clearance anyone?
03-31-2002, 03:53 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Arms Cache, WY
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
clearance anyone?
just did 1000 mile trip to sunny california in 15 hours. 134a a/c was ice cold (thanks Griff) and had car tinted which helped greatly. watch out for chp using aircraft near devore on I-215/I-15. if you see a plane doing turns around a point over the highway you know it's NOT student training!
have previously been aware of a coolant seep at driver side cylinder head which is now wet again. let's assume that in a year or two that i will do a cam belt/water pump/tensioner/seal/drivebelt change. at that time, should i decide to pull the head to replace the gasket:
1) must the driver side exhaust manifold be removed first or can the entire head/manifold assembly be removed in one piece with clearance around the the splined steering column shaft?
2) if the steering column shaft must be removed, must the rack be lowered or is there an easier way to separate?
3) what about clearance around the brake booster and associated parts?
i guess i should be thankful it's not the passenger side that is leaking (yeah, right).
have previously been aware of a coolant seep at driver side cylinder head which is now wet again. let's assume that in a year or two that i will do a cam belt/water pump/tensioner/seal/drivebelt change. at that time, should i decide to pull the head to replace the gasket:
1) must the driver side exhaust manifold be removed first or can the entire head/manifold assembly be removed in one piece with clearance around the the splined steering column shaft?
2) if the steering column shaft must be removed, must the rack be lowered or is there an easier way to separate?
3) what about clearance around the brake booster and associated parts?
i guess i should be thankful it's not the passenger side that is leaking (yeah, right).
03-31-2002, 04:40 PM
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Where are you hanging out while in the great and socialist state of California? There's a group of SoCal 928 owners who don't need much of an excuse to road trip for a visit.
California law goes two ways on the airplane issue. One of the definitions of Speed Trap in California says that using a time-speed-distance calculation is a no-no. Judges will allow it unless you really press that issue specifically. It takes a few court visits, and then the charges are usually dropped on some other procedural issue, to avoid a precedent I guess. My last exposure was a long fight, and the result was not the one I had in mind-- I wasn't found guilty, but I also wasn't able to stop the practice.
Enjoy your visit!
California law goes two ways on the airplane issue. One of the definitions of Speed Trap in California says that using a time-speed-distance calculation is a no-no. Judges will allow it unless you really press that issue specifically. It takes a few court visits, and then the charges are usually dropped on some other procedural issue, to avoid a precedent I guess. My last exposure was a long fight, and the result was not the one I had in mind-- I wasn't found guilty, but I also wasn't able to stop the practice.
Enjoy your visit!
03-31-2002, 09:24 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hudson Valley NY
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Snow
The 16v engines have studs for head bolts I don’t think you can pull the heads in the car.
I am not sure, the 32v have bolts.
Steve C
The Great White
The 16v engines have studs for head bolts I don’t think you can pull the heads in the car.
I am not sure, the 32v have bolts.
Steve C
The Great White
03-31-2002, 11:43 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Arms Cache, WY
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes it can be done. the dealer quotes 25hrs per side for head removal, or 40hrs to pull the engine. it looks like the way to do it is remove the cam first, then the manifold (if required), then the head. of course, a million other items need to be removed too.
Trending Topics
04-01-2002, 02:32 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Snowy,
Yes, you can pull the heads on your 2v in the car. The reason Porsche switched to bolted-on heads (later 4v) to replace the studded blocks on the 2v and early 4v was simply to allow adequate clearance for in-car head removal on the 4v motor.Apparently, like the 2 plate clutch, there were 'field issues' with head removal in-car on the early 4v. God knows, studs are better fastening solution, but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do, I guess.
Honestly, I haven't had the heads off anything prior to 84MY, but the engine bay of all the 2v L-Jet cars are almost exactly the same. Just a displacement difference.
You do not need to pull the steering shaft to remove the head. You do not need to remove the exhaust manifolds to remove the heads. Booster clearance is, well, TIGHT. Pretty easy to pull the MC off the end if it makes your life easier.
If you have gone to all the trouble of doing the waterpump,t-belt, and the intake spider, injectors, blahblahblah, you really might want to do the other head gasket while you're in there. It is (literally) 2-3 more hours of labor, and will save you redoing the job in 6 months when the passenger side gasket starts to go. Besides, you were gonna do a valve job anyway, right?
Greg
Yes, you can pull the heads on your 2v in the car. The reason Porsche switched to bolted-on heads (later 4v) to replace the studded blocks on the 2v and early 4v was simply to allow adequate clearance for in-car head removal on the 4v motor.Apparently, like the 2 plate clutch, there were 'field issues' with head removal in-car on the early 4v. God knows, studs are better fastening solution, but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do, I guess.
Honestly, I haven't had the heads off anything prior to 84MY, but the engine bay of all the 2v L-Jet cars are almost exactly the same. Just a displacement difference.
You do not need to pull the steering shaft to remove the head. You do not need to remove the exhaust manifolds to remove the heads. Booster clearance is, well, TIGHT. Pretty easy to pull the MC off the end if it makes your life easier.
If you have gone to all the trouble of doing the waterpump,t-belt, and the intake spider, injectors, blahblahblah, you really might want to do the other head gasket while you're in there. It is (literally) 2-3 more hours of labor, and will save you redoing the job in 6 months when the passenger side gasket starts to go. Besides, you were gonna do a valve job anyway, right?
Greg
04-01-2002, 02:47 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Arms Cache, WY
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
uuuuuuuuuh, valve job? who do you trust to ship the heads to, or would you pull the guts out and have someone do the grind only?
thanks for the btdt report on the head removal. i tend to agree on the passenger side, however, there are no coolant leaks from that side at all.
in any event, this job is at least a year off as snowy plans to be in SHARKANSAS mid-june!
thanks for the btdt report on the head removal. i tend to agree on the passenger side, however, there are no coolant leaks from that side at all.
in any event, this job is at least a year off as snowy plans to be in SHARKANSAS mid-june!
04-01-2002, 03:40 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Snowy,
I have a local machine shop that has done a lot of 928/944 heads over the years. Many for race motors.
It is, after all, just an aluminum head. Nothing terribly exotic about it. But, it must be done by someone who is a good machinist, who knows how to do the Porsche head if you want it right. Sadly, there are so many shops out there who don't spend the necessary time because they figure they can get away with it. Or, just don't know any better.
Perhaps I'll find time to make it to Sharkansas, does sound like fun.
Greg
I have a local machine shop that has done a lot of 928/944 heads over the years. Many for race motors.
It is, after all, just an aluminum head. Nothing terribly exotic about it. But, it must be done by someone who is a good machinist, who knows how to do the Porsche head if you want it right. Sadly, there are so many shops out there who don't spend the necessary time because they figure they can get away with it. Or, just don't know any better.
Perhaps I'll find time to make it to Sharkansas, does sound like fun.
Greg
04-01-2002, 09:42 PM
#11
Snow,
There were several Nichols Site references to the cams/heads, leaning heavy toward the cams.
Of interest, the locking tool for the cams and position -45^ btdc-. I was unaware that the cams could be damaged (warpage and breakage)until I read one of the posts. Some fairly detailed info on the studs including how to remove the one's you broke. One of the guys was working on a early model with reference to the pass. side head. Check it out.
John S. and Pattycakes
There were several Nichols Site references to the cams/heads, leaning heavy toward the cams.
Of interest, the locking tool for the cams and position -45^ btdc-. I was unaware that the cams could be damaged (warpage and breakage)until I read one of the posts. Some fairly detailed info on the studs including how to remove the one's you broke. One of the guys was working on a early model with reference to the pass. side head. Check it out.
John S. and Pattycakes