Got a friend with a shark that's in a little pain...
Here are the symptoms.... (85S / 5 speed)

1) Start car with clutch pressed (tranny in neutral)... no significant unusal noises.
2) Let out clutch (tranny in neutral)... LOTSA nasty sounds...
3) Gears make lots of clashing noises when try to engage (don't wanna try it too much, with all the nasty sounds...)

Any ideas? Tranny? Clutch (the clutch itself 'feels' ok) Torque tubes?
Somebody mentioned something about a 5 gear problem(which engages all the other gears?(sic))

Any idea on the cost of a used/ rebuilt tranny?
Any sources for such a beast?
Did the 85S have a limited slip diff option?

Thanks!

 

I'd say the nasty noise is your transmission.

Drain it and see if a lot of metal comes out. If so, you may need new bearings and/or gear sets.

If it comes out clear, refill it with a synthetic fluid and see if that helps. If not, have it checked out. A rebuild may be necessary.

Good luck,
Rich

 

Symptoms may indicate a couple of different problems.

Noise
The flywheel, clutch intermediate plate and pressure plate are bolted to the crank, and turn with the engine.
The two clutch disks are splined to the driveshaft in the torque tube, and these all turn when the clutch is engaged (pedal out), and don't turn with the pedal down.
With the transmission in neutral, the input shaft and lay shaft turn when the clutch pedal is out.
With the transmission in gear, the input shaft, lay shaft, output shaft, differential gears, halfshafts and rear wheels turn when the clutch pedal is out.


If you have noise with the clutch pedal out and the transmission in neutral, the noise may be:
Bad torque tube bearings.
Bad transmission bearings on the input or lay shafts.
Bad input gear in the transmission.
Loose coupling on either end of the driveshaft.

The torque tube can telegraph noise very well, but getting under the car with a stethoscope should enable you to determine the source of the noise. My guess is torque tube bearings.

Clutch Release Problems
The twin-plate clutch is an excellent unit, but it does require proper adjustment.

It sounds as if you have one of two possible problems.
Air in the hydraulic system causing partial engagement.
The intermediate plate is not centered, and is dragging when the pedal is down.

To bleed the clutch:
Try conventional bleeding first. (Open bleed screw, push pedal, close bleed screw, release pedal, repeat until no air comes out.)
If there is still air in the system, unbolt the slave cylinder (don't disconnect the line) and push the operating rod all the way in. Remount the cylinder and bleed again.

To adjust the intermediate plate:
Remove the clutch cover.
Use a woodworking bar clamp or a pry bar to push the clutch arm to the fully released position and hold it there.
Look closely at the intermediate plate. It must be exactly centered between the flywheel surface and the pressure plate surface. If it is not, find the three adjustment devices located at 120 degrees around the plate and move them with a screwdriver so that the plate is centered.

While the bottom cover is off, have someone push the clutch pedal and make sure that you don't still have air int he hydraulics that is preventing the clutch from fully releasing. If you do still have air in the system, you may have to do the Kempf Bleed. Under the dash, remove the pedal push rod. Remove the dust boot from the clutch master cylinder. Remove the circlip. Move the piston back far enough to rock the top edge only of the rubber cup just out of the cylinder bore and allow air to escape. Try to minimize the loss of brake fluid onto your carpet. Reassemble.