solid rack bushings--sort of......
12-30-2007, 01:40 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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solid rack bushings--sort of......
project for the day was firming up the rack.
it didn't really need it as the bushings were OK, but boredom had overtaken my holiday.
taking a lead from Louie Ott, I bought a sack of galvanized washers ($5) and proceeded with the mod......
Unfortunately, Lowe's didn't stock a washer with a big enough inside diameter, so out came the drill. The washers must fit over the steel sleeve in the bushing to maintain correct rack installation.There is enough space between the cross member and the rack securement plate to put in three washers.
One side of the top washers must be ground flat, where it butts up against the rack.
As you can see in the pictures, one washer up top and two down below. Why one up and two down? Because, if you look at the factory bushing and the steel sleeve that's in it, you will see (rack position relative to crossmember and securement plate) that there is room for one up and two down.
You can do this without removing the rack, although it takes a little maneuvering to get to the driver's side rear bushing. The P/S hoses and steering column didn't let me bring the rack down far enough to put the driver's rear top washer in, so I cut a notch in the washer for the top side, to slip over the bolt. Otherwise, it's pretty much just putting the washers in and tightening down the nuts.......
The position of the rack is unchanged, and is now tight, tight, tight.
No rack movement at all.
If your bushings are totally shot, you can do the washer fix by accessing a batch of washers that fit snug in the rack and are snug on the bolt, with the washer set up I described above due to the spacing. Just remove the old bushing and stack washers in there.
Carl @ 928 Motorsports sells solid rack bushings for $62.50 per set (plus shipping), and you must remove the old bushings. Carl's bushings should totally take out any rack movement, but again, if your bushings are ok, the washer fix I did will just firm up the rack solid.
Due to space limitations, the rack will probably need to be fully removed (disconnect hoses and steering linkage) to do the bushing swap.
Either way, your car should stay better aligned and have better wheel control.
--Russ
it didn't really need it as the bushings were OK, but boredom had overtaken my holiday.
taking a lead from Louie Ott, I bought a sack of galvanized washers ($5) and proceeded with the mod......
Unfortunately, Lowe's didn't stock a washer with a big enough inside diameter, so out came the drill. The washers must fit over the steel sleeve in the bushing to maintain correct rack installation.There is enough space between the cross member and the rack securement plate to put in three washers.
One side of the top washers must be ground flat, where it butts up against the rack.
As you can see in the pictures, one washer up top and two down below. Why one up and two down? Because, if you look at the factory bushing and the steel sleeve that's in it, you will see (rack position relative to crossmember and securement plate) that there is room for one up and two down.
You can do this without removing the rack, although it takes a little maneuvering to get to the driver's side rear bushing. The P/S hoses and steering column didn't let me bring the rack down far enough to put the driver's rear top washer in, so I cut a notch in the washer for the top side, to slip over the bolt. Otherwise, it's pretty much just putting the washers in and tightening down the nuts.......
The position of the rack is unchanged, and is now tight, tight, tight.
No rack movement at all.
If your bushings are totally shot, you can do the washer fix by accessing a batch of washers that fit snug in the rack and are snug on the bolt, with the washer set up I described above due to the spacing. Just remove the old bushing and stack washers in there.
Carl @ 928 Motorsports sells solid rack bushings for $62.50 per set (plus shipping), and you must remove the old bushings. Carl's bushings should totally take out any rack movement, but again, if your bushings are ok, the washer fix I did will just firm up the rack solid.
Due to space limitations, the rack will probably need to be fully removed (disconnect hoses and steering linkage) to do the bushing swap.
Either way, your car should stay better aligned and have better wheel control.
--Russ
Last edited by largecar379; 12-14-2008 at 02:27 AM.
12-30-2007, 02:21 AM
#2
Under the Lift
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OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) stocks the proper 3/4 inch nominal (ID) washer. It's hardened F436 material type, thick and with a large (13/16 inch) center that fits fine - no drilling. Item number 9326430. Bag of 11. The washer is 1.45" OD and 0.84 (13/16)" ID. As a side remark, I couldn't really feel any difference between a locked down rack and one with decent factory bushings, but decent factory bushings is an issue.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-30-2007 at 03:32 AM.
12-30-2007, 03:40 AM
#4
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Here's an online source for the same type and size (well, very close) washer I used. 8 needed.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0156030
Less expensive galvanized washer.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0133551
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0156030
Less expensive galvanized washer.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0133551
.