racing) however, if the leak is on the combustion chamber, all bets are off, as NOTHING will stop that leak and it will presurize the cooling system and push out the fluid out the overflow tube.
im now loosing about a pint ever couple of hours now too. plugs look good, no visual leaks, no steam out the tail pipe. system pressure is always good and comes down over the usual 15min or 30min time frame. Not going to worry about it, but it is frustrating to not be able to at least know where the water is going!
mk
im now loosing about a pint ever couple of hours now too. plugs look good, no visual leaks, no steam out the tail pipe. system pressure is always good and comes down over the usual 15min or 30min time frame. Not going to worry about it, but it is frustrating to not be able to at least know where the water is going!
mk
There are three kinds of head gasket leaks. You do not have a problem with the cylinders, or with oil and water mixing. The problem you describe is very minor, and could very well respond to a retorque or bars leak. CRC makes a product called block seal, which is very good, but not as easy to use.
The problem you describe is pretty minor, and the approach I would take is to do the simple things first. I had a similar leak in my OB when I first got it, but I was loosing a pint every few hours of operation. I eventually dried out the whole area in the valley, and traced the leak in the dark with a powerful flashlight.
Often we treat our Porsches as if they were different from an ordinary car, but they are still machines made and fixed by men. With the problem you describe, the only way you could hurt your car would be to totally ignore the fluid level and let the engine overheat. I had a Ford truck that lost a quart of coolant every month for several years. I never did find the problem or fix it, and drove the truck to 189,000 miles before giving it away. No big deal.
The problem you describe is pretty minor, and the approach I would take is to do the simple things first. I had a similar leak in my OB when I first got it, but I was loosing a pint every few hours of operation. I eventually dried out the whole area in the valley, and traced the leak in the dark with a powerful flashlight.
Often we treat our Porsches as if they were different from an ordinary car, but they are still machines made and fixed by men. With the problem you describe, the only way you could hurt your car would be to totally ignore the fluid level and let the engine overheat. I had a Ford truck that lost a quart of coolant every month for several years. I never did find the problem or fix it, and drove the truck to 189,000 miles before giving it away. No big deal.
01-14-2008, 12:42 PM
#39
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I don't think I've seen a 16V that doesn't leak a little into the valley. If it's not going into the cylinders or burning off the exhaust manifolds, don't worry about it.
