A few weeks ago, after the first cold snap, I warmed up the car a bit and pulled out of my driveway and the car just died. Felt like someone pulled the coil wire. I turned the key and it started right back up with no problems the rest of the day. Last weekend, now its colder (below 32), the car did the same thing on Saturday but 5 miles from home. Started up and ran fine.
Sunday I would start the car, it ran 30 seconds, dies, starts, runs, dies.
After 10 attempts like this I kept the RPMs up around 2500, felt good, turned on the heater control, lights dimmed, car dies. Same thing a few times with a direct correllation to the heater. But later after much warmup the heater has no effect.

Voltage on the gauge on the dash always low but proper at the cigarette lighter measured with a voltmeter.

Anyone have any suggestions.

This problem seems to be somewhat intermittent.

 

HI,
I"m also in Mass on the Cape, there is a small crew of us on south shore that keep in touch if interested email.
If it feels electric, then it probably is. Tough for me to figure out what would correlate with the temperature though. You mentioned the heater- have you checked the connections at (well, behind) the fusebox for possible shorts?
Or maybe it's just too much load for the alternator- make sure the belt is tight and if so you might want to change the brushes in the alternator- pretty cheap and probably due anyway. Got mine from Vertex in FLA.
Of course, check for clean connections and grounds- that's one of the mantras of 928 ownership.

 

Suppose it could be a short in climate control unit too, but I don't know much about it's innards? Been in there before, but didn't undertand it....

 

Disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine jump post and clean all the connections, do the same on the top of the CE panel (2 red wires). Check the connections at the battery positive post too and all the grounds (battery, above CE panel and behind pod).

Sounds like a connection degradation issue somewhere and these are the most likely sources... others could include the alternator main terminal and starter main terminal.

It also sounds like you might have an alternator issue as well - but if you haven't had any problems needing battery charging - maybe not...

Alan

 

Where and what is the CE panel.

The battery is new and always holds a good charge.
I don't drive the car for weeks at a time.

The voltmeter always reads low and gets lower as more stuff is turned on.

I think the cold is contracting metals in the car and causing a connection that is marginal to go fully bad.

I think I will hunt around with a multimeter for low voltage and start under the dashboard. My problem is that this is my first non american car so everything is a little different for me.

 

CE = central electrical, under passenger (US) footwell, carpet.

 

UPDATE....

Sunday was sort of warm, in the 40's and I started the car up. No problems at all but I could hear
something buzzing. I quickly flipped up the passenger rug, removed cover and found the fuel pump relay chattering. I pulled it out and gave is a spray, pulled it in and out a few times and took it for a ride.
All seems well. I am thinking of doing all the relays the same way.

Tomorrow we are looking at snow in the afternoon so I will try to get out for a spin in the morning but hopefully all is well. I might just buy a new relay anyway.

 

I replaced the fuel pump relay. Found it a local parts store for $38. Exactly the same as the one I took out. Drove the car and all seemed ok.
No chattering etc.

 

I was going to write you and say it sounded like a fuel issue. My buddies gts stopped working and start again for a short time. His was the fuel pump in the tank. Thank god you are on the road again. Give it a good pounding for being bad.

 

Getting cold again. Try to start the car. Fires normally, runs 3 seconds and just dies like someone is turning off the fuel pump.

I am thinking its the fuel pump relay. Anyone know what tabs to jump so I can prove my theory?

I figure if I jump the pins and the car stays running then I can troubleshoot whatever is supposed to hold the relay in.

Any suggestions????

 

jumper pins 30 and 87. They are the pins opposite each other at both 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the relay. Also one of the pins is oriented perpendicular to the others. You can also look at the diagram on the relay to find the correct pin locations. Please remember to disconnect the jumper when the car is turned off so that the fuel pump doesn't continue to run.

 

When the car dies is there any other electrical issues??? Windows don't work, lights, ...? This COULD be a ignition switch that is bad. Mine did the same thing a few months ago. Just a thought.

 

Have you removed and cleaned the fuses with an eraser?? Look up at the grate above the CE panel.
Do you see any water drip marks/ rusty screws??
If so then its a good chance the blower box seal is leaking and getting the CE panel wet and this will cause corrosion and possible relay damage . If you find this then i would inspect all of the relays and see if they have corroded pins, if so then you should open the relay and inspect it inside

 

Yes - reread Alan's post above. That is likely to cure your issues.

 

I went through the entire panel l couple of months ago cleaning and tightening.
Also cleaned and retightened every ground I could find on the entire car.

I am going to try to jump the fuel pump relay first to prove that is what is dropping out. If so then I need to trace back what holds it in.

Maybe I can find a loose connection this way.


No other issues that I can find in regards to windows etc. but I will look at that avenue more closely.