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928 Euro CIS K-jetronic Control Pressure

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Old 08-27-2002, 10:04 PM
  #16  
Randy V
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Some tips that may be helpful:

Operation:

<a href="http://www.students.tut.fi/~hezekiel/bosch.htm" target="_blank">http://www.students.tut.fi/~hezekiel/bosch.htm</a>


Troubleshooting:

<a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ficis.html#fuelp" target="_blank">http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ficis.html#fuelp</a>
Old 08-28-2002, 12:46 AM
  #17  
Dennis Wilson
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Jackin,

Have you tried adjusting your air/fuel mixture since putting on your rebuilt distributor? Try increasing/decreasing the adjustment by 1/2 turn then test drive it.

If that doesn't help and all of your lines are clear I would say it's time to start looking at the WUR again. It sounds like the bimetal spring is loose or broken but the likelyhood of that happening on both units is remote.

Dennis
Old 08-28-2002, 04:20 AM
  #18  
jpitman
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Paul,
Dont forget that somebody on the email list (ptcon??) found that his distributor regulator was binding in its bore as it heated up. He eventually fixed it by polishing it down until it behaved. The binding was causing the pressure to go high with temperature rise. See if you can search the mails over the last few weeks.
jp
Old 08-28-2002, 04:33 PM
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Jack in Malta
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A couple of questions.

Can the mixture affect the control pressure?

Regarding the sticking regulator I will check it out but the car does the same when totally cold so I dont think heat has anything to do with this but the tip is welcome anyway.

Also the system pressure doesnt vary more than 2 lbs if that.
What is odd is when this happens, if I manage to keep the car running (very difficult) and look at the pressure guage it is fluctuating between 30lbs and 80 lbs and the idle goes up and down at the same time which should give a clue to what is happening.
Turn the car off for 3 seconds and its back to 38lbs control pressure and perfect idle speed that is steady until you drive it again.

I am going to try and do some tests where I dont exceed 2000rpm when driving and see if it still happens and increase the revs 500 rpm at a time until this problem occurs and take it from there

This is really odd and I must be able to trace this
Old 08-28-2002, 10:29 PM
  #20  
Dennis Wilson
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Jackin,

The air/fuel adjuster move the plunger in relation to the air sensor plate. If the plunger is way out of adjustment or reversed in the cylinder it won't let the control pressure stay steady by relieving through the decoupler orifices. On the other end of the control pressure system, the relief, if sluggish could cause the fluccuations.

You had previously mentioned the vacuum line to the WUR. Some have two vacuum lines to them, one on top and one on the side. If yours is a two line system and the lines were reversed, high control pressure could result.

Dennis
Old 08-30-2002, 06:16 PM
  #21  
Jack in Malta
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Hi

The plunger is in the correct way round, this I established.

i decided to remove the fuel distributor and have a good look at it today.

The first thin i noticed is that there is a lot of GREASE around the plunger area, ouzing out from where the plunger and its guide are located.

I also noticed that the plunger is not that smooth when moving and when i removed it (very carefully) there are traces of grease on it as well, very small but i am sure they are enough to stop smooth movement.

I may be wrong but I am sure this isnt correct.

I have no idea what these guys did to recondition this unit but I am sure it isnt supposed to be dripping grease!

Pertol doesnt seem to dissolve this stuff, just goes into small clumps of about 1mm and cuases things to stick a little

Whats the best way of flushing this stuff out.

if I lived in the UK I would take it back personally but its 2000 miles away so by the time I got there I would be calm and relaxed!!

Just gets better - all I need now is a good sposor, like bacardi and pepsi
Old 08-30-2002, 06:43 PM
  #22  
Randy V
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That sure sounds like the culprit Jack.

Sounds like they may have used some sort of silicone grease when remating the halves of the fuel distributor after the rebuild.

The plunger should move smoothly within the cylinder - this 'grease' stuff will have to go. No ideas on how to remove it though. No telling if the interior ports are also mucked up.

Max has previously indicated he has successfully rebuilt CIS fuel distributors - perhaps he'll chime in.
Old 08-30-2002, 07:34 PM
  #23  
Jack in Malta
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This grease seems to be centralised around the plunger area, if fact when I ran the fuel test on the injectors they all delivered the same fuel flow.

What let me to this was when the system had no pressure the plunger didnt always return at the same speed so I took off the fuel distributor, then I noticed if I spun the plunger gently it would sometimes stick so I removed it and found a few minute traces of grease on the metal surface which seem to cuase it to drag

Also at the bottom of the unit there was a lot of grease where the plunger guide was fitted and this was not there when I fitted the refurbished unit!!

All i need is a solvent that doesnt damage rubber seals etc but dissolves grease and with a little luck all will be well!

<img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
Old 08-31-2002, 12:28 AM
  #24  
Dennis Wilson
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Jackin,

I used grease to seal the two halves of the distributor when I rebuilt mine, but there was no reason to coat the plunger or cylinder. It could have been put on all exposed machine surfaces to keep them from rsting in storage.

Spray throttle body cleaner should remove the grease without affecting the orings.

Dennis

Dennis
Old 09-18-2013, 05:39 PM
  #25  
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Update?
Old 09-21-2013, 04:03 AM
  #26  
Igloo
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Canadian Club & Coke will see you right!! Then scour the distributor.
Old 09-21-2013, 10:35 PM
  #27  
tailpipe
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I boil mine in a pot of water to clean them up from sitting for years.. No reason you couldn't do that with yours...



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