Belt Retension/Timing Questions/Pictoral
10-20-2002, 04:18 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Belt Retension/Timing Questions/Pictoral
Hey all,
I was just downstairs last night re-tensioning the Timing Belt on my 89. It went well. Just a few things that I would add to a proceedure, if there is one that exists on this retension idea.
These may be obvious, but:
* If you take out the fan shroud, on a late car, you do not really need to take off the plugs - you can just lay the whole assembly on the top of the engine.
This makes the turning of the crank possible.
* No matter how hard I try, I can't do it without spilling coolant. You can reduce it by clamping the rear coolant line that is at the back passenger part of the engine - that leads to the hard line. If you clamp this, not as much comes out net-net.
* I think you might not have to actually take the ignition cap off, because it comes with the timing belt cover.
* The Devek radiator, which I have on my 81, is worth all 700 dollars it keeps you arms from being cut by those stupid metal tabs on the OWM behr. I think some of you know what I mean...
Now, onto the pictures. I noticed something troubling when I was retensioning the belt, and took some pictures of it.
When the timing marks on the pass. cam cog are lined up, the crank timing marker looks like this, or even more off, but that picture didn't work:
(Sorry about the fuzzy - my camera is not a high quality one)
The distance that you see from that O|T line is even larger at other times - almost 1/4 inch.
Is this bad? Is my cam timing off?
I have a timing light - should I check that? How else do I dial in the cams correctly?
Thanks,
Brendan Campion
San Diego, CA
I was just downstairs last night re-tensioning the Timing Belt on my 89. It went well. Just a few things that I would add to a proceedure, if there is one that exists on this retension idea.
These may be obvious, but:
* If you take out the fan shroud, on a late car, you do not really need to take off the plugs - you can just lay the whole assembly on the top of the engine.
This makes the turning of the crank possible.
* No matter how hard I try, I can't do it without spilling coolant. You can reduce it by clamping the rear coolant line that is at the back passenger part of the engine - that leads to the hard line. If you clamp this, not as much comes out net-net.
* I think you might not have to actually take the ignition cap off, because it comes with the timing belt cover.
* The Devek radiator, which I have on my 81, is worth all 700 dollars it keeps you arms from being cut by those stupid metal tabs on the OWM behr. I think some of you know what I mean...
Now, onto the pictures. I noticed something troubling when I was retensioning the belt, and took some pictures of it.
When the timing marks on the pass. cam cog are lined up, the crank timing marker looks like this, or even more off, but that picture didn't work:
(Sorry about the fuzzy - my camera is not a high quality one)
The distance that you see from that O|T line is even larger at other times - almost 1/4 inch.
Is this bad? Is my cam timing off?
I have a timing light - should I check that? How else do I dial in the cams correctly?
Thanks,
Brendan Campion
San Diego, CA
10-20-2002, 04:33 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm confused about your comment Max. You need to make sure that those marks are lined up while checking tension. I found this while doing that, and have included other things I found while doing this.
