Best "bang for the buck" performance mod?
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I'm new to this 928 thing, and while I'm sure that I'll be satisfied with the performance of the car I buy, eventually I'll start wanting more.
So, what's the one performance mod, upgrade or enhancement that delivers the most increase for the least dollars spent?
If it helps, the car I'm looking at is an 86 928s 5-speed with 120k miles, in "good" mechanical condition. Needs the usualy minor stuff but has have the Tbelt/WP replaced recently by a Porsche specialist.
So, what's the one performance mod, upgrade or enhancement that delivers the most increase for the least dollars spent?
If it helps, the car I'm looking at is an 86 928s 5-speed with 120k miles, in "good" mechanical condition. Needs the usualy minor stuff but has have the Tbelt/WP replaced recently by a Porsche specialist.
#2
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Two options.
1) Exhaust mods. check out <a href="http://www.devek.net" target="_blank">www.devek.net</a> or <a href="http://www.928gt.com" target="_blank">www.928gt.com</a> or <a href="http://www.928intl.com" target="_blank">www.928intl.com</a>
2) 911 Turbo
Good Luck.
1) Exhaust mods. check out <a href="http://www.devek.net" target="_blank">www.devek.net</a> or <a href="http://www.928gt.com" target="_blank">www.928gt.com</a> or <a href="http://www.928intl.com" target="_blank">www.928intl.com</a>
2) 911 Turbo
Good Luck.
#3
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[quote]Originally posted by KBlair:
<strong>I'm new to this 928 thing, and while I'm sure that I'll be satisfied with the performance of the car I buy, eventually I'll start wanting more.
So, what's the one performance mod, upgrade or enhancement that delivers the most increase for the least dollars spent?
If it helps, the car I'm looking at is an 86 928s 5-speed with 120k miles, in "good" mechanical condition. Needs the usualy minor stuff but has have the Tbelt/WP replaced recently by a Porsche specialist.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Best bang-for-the-buck might be a newer/later car with more power, bigger brakes, and better suspension bits already factory installed. Adding $2000 for stage-2 headers and cat-back, another $1000 for S4 brakes, another... Well, you get the picture! The headers on your '86 will get it up into the range that the S4 shipped with. The difference in brakes is noticeable even just in cruise mode. Difference in looks between the '86 and the later cars is subjective. I like the S4 look better, but that's only one man's opinion. Compromise is the "86.5" cars, which are '86 models with serial no's higher than 1000. They have the S4 brakes and suspension already, but retain the S2 look, along with the slightly lower HP engine.
I recommend that you drive a few cars before you buy. There are significant differences between the years, and even between otherwise near-identical cars. Do some legwork and be an informed buyer!
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
<strong>I'm new to this 928 thing, and while I'm sure that I'll be satisfied with the performance of the car I buy, eventually I'll start wanting more.
So, what's the one performance mod, upgrade or enhancement that delivers the most increase for the least dollars spent?
If it helps, the car I'm looking at is an 86 928s 5-speed with 120k miles, in "good" mechanical condition. Needs the usualy minor stuff but has have the Tbelt/WP replaced recently by a Porsche specialist.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Best bang-for-the-buck might be a newer/later car with more power, bigger brakes, and better suspension bits already factory installed. Adding $2000 for stage-2 headers and cat-back, another $1000 for S4 brakes, another... Well, you get the picture! The headers on your '86 will get it up into the range that the S4 shipped with. The difference in brakes is noticeable even just in cruise mode. Difference in looks between the '86 and the later cars is subjective. I like the S4 look better, but that's only one man's opinion. Compromise is the "86.5" cars, which are '86 models with serial no's higher than 1000. They have the S4 brakes and suspension already, but retain the S2 look, along with the slightly lower HP engine.
I recommend that you drive a few cars before you buy. There are significant differences between the years, and even between otherwise near-identical cars. Do some legwork and be an informed buyer!
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
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Bolt on 100HP
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#6
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Bang for the buck...
I hesitate to do this...bring the 928 community down to the level of the typical '83 trans am/mullet haircut/trailer park in Bithlo section of society...
But NOS makes systems for 928's. Add 125 hp at the touch of a button with reasonable reliability for about $1k-
n~
I hesitate to do this...bring the 928 community down to the level of the typical '83 trans am/mullet haircut/trailer park in Bithlo section of society...
But NOS makes systems for 928's. Add 125 hp at the touch of a button with reasonable reliability for about $1k-
n~
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K & N air filter - $56.00 US
Removal of catalytic convertor - bypass pipe
Custom exhaust - ????
I can state in my early 79 shark that the K&N air filter and removal of the cat-convert was the two best low-buck things to do. Remember, I have no sensors or computer gadgets in my shark. The beast seems to breath better over 100 MPH, at least when it's running in the 5K-6K RPM range. My top end is just over 145 MPH now...
I am considering adding dual E-Rams next year, but I'm autocrossing and running on a road circuit track...just for the fun of it (why have a fast road car and not drive it the way it was inteded?)
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">Porsche 928 Driver Website</a>
Removal of catalytic convertor - bypass pipe
Custom exhaust - ????
I can state in my early 79 shark that the K&N air filter and removal of the cat-convert was the two best low-buck things to do. Remember, I have no sensors or computer gadgets in my shark. The beast seems to breath better over 100 MPH, at least when it's running in the 5K-6K RPM range. My top end is just over 145 MPH now...
I am considering adding dual E-Rams next year, but I'm autocrossing and running on a road circuit track...just for the fun of it (why have a fast road car and not drive it the way it was inteded?)
<a href="http://clik.to/PORSCHE928DRIVER" target="_blank">Porsche 928 Driver Website</a>
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#8
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As to the K&N filters, you would be better off just removing your filter all together. The screen on the MAF will do just about as well.
Check the archives for lengthy discussions regarding this filter. The reason it flows better (questionably) is that it doesn't filter too well. Realizing what a rebuild would cost in money and time, don't sacrifice filtration.
Also, KBlair is looking for an 86, which has a hotwire MAF. K&N's have caused grief with this intake due to oil contamination getting on the sensor. The archives will detail this more.
Buy a 928, enjoy it for awhile, then spend lots of time replacing the hoses and vacuum lines to ensure that there are no leaks. The 86 has a paper intake gasket that will be on the verge of leaking if it isn't already. Taking the manifold off and replacing all the gaskets and hoses will freshen it up and help you become familiar with everything. At the same time you can powdercoat the cam covers and intake manifold.
Once it's back together and running in tip-top shape, it's time to supercharge.
Check the archives for lengthy discussions regarding this filter. The reason it flows better (questionably) is that it doesn't filter too well. Realizing what a rebuild would cost in money and time, don't sacrifice filtration.
Also, KBlair is looking for an 86, which has a hotwire MAF. K&N's have caused grief with this intake due to oil contamination getting on the sensor. The archives will detail this more.
Buy a 928, enjoy it for awhile, then spend lots of time replacing the hoses and vacuum lines to ensure that there are no leaks. The 86 has a paper intake gasket that will be on the verge of leaking if it isn't already. Taking the manifold off and replacing all the gaskets and hoses will freshen it up and help you become familiar with everything. At the same time you can powdercoat the cam covers and intake manifold.
Once it's back together and running in tip-top shape, it's time to supercharge.
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Well, lots of options depending on how fast you want to spend. In no particular order:
As mentioned earlier, cat bypass (~$150) is probably worth about 10 ponies. Obviously, there's potential emissions issues. Does 'fatten up' the sound dramatically. I run one and love it.
Headers will run you about $500 - $750 depending on style/finish. You will make quite a few more ponies at the expense of a quiet engine bay. By the time you have them installed, you're looking at $1000.
Upgraded suspension e.g. shocks/springs is about $1000 depending on shock used (generally Bilstein or Konis). The cost goes up from there if you select external adjustable or other hipo features. Folks that run the standard eibach/bilstein combo have been very impressed with the handling improvements.
Upgraded tires. Often overlooked as a source of handling improvement. Expect to pay $500-$800 for a really grippy set of tires. 'Course, you can upgrade wheel size at the same time to 17" or 18" wheels. Along with support for a bigger tire width you also generally get a lower sidewall which improves cornering. Wheels run from $1000 to $3000.
Upgraded brakes e.g. S4 style brakes will run you about $1000. My experience with S brakes is that they're pretty good but it really depends on your application and driving style. Fresh pads and rotors and good fluid will be the best thing you can do for reliable stopping power.
Superchargers. Good for a ton of extra ponies (say ~100-150) but you pay for that performance. Figure $3500-$7000 and a healthy amount of tweeking to get it 'just right'.
Upgraded driver. Take some DE (Drivers Education) courses on some of the local tracks. You'll probably find it takes several visits to a track before you approach the limits of your car in stock trim. DE's run from $150-200 or so and it's a full day of instruction and running fast.
My $.02 is that I recommend you buy the best 928 you can find/afford. Then spend the time and money to get it sorted out and well maintained. Get the beast running correctly in stock form, get your skills tuned up to match it's capabilities, then prioritize your mod list accordingly.
Others on the list can no doubt refine these approximate costs based on their own experiences.
At any rate, good luck and have fun.
Mike LaBranche
84S, blk/blk, AT
83 EuroS, weinrot, 5spd
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As mentioned earlier, cat bypass (~$150) is probably worth about 10 ponies. Obviously, there's potential emissions issues. Does 'fatten up' the sound dramatically. I run one and love it.
Headers will run you about $500 - $750 depending on style/finish. You will make quite a few more ponies at the expense of a quiet engine bay. By the time you have them installed, you're looking at $1000.
Upgraded suspension e.g. shocks/springs is about $1000 depending on shock used (generally Bilstein or Konis). The cost goes up from there if you select external adjustable or other hipo features. Folks that run the standard eibach/bilstein combo have been very impressed with the handling improvements.
Upgraded tires. Often overlooked as a source of handling improvement. Expect to pay $500-$800 for a really grippy set of tires. 'Course, you can upgrade wheel size at the same time to 17" or 18" wheels. Along with support for a bigger tire width you also generally get a lower sidewall which improves cornering. Wheels run from $1000 to $3000.
Upgraded brakes e.g. S4 style brakes will run you about $1000. My experience with S brakes is that they're pretty good but it really depends on your application and driving style. Fresh pads and rotors and good fluid will be the best thing you can do for reliable stopping power.
Superchargers. Good for a ton of extra ponies (say ~100-150) but you pay for that performance. Figure $3500-$7000 and a healthy amount of tweeking to get it 'just right'.
Upgraded driver. Take some DE (Drivers Education) courses on some of the local tracks. You'll probably find it takes several visits to a track before you approach the limits of your car in stock trim. DE's run from $150-200 or so and it's a full day of instruction and running fast.
My $.02 is that I recommend you buy the best 928 you can find/afford. Then spend the time and money to get it sorted out and well maintained. Get the beast running correctly in stock form, get your skills tuned up to match it's capabilities, then prioritize your mod list accordingly.
Others on the list can no doubt refine these approximate costs based on their own experiences.
At any rate, good luck and have fun.
Mike LaBranche
84S, blk/blk, AT
83 EuroS, weinrot, 5spd
Rennlist Member
928OC Charter Member
#10
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I am deciding to go the cheap way
the Devek Rear muffler bypass and welding up two Magnaflow SS 4" cans where the intermediate mufflers used to go so I can wake the neighbors and scare the Coyotes
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#11
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Do the MSDS headers make the car any quieter or louder?
Make it sound better or worse?
Any info on these?
Thanks
sparky <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
Make it sound better or worse?
Any info on these?
Thanks
sparky <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
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Thanks for all the info, but I believe I will take chris928's advice and just enjoy the car for a while, then start getting it back up to factory spec.
I test drove the 86 today. Dissapointment. Turned out it was an automatic, the interior need to be completely replaced, several noticable paint chips, a ding in the front right corner, and the tensioner warning light and "Stop light" came on about 100 ft from the lot. Well, what can you expect for $4300? At least the AC and most of the electrical stuff worked.
The car is at <a href="http://www.specialitycars.cc" target="_blank">www.specialitycars.cc</a> in Daytona Beach
<a href="http://www.promptservice.net/e-bin/carview2.cgi?p=../speccars/ev2&b=http://promptservice.net/speccars/sportsindex.htm&d=Specialty%20Cars&vedit=v4" target="_blank">1986 928s auto</a>
Would make a good platform to build a track car, but the whole Tbelt thing scared me off. Was I too hasty in that decision? I'm OK with an auto vs a 5-speed, but the car just felt sluggish. I could not get the kickdown switch to activate 1st gear takeoff, and after the tension light came on I turned around and went back.
I also drove an 89 Jaguar XJS V12 hardtop. It ran very smooth (in fact, better than the 928) but needed a paint job and some interior work. It was only $3000.
I test drove the 86 today. Dissapointment. Turned out it was an automatic, the interior need to be completely replaced, several noticable paint chips, a ding in the front right corner, and the tensioner warning light and "Stop light" came on about 100 ft from the lot. Well, what can you expect for $4300? At least the AC and most of the electrical stuff worked.
The car is at <a href="http://www.specialitycars.cc" target="_blank">www.specialitycars.cc</a> in Daytona Beach
<a href="http://www.promptservice.net/e-bin/carview2.cgi?p=../speccars/ev2&b=http://promptservice.net/speccars/sportsindex.htm&d=Specialty%20Cars&vedit=v4" target="_blank">1986 928s auto</a>
Would make a good platform to build a track car, but the whole Tbelt thing scared me off. Was I too hasty in that decision? I'm OK with an auto vs a 5-speed, but the car just felt sluggish. I could not get the kickdown switch to activate 1st gear takeoff, and after the tension light came on I turned around and went back.
I also drove an 89 Jaguar XJS V12 hardtop. It ran very smooth (in fact, better than the 928) but needed a paint job and some interior work. It was only $3000.
#13
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When you buy a 928, unless it had a remarkable PO, it's going to nickle and dime you for awhile. There may even be a few bigger repairs like timing belt, etc.
I spent hardly any money on mine and made vast improvements just by properly adjusting the wheel bearings and having an alignement done. This took the car from wandering all over the place to being rock solid.
The next thing I did was put Amsoil synthetic into the engine and transmission. The tranny performance was improved greatly. Shifting was so much better.
New belts, some tuning-up, and lots of cleaning in the engine bay, fender wells, underneath and inside the car really made it feel like a different car and helped me get familiar with where everything is hidden (like the battery hiding under the spare tire).
By the time you're done with all that kind of stuff, you'll have a good idea what performance mods you want to do.
Make sure you have a second car. It's hard to work on this thing if its your only transportation.
I spent hardly any money on mine and made vast improvements just by properly adjusting the wheel bearings and having an alignement done. This took the car from wandering all over the place to being rock solid.
The next thing I did was put Amsoil synthetic into the engine and transmission. The tranny performance was improved greatly. Shifting was so much better.
New belts, some tuning-up, and lots of cleaning in the engine bay, fender wells, underneath and inside the car really made it feel like a different car and helped me get familiar with where everything is hidden (like the battery hiding under the spare tire).
By the time you're done with all that kind of stuff, you'll have a good idea what performance mods you want to do.
Make sure you have a second car. It's hard to work on this thing if its your only transportation.
#14
Three Wheelin'
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Best performance mod on a 928 is to get the car in good working order first. Many have original plug wires, coils, caps and rotors. These can rob power. Also a new and clean air filter. Get the car breathing and firing right first, or else many performance mods will not reach their full potential.