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Need a Wheel Lock Socket.

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Old 12-26-2007, 05:14 PM
  #31  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by Randy V
I've received the kit from Greg (Blown 87 - thanks, bud) and the replacement lugs from 928 Intn'l.

I think I'll give 'em a whack later today.
I hope they work for you Randy, keep them as long as you need them to do yours and Bill Swift's if he still wants to do his.

We have other ways to get them off if we need to do that, so no hurry on them.
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Old 12-27-2007, 04:44 PM
  #32  
Randy V
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Well, the first attempt resulted in the 'crown' of the wheel lock shearing off - as it's designed to do, I imagine.

The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.

Any suggestions, Greg?

I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:48 PM
  #33  
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Still stuck.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Uh Oh...

Do you have a carbide tipped dremmel, cutting wax, a very steady hand, lots of patience and 2-3 hours to spare...

Hope it doesn't come to that...

Once you get it off throw them all away... go with regular lugnuts

Alan
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:37 PM
  #35  
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I don't suppose you are yet desperate enough to custom form a socket caviety with saran wrap and JB weld ?

Seriously - I did this on a VW 'security' wheel bolt: one was different than the other three .... about 5 min of work + set up time for the epoxy. Saran wrap or a spray of WD-40 is the release agent. Got a pic of the nut .... so one can see what will work?
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:11 PM
  #36  
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Hey Randy ... the factory socket will still work, and you know the number, so just order one.
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:15 PM
  #37  
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I'm thinking I'm glad I didn't run out and buy those sockets yet! I have the same locking lugs that Randy does... I think I'll pay the local p-car dealer a visit. Randy, you may want to make your way down to Miramar and see if they have the correct socket. Maybe they will take pity on you.







I'd better get there before you do tho...
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:53 PM
  #38  
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Hmm....what about one of those "fits anything" sockets with all the metal pins on the inside that push back into whatever lugs there are while the high spots slide back into the socket?? if it will fit inside the rim it should work?

http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/gatorgrip.html

Okay its called GatorGrip....I've seen similar items at the local Sears?

Last edited by IcemanG17; 01-02-2008 at 09:54 PM. Reason: found it
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Old 01-02-2008, 10:35 PM
  #39  
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Light it on fire and call the insurance company.

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Old 01-02-2008, 11:05 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
Hmm....what about one of those "fits anything" sockets with all the metal pins on the inside that push back into whatever lugs there are while the high spots slide back into the socket?? if it will fit inside the rim it should work?
Nope - won't work on these because the key slots are little 45degree triangluar ramps around the outside edges. This profile is also what makes the key sockets expode if you over torque them - since it puts major expansion forces directly to the perimeter of the socket ring - At some point it just fractures into pieces...

If its not over torqued the correct socket is easily the best bet for removal. Stronger sockets would be good...

Alan
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Old 01-02-2008, 11:12 PM
  #41  
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Randy--

I don't know the number on mine, there's none on the key I have. My guess is that there is no good way for you to see if mine will fit without trying it, right? Below is a not-spectacular picture of one I have.

An option you have is what another suggested-- Take an old socket that just fits over the outer part of the lug nut. Use an old 3/4". Put something in the botton of the socket (like a penny...) to keep the epoxy from pushing through the square hole there. Spray mold release (silicone spray) on the lug it and let it dry. Mix up some 5-min paste epoxy, the kind you get in the two sticks that you mix together. Line the inside faces of the socket and the bottom, thick enough to form around the lug when you press the socket over it. Then press the socket over it. You need to press it hard enough to get the impressions in the epoxy, then carefully withdraw it without turning it at all. Make sure your impression is good, reform your epoxy and press it in again if necessary until you get it right. Let it dry overnight before you actually try it on the lug nuts, of course.
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Old 01-02-2008, 11:29 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Well, the first attempt resulted in the 'crown' of the wheel lock shearing off - as it's designed to do, I imagine.

The tools Greg provided do not have a socket that fits around the 'base' of the wheel lock.

Any suggestions, Greg?

I do know which OEM wheel lock socket is required - a '009' (from memory). I had written it in the owner's manual last time I got a replacement.
Randy I can send you the other set I have, I can send you some pics of them in the AM.

Can you post a picture of what is left of the lock?

There is always a way to solve a problem.
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:05 AM
  #43  
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Randy would something like this work?
I have the metric set in 3/8 drive deep well.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog


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Old 01-03-2008, 11:35 AM
  #44  
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See post number 2 here https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...57&postcount=2
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:48 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Hey Randy ... the factory socket will still work, and you know the number, so just order one.
That's what I'm thinking as well.
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