Aluminum Ball Joints
06-13-2001, 12:13 AM
#1
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Aluminum Ball Joints
I am performing some front suspension work on my '83 928S and noted that the car still has the original aluminum ball joints (~85k). I know that there is a service bulletin to update these to steel ones.
My question is how necessary is their replacement?? The car shows no signs of play in the joints, nor any handling issues. If there is a legitimate safety concern, I realize it would be foolish to ignore them. Any opinions??
Thanks for any feedback.
My question is how necessary is their replacement?? The car shows no signs of play in the joints, nor any handling issues. If there is a legitimate safety concern, I realize it would be foolish to ignore them. Any opinions??
Thanks for any feedback.
06-13-2001, 07:28 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Porsche switched to steel bal joints because it had started getting indications that the aluminum ball joints were failing at a rather high rate.
If you plan on doing any type of performance driving (autocross or DE) you are strongly advised to change them to steel. You will most likely have to at some point. IMO, sooner is better than later.
If you plan on doing any type of performance driving (autocross or DE) you are strongly advised to change them to steel. You will most likely have to at some point. IMO, sooner is better than later.
06-22-2001, 07:12 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
We have received several reports of the aluminum ball joint carriers failing. I would srongly recommend that you replace them. There are several WYAITs (While You Are In There) for this job.
Before you do the ball joint carriers, carefully check/consider:
Inner tie rod joints.
Steering rack boots.
Outer tie rod joints.
Upper ball joint boots (the upper ball joints are not replaceable - you have to replace the upper control arm - $$$$. New boots are very worthwhile.)
Shocks.
Adjustable spring perches so you can set front ride height.
You must have an alignment - make CERTAIN that your alignment shop knows and believes that you CAN NOT properly align a 928 if you jack it up first. I don't care how experienced they are, how good they think they are - if they won't align the car without jacking it, walk away.
Before you do the ball joint carriers, carefully check/consider:
Inner tie rod joints.
Steering rack boots.
Outer tie rod joints.
Upper ball joint boots (the upper ball joints are not replaceable - you have to replace the upper control arm - $$$$. New boots are very worthwhile.)
Shocks.
Adjustable spring perches so you can set front ride height.
You must have an alignment - make CERTAIN that your alignment shop knows and believes that you CAN NOT properly align a 928 if you jack it up first. I don't care how experienced they are, how good they think they are - if they won't align the car without jacking it, walk away.
10-25-2002, 03:55 AM
#4
Instructor
I know this has been talked about to death, but.....I have an silly question anyway.
How much would anyone estimate that such a job would cost to have done?
I have limited tools and no way of jacking the car up aside from my single 928 jack. I know that the price would vary from shop to shop and depending on what needs replacement, but what I am interested in is;
#1 replacement of aluminum to steel ball joints
#2 replacement of any other worn or needed steering components
#3 feasability of providing my own previously purchased and new parts from the big 3.
Forgive the stupidity of my questions, I am just terrified to drive my car the hour it takes to get to the closest repair place I trust.
Is my fear unfounded?
I will tell you breifly why I am so paranoid.
Bad luck would dictate that normally the joints would hold up without replacement unless
a) you are on your way to to shop to have them replaced
b) you are in the middle of nowhere.
c) you are me in either above scenario and had your timing belt slip one month after purchasing your car and two weeks prior to the scheduled replacement causing catastrophic (>$7,000.00) worth of damage.
(yes I got it fixed by the way but it sure hurt and took a year for $$$)
Now I am worried about ball joint failure. I don't want to have to pay more $$$ if it fails on me before I get them checked/replaced.
How much would anyone estimate that such a job would cost to have done?
I have limited tools and no way of jacking the car up aside from my single 928 jack. I know that the price would vary from shop to shop and depending on what needs replacement, but what I am interested in is;
#1 replacement of aluminum to steel ball joints
#2 replacement of any other worn or needed steering components
#3 feasability of providing my own previously purchased and new parts from the big 3.
Forgive the stupidity of my questions, I am just terrified to drive my car the hour it takes to get to the closest repair place I trust.
Is my fear unfounded?
I will tell you breifly why I am so paranoid.
Bad luck would dictate that normally the joints would hold up without replacement unless
a) you are on your way to to shop to have them replaced
b) you are in the middle of nowhere.
c) you are me in either above scenario and had your timing belt slip one month after purchasing your car and two weeks prior to the scheduled replacement causing catastrophic (>$7,000.00) worth of damage.
(yes I got it fixed by the way but it sure hurt and took a year for $$$)
Now I am worried about ball joint failure. I don't want to have to pay more $$$ if it fails on me before I get them checked/replaced.
10-26-2002, 01:58 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
WOW, there are two of us around, uh?
I owned my car for just under 3 weeks, when I lost about 8 inches worth of teeth of the timeing belt. I belive it was caused by a locked up iler, and a worn oil pump pully. I finaly got parts, so this weekend, we're going to find out if a 83 US spec car has an interference motor, or not. We're crossing our fingers, and hopeing for a not.
Just before I lost the t-belt, I saw a car that had just lost it's frount drivers side ball joint. It wasn't a Porsche, but I figured I didn't need a clearer sign from God. I'm replaceing the ball joints this weekend too. Hopefuly.
I'm doing all the work myself. This is my tinkering car, so I'm gonna tinker. (All you have to do to keep such an expensive hobie is remind the sigificant other that every minute and dollare spent hobbing on this car, is a minute/dollar not spent in strip club.) ;-)
Now you wanna get the kicker to my story? I lost the t-belt on the 5th hour of a 6 hour drive. I'd driven through about the most barron places in the state of Texas. I was on my way home, and only and hour out, when the t-belt cut out, right in frount of a gas station. My father picked me up on an 18 wheeler flat bed, so I didn't even need a tow truck. How much lucker can a guy get? Now, all I'm hopeing is that it's a non-interference motor... :-)
I owned my car for just under 3 weeks, when I lost about 8 inches worth of teeth of the timeing belt. I belive it was caused by a locked up iler, and a worn oil pump pully. I finaly got parts, so this weekend, we're going to find out if a 83 US spec car has an interference motor, or not. We're crossing our fingers, and hopeing for a not.
Just before I lost the t-belt, I saw a car that had just lost it's frount drivers side ball joint. It wasn't a Porsche, but I figured I didn't need a clearer sign from God. I'm replaceing the ball joints this weekend too. Hopefuly.
I'm doing all the work myself. This is my tinkering car, so I'm gonna tinker. (All you have to do to keep such an expensive hobie is remind the sigificant other that every minute and dollare spent hobbing on this car, is a minute/dollar not spent in strip club.) ;-)
Now you wanna get the kicker to my story? I lost the t-belt on the 5th hour of a 6 hour drive. I'd driven through about the most barron places in the state of Texas. I was on my way home, and only and hour out, when the t-belt cut out, right in frount of a gas station. My father picked me up on an 18 wheeler flat bed, so I didn't even need a tow truck. How much lucker can a guy get? Now, all I'm hopeing is that it's a non-interference motor... :-)
10-26-2002, 02:52 AM
#7
Instructor
Greg, Thank you. I may do that.
ViribusUnits, 'fraid so.
My car has been driven very very seldom since 2000 and I havent even put enough miles on it to warrant an oil change yet. She is sound as far as engine etc goes, I am just more cautious than sanity would ordinarily warrant. I am in the process of replacing my entire cooling system minus the water pump (I just did that with the t-belt 250 miles ago). I got the radiator in and am just waiting on the rest of my hoses from one of the big three suppliers to get here on the 29th. After that I think I will get the brakes and A/C refurbished.
Anyone got any good experiences with knowledgeable 928 mechanics in the Galveston/Houston area? I am considering pro-techinik in Houston. I got thier name off Dana's website for 928 mechanics. (At least I think it was Dana's website).
ViribusUnits, 'fraid so.
My car has been driven very very seldom since 2000 and I havent even put enough miles on it to warrant an oil change yet. She is sound as far as engine etc goes, I am just more cautious than sanity would ordinarily warrant. I am in the process of replacing my entire cooling system minus the water pump (I just did that with the t-belt 250 miles ago). I got the radiator in and am just waiting on the rest of my hoses from one of the big three suppliers to get here on the 29th. After that I think I will get the brakes and A/C refurbished.
Anyone got any good experiences with knowledgeable 928 mechanics in the Galveston/Houston area? I am considering pro-techinik in Houston. I got thier name off Dana's website for 928 mechanics. (At least I think it was Dana's website).