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Kim Crumb on "Buying a 928"

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Old 06-07-2001, 12:06 AM
  #16  
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Gotcha Tails, sorry for "shooting the messenger". I was rather disappointed in the article, after reading it per you recommendation.

p@
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Old 06-07-2001, 02:49 AM
  #17  
Tails
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Pat,
No problems re Hartech.

I have visited George Suennan's web site and enjoyed the "surf".

I will make up the cambelt tensioner as he shows and see how it goes.

Tails 1990 S4.

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Old 06-07-2001, 07:39 AM
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Tails,
Don't know if you're aware of it but there is a great and inexpensive belt tension tool available from 928Intl and, now, 928 Specialists. It's a re-make of the original Porsche tool (thanks to Jay Kempf) and is very easy to use..cost about $60.

Jim
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Old 06-07-2001, 11:47 AM
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Thanks Jim, hey i didn't know that. i will be putting in my order for one today.

Does the device need periodical calibration?

p@
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Old 06-07-2001, 05:56 PM
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Darren '85S
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Pat,
I adjusted mine last weekend with the aftermarket belt tension tool. The only maintenance for the tool is spraying it with WD40. It took me about three hours moving at very leisurely pace (probably could have been done in less than two, but this was my first one). The tool comes with decent instructions for 16 or 32 valve engines. Some of the steps seemed unnecessary on my 85 (things that they had you remove, weren't in my way). To give myself room, I removed the air ducts and fan shroud. Also, make sure you have a 27mm socket and a two-inch extender or extra deep socket to rotate the engine (unless you are freakishly strong, remove a spark plug first).

-Darren
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Old 06-07-2001, 09:12 PM
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Thanks Darren, I need to do this fairly soon anyway so I might as well get my tensioning tool right away.

p@
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Old 06-08-2001, 01:57 AM
  #22  
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By the way, what steps did you find unnecesary?

p@
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Old 06-08-2001, 06:12 PM
  #23  
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The unnecessary steps were miner, like removing the holder for a spark plug wire and loosening the bolt to hold the dipstick tube, removing the dipstick. None of it was in my way. Instructions were probably for a newer model. I wish they were with me, but from memory I basically did the following:
1. Disconnect battery (I just removed the strap in the back hatch under the tool cover and kept it from touching anything with the cargo net).
2. Remove two screws holding fan shroud and remove fan shroud and air ducts. Ducts are easier to remove if you also remove the brace.
3. Vent the coolant system by loosening the cap, then retighten it (don't leave it loose until you finish, because if you forget&#8230 . This makes the radiator hoses pliable.
4. Label & remove wires from passenger side distributor or at least those that will keep it from moving out of the way enough. Also remove the distributor cap.
5. Remove passenger side cam-belt cover (two bolts attach it). Be careful with these bolts; the top left one stripped and I was just using a screwdriver type socket wrench. You have to shimmy it off then just pull up and out. It’s a little snug, but will come out without forcing it. The instructions said the cover is plastic? Mine was metal?
6. Remove a spark plug and then rotate the engine clockwise through two complete rotations and align at TDC.
7. Check and adjust the belt.

Someone let me know if I botched any of this.
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Old 06-10-2001, 02:21 PM
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My cover is metal too Darren? Thanks for the step by step. If you don't mind my asking, how long did it take you to do- start to finish?

p@
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Old 06-10-2001, 04:57 PM
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It took me about three hours, but I was not focused. I also checked the electrical connections to the tensioner and did a few other why I was in there. That is the problem with doing your own work, it is easy to get side tracked and do other things.
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Old 06-11-2001, 02:50 AM
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Thanks Darren, I think i may check mine this arriving weekend. I will try ans stay focused. Have you had the intake manifold/plenum off yet? If so, how long did it take you to get it off and then back on?

p@
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Old 06-11-2001, 10:14 AM
  #27  
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Pat,
To get an idea on removal and painting of air intake housing have a look at the following web site: www.jageng.com
Click on watercooled V8,
Click on Register and Download page, and under water cooled V8's Note book for the 928,
click on Download and there is a whole section on removal and painting the air inlet.
Hope that this is what you are looking for.
Regards,
Tails 90S4
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Old 06-12-2001, 02:01 AM
  #28  
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Thanks Tails. I think this site is more post 86'centric. the 85 and 86 manifold and plenum are (in my personal opinon) a bit more challenging because it is rather large and complcated as compared to post 86 928's.

Thanks for the site advice though, keep'em coming, I do apreciate it.

p@
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Old 06-12-2001, 03:46 AM
  #29  
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Hi guys,

I got my tool on Saturday morning and did the job before i put my fan back in the car.I took pictures of that too.

I have an old bugger 16 valver. I didnt disconnect the battery. Why do I need to anyway? I dont have a brain to fry so maybe that only has something to do with the 80 and on cars. I will from now on take the extra 10 min. to remove the fan. It makes turning the wrench on the crankbolt a little easier since i can get more leverage on the tool.

Sound like you guys have the 32 valvers. Lots more steps involved.

If i added only the time it took to do the actual work it would have been close to an hours time. The difficult part of the job for me was removing and replacing the cam cover.

I seem to remember reading last week on the list that Ed Ruiz did his GT in a little more than an hour.

Good luck Pat & Tails

You'll be laughing about how you saved 200 dollars (300 +/- quid?) by doing this yourself.


http:/members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page14.html
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Old 06-12-2001, 12:04 PM
  #30  
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I did mine using the tool on my '87 S4.

Took about 1.5 hours start to finish.

Easiest piece of mind I've done yet.
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