Need a Wheel Lock Socket.
#31
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We have other ways to get them off if we need to do that, so no hurry on them.
#32
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Well, the first attempt resulted in the 'crown' of the wheel lock shearing off - as it's designed to do, I imagine.
The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.
Any suggestions, Greg?
I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.
Any suggestions, Greg?
I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
#34
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Uh Oh...
Do you have a carbide tipped dremmel, cutting wax, a very steady hand, lots of patience and 2-3 hours to spare...
Hope it doesn't come to that...
Once you get it off throw them all away... go with regular lugnuts
Alan
Do you have a carbide tipped dremmel, cutting wax, a very steady hand, lots of patience and 2-3 hours to spare...
Hope it doesn't come to that...
Once you get it off throw them all away... go with regular lugnuts
Alan
#35
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I don't suppose you are yet desperate enough to custom form a socket caviety with saran wrap and JB weld ?
Seriously - I did this on a VW 'security' wheel bolt: one was different than the other three .... about 5 min of work + set up time for the epoxy. Saran wrap or a spray of WD-40 is the release agent. Got a pic of the nut .... so one can see what will work?
Seriously - I did this on a VW 'security' wheel bolt: one was different than the other three .... about 5 min of work + set up time for the epoxy. Saran wrap or a spray of WD-40 is the release agent. Got a pic of the nut .... so one can see what will work?
#37
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I'm thinking I'm glad I didn't run out and buy those sockets yet! I have the same locking lugs that Randy does... I think I'll pay the local p-car dealer a visit. Randy, you may want to make your way down to Miramar and see if they have the correct socket. Maybe they will take pity on you.
I'd better get there before you do tho...
I'd better get there before you do tho...
#38
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Hmm....what about one of those "fits anything" sockets with all the metal pins on the inside that push back into whatever lugs there are while the high spots slide back into the socket?? if it will fit inside the rim it should work?
http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/gatorgrip.html
Okay its called GatorGrip....I've seen similar items at the local Sears?
http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/gatorgrip.html
Okay its called GatorGrip....I've seen similar items at the local Sears?
Last edited by IcemanG17; 01-02-2008 at 09:54 PM. Reason: found it
#40
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If its not over torqued the correct socket is easily the best bet for removal. Stronger sockets would be good...
Alan
#41
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Randy--
I don't know the number on mine, there's none on the key I have. My guess is that there is no good way for you to see if mine will fit without trying it, right? Below is a not-spectacular picture of one I have.
An option you have is what another suggested-- Take an old socket that just fits over the outer part of the lug nut. Use an old 3/4". Put something in the botton of the socket (like a penny...) to keep the epoxy from pushing through the square hole there. Spray mold release (silicone spray) on the lug it and let it dry. Mix up some 5-min paste epoxy, the kind you get in the two sticks that you mix together. Line the inside faces of the socket and the bottom, thick enough to form around the lug when you press the socket over it. Then press the socket over it. You need to press it hard enough to get the impressions in the epoxy, then carefully withdraw it without turning it at all. Make sure your impression is good, reform your epoxy and press it in again if necessary until you get it right. Let it dry overnight before you actually try it on the lug nuts, of course.
I don't know the number on mine, there's none on the key I have. My guess is that there is no good way for you to see if mine will fit without trying it, right? Below is a not-spectacular picture of one I have.
An option you have is what another suggested-- Take an old socket that just fits over the outer part of the lug nut. Use an old 3/4". Put something in the botton of the socket (like a penny...) to keep the epoxy from pushing through the square hole there. Spray mold release (silicone spray) on the lug it and let it dry. Mix up some 5-min paste epoxy, the kind you get in the two sticks that you mix together. Line the inside faces of the socket and the bottom, thick enough to form around the lug when you press the socket over it. Then press the socket over it. You need to press it hard enough to get the impressions in the epoxy, then carefully withdraw it without turning it at all. Make sure your impression is good, reform your epoxy and press it in again if necessary until you get it right. Let it dry overnight before you actually try it on the lug nuts, of course.
#42
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Well, the first attempt resulted in the 'crown' of the wheel lock shearing off - as it's designed to do, I imagine.
The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.
Any suggestions, Greg?
I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.
Any suggestions, Greg?
I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
Can you post a picture of what is left of the lock?
There is always a way to solve a problem.
#43
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Randy would something like this work?
I have the metric set in 3/8 drive deep well.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
I have the metric set in 3/8 drive deep well.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
#44
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