the Rheostat is simply a wire-resistor, limiting the 12v to the desired ilumination level. Corrosion on the open resistor wire/contact arm is one possible cause, but I've seen bad corrosion also on the contact spots of the resistor wire (where the 12v attaches to the wire). Turning the wheel will not resolve that. Simply take the two Rheostat-connector-spades off and connect them together. That will put the 12v on the bulbs and should make them illuminate fully. If not, check those two wires you got off. One should have 12v on it when the lights are on. Check if your clock ilumination is on...

The later models have a different Rheostat which controls ilumination electronically. I thing this was changed when the digital dash was introduced, so MY 1989.
Hope this helps.

 

The digi-dash rheostat was changed to a new version (not backward compatible) but it still actually works the same way... direct drive.

Alan

 

Well jason it looks like the next thing for you to do is to get Jim Moorehouse's set of WSM on DVD and then you can pull the pod and track down wich wires you need to hook together to light it up- or get a new reostat from 928int- either way get those DVD's - you can do a search and find out his info

 

Thanks Mike. I have the factory manuals on CD. They were the first thing I bought even before picking up the car. My dash lights work they are just not very bright. I've got to pull the pod anyways for a speedo problem so I'll deal with that then. It's obvious by looking at the pod that it has been rigged up as well so not sure what I'll find once I get in to it. The priority is getting the car running again. After I changed the fuel injection hoses it barely runs. I'm tackling it when we get back after christmas. Jason