Trace Of Oil In SC Outlet & BOV
#1
Trace Of Oil In SC Outlet & BOV
Guys
I have a small amount of oil building up in the outlet of my votech headunit leading to the chargecooler, the chargecooler has oil traces at both ends and i guess its getting on the MAF aswell, which wont be good.
The BOV has an oily film on its outlet also
So do the vortech headunits have a small amount of oil leak past their seals or should they be dry.
I have a small amount of oil building up in the outlet of my votech headunit leading to the chargecooler, the chargecooler has oil traces at both ends and i guess its getting on the MAF aswell, which wont be good.
The BOV has an oily film on its outlet also
So do the vortech headunits have a small amount of oil leak past their seals or should they be dry.
#3
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Is it just a trace or can you see it pool up? Is there enough leaking to cause the engien to smoke? These suckers spin at a very high speed so if the seal is a bit worn, it could leak a little.
#4
Stuart,
The seal should be dry. I had to have my unit rebuilt under warranty by vortech. The turnaround was about 1 week or so. You need to get a return authorization number from vortech then ship it out. I had the bearing and seal replaced, and have been dry since. Tim can get you that RA # as well, I would let him know.
I did talk to the tech at vortech, and was told there was no evidence of excess oil pressure blowing out the seal, I just got a defective one. As a added measure, I did modify the dipstick by cutting it off at the handle to improve oil flow back to the sump. Just needed to buy a new dipstick to check the oil, used the old one as a "plug" for the dipstick tube/drain. Not really part of the kit, but if it improves drain flow even 5-10%, it was worth it.
Jim
The seal should be dry. I had to have my unit rebuilt under warranty by vortech. The turnaround was about 1 week or so. You need to get a return authorization number from vortech then ship it out. I had the bearing and seal replaced, and have been dry since. Tim can get you that RA # as well, I would let him know.
I did talk to the tech at vortech, and was told there was no evidence of excess oil pressure blowing out the seal, I just got a defective one. As a added measure, I did modify the dipstick by cutting it off at the handle to improve oil flow back to the sump. Just needed to buy a new dipstick to check the oil, used the old one as a "plug" for the dipstick tube/drain. Not really part of the kit, but if it improves drain flow even 5-10%, it was worth it.
Jim
#5
Mine also leaked from when it was installed I pulled it off sent it back and had a leaking seal. If it is leaking enough oil like mine did it will cause the car to hesatate while driving it under a steady rpm. It lets oil get blown on to the MAF and this causes the car to not run right. I had my L pipe air inlet pipe off right where it goes into the air intake boot and I also had a little oil residue there a few months back. I talked to Carl Faucet at 928 Motorsports and I need to check the fittings where it exits the SC for oil. It is on my to do list but this is the 1st place to look for a leaking SC. Also the MAF heats up when the car shuts off to clean any residue on the wires and this will burn off any unwanted oil.
Cliff 87 $ 4 Auto Murf # 44
Cliff 87 $ 4 Auto Murf # 44
#6
Thanks Guys
Its been damp inside since day one to behonest, just overlooked it but now its spraying out of the BOV and making a nasty mess.
Jim have mailed tim will wait for a reply, i think i'll do the same with the dipstick
Its been damp inside since day one to behonest, just overlooked it but now its spraying out of the BOV and making a nasty mess.
Jim have mailed tim will wait for a reply, i think i'll do the same with the dipstick
#7
Right here is how it stands at the moment. I have removed the dipstick and used a plug at the top. Cleaned all internal pipe work and the charge cooler and maf checked on oil inside each week and its slowly getting worse. I have been in contact with vortech and tim for help on sending unit back but have got no answer back yet. Is there anyone else that can rebuild the head unit.
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#8
Captain Obvious
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Likes: 340
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Right here is how it stands at the moment. I have removed the dipstick and used a plug at the top. Cleaned all internal pipe work and the charge cooler and maf checked on oil inside each week and its slowly getting worse. I have been in contact with vortech and tim for help on sending unit back but have got no answer back yet. Is there anyone else that can rebuild the head unit.
You can do it yourself. If it only needs new seals, it should be a very simple fix. That's all it needs, right?
I refreshed (new seals, gaskets, O rings) my Paxton just before it was swapped onto the 928.
#9
I will look to see how to re build the head unit. I dont really want to as the unit is not that old and has less than 2 k on it. But if all else fails ill have to. Im now about to change to my third belt as my 2nd is just about to let go.
#11
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
#12
Hi Stuart,
I have contacted Vortech and they will take the unit back for evaluation and repair. They admitted to having a run of SC's that were made with a defective face seal but your serial number falls a little outside of the dates of discovery. This is a very intricate seal and is proprietary to Vortech. I took an older sc apart that has over 20 k miles to see how it all works. I will attempt to repair this one myself but without that special seal I might just be wasting my time.
I will get you an RMA # to send your unit back to Vortech.
What's up with loosing belts? I have 8k miles on my wife's car with the same belt. I'm yet to wear one out.
I have you on my safe senders list so your email won't get lost in junk mail.
email me at murf928@new.rr.com
I want to help figure out what's up with the belt. It should last a very long time.
I have contacted Vortech and they will take the unit back for evaluation and repair. They admitted to having a run of SC's that were made with a defective face seal but your serial number falls a little outside of the dates of discovery. This is a very intricate seal and is proprietary to Vortech. I took an older sc apart that has over 20 k miles to see how it all works. I will attempt to repair this one myself but without that special seal I might just be wasting my time.
I will get you an RMA # to send your unit back to Vortech.
What's up with loosing belts? I have 8k miles on my wife's car with the same belt. I'm yet to wear one out.
I have you on my safe senders list so your email won't get lost in junk mail.
email me at murf928@new.rr.com
I want to help figure out what's up with the belt. It should last a very long time.
#13
Sorry sports fans no whisky tango foxtrot here
First belt cut its self up after headunit pulley came off
2nd belt has badly worn on engine side with a nice V channel cutting through into the cords of the belt, can only see small amount of belt off end of righthand side pulley but lefthand tensioner pulley is marked across its face.
Belt tensioned as per manual or no more than 3 credit cards in the gap of the coil.
Thanks Tim i'll email you in a min
Hey this car goes like stink and loves to go side ways often
First belt cut its self up after headunit pulley came off
2nd belt has badly worn on engine side with a nice V channel cutting through into the cords of the belt, can only see small amount of belt off end of righthand side pulley but lefthand tensioner pulley is marked across its face.
Belt tensioned as per manual or no more than 3 credit cards in the gap of the coil.
Thanks Tim i'll email you in a min
Hey this car goes like stink and loves to go side ways often