Fount Ball Joints
10-18-2002, 12:35 AM
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V -
The ball joint eccentrics (2 per ball joint) are used for individually making caster and camber adjustments to the front end. On the early aluminum ball joint type housing the innermost (closer to engine) eccentric adjusts camber while the outermost eccentric adjusts caster. However, if you have the later steel ball joint type housing the eccentrics are switched (caster is inner, camber is outer). If you are changing from the aluminum type ball joint to the steel one at least 1 of the eccentrics is different and needs to be replaced. Talk to any of the 'big three' 928 suppliers. I know at least 1 of them sells a complete kit for the steel ball joint. Unless there is significant damage or wear to the eccentrics (usually to the hex key adjustment hole) they should not need replacing. Hope this helps.
The ball joint eccentrics (2 per ball joint) are used for individually making caster and camber adjustments to the front end. On the early aluminum ball joint type housing the innermost (closer to engine) eccentric adjusts camber while the outermost eccentric adjusts caster. However, if you have the later steel ball joint type housing the eccentrics are switched (caster is inner, camber is outer). If you are changing from the aluminum type ball joint to the steel one at least 1 of the eccentrics is different and needs to be replaced. Talk to any of the 'big three' 928 suppliers. I know at least 1 of them sells a complete kit for the steel ball joint. Unless there is significant damage or wear to the eccentrics (usually to the hex key adjustment hole) they should not need replacing. Hope this helps.
10-18-2002, 01:35 AM
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V - The ball joints have a tapered shaft that is inserted into the front spindle. A nut is then used to pull and hold this tapered shaft into the spindle. Typically the tapered shaft will not pop back out of the spindle when the nut is loosened unless some type of ball joint seperating tool is used (Hammers, pickle forks, etc...). Caution !!! do not attempt to separate a ball joint with the nut on the tapered shaft completely removed or you run the risk of serious personal injury from flying suspension bits. Place a hydraulic jack underneath the lower control arm and loosen but do not remove the nut from the tapered shaft threads, operate the seperator until the tapered shaft is released from the spindle (the nut will act as a stop). Remove the nut and use the jack to unload the front coil spring tension. You should get a copy of the manuals to familiarize yourself with the procedure before you begin. Hope this helps!
10-18-2002, 01:07 PM
#5
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Thanks.
I'm going to try and tackle this job next weekend. I've got the parts ordered, so I figured why not, the car's already up on blocks.
I saw a car that had lost it's ball joint for the frount drivers side. It was some asian car. The wheel pointing 90 degrees away from the car looked scary. I'm figureing that thats God's way of telling me, "Relace the ball joints NOW FOOL!" Expecaly concidering I've NEVER seen a car lose a ball joint...
I'm going to try and tackle this job next weekend. I've got the parts ordered, so I figured why not, the car's already up on blocks.
I saw a car that had lost it's ball joint for the frount drivers side. It was some asian car. The wheel pointing 90 degrees away from the car looked scary. I'm figureing that thats God's way of telling me, "Relace the ball joints NOW FOOL!" Expecaly concidering I've NEVER seen a car lose a ball joint...