Injector removal from wiring
#16
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Lube. Patience. Lube. A strong set of hands. More Lube. (Boy does that sound weird.)
Here's what I do: use WD40, or PBBlaster, motor oil, anything that will lubricate the o-rings. It doesn't matter what since you won't be reusing the o-rings (right?) Work the injectors in a conical pattern to try to get the lube worked into/past the o-rings. Then keep working the injectors around while you pull up. Pull up harder. This method has worked for me 9 times out of 10.
Here's what I do: use WD40, or PBBlaster, motor oil, anything that will lubricate the o-rings. It doesn't matter what since you won't be reusing the o-rings (right?) Work the injectors in a conical pattern to try to get the lube worked into/past the o-rings. Then keep working the injectors around while you pull up. Pull up harder. This method has worked for me 9 times out of 10.
It just seems wrong to force them. I'm afraid I'm going to break something.
Sorry for the hijack.
#17
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Thx for all the info folks.
As to removing the injectors from the intake I guess I was lucky as they either came out or were loosend when removing the fuel rail.
Ken..........more info on those connectors pls.
As to removing the injectors from the intake I guess I was lucky as they either came out or were loosend when removing the fuel rail.
Ken..........more info on those connectors pls.
#18
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When we did my SCer install 1 1/2 years ago, DR had the special tool. Man it works awsome! I looked dead simple too.
Maybe PorKen can make a few of those for less than the price of the regular tool which I haven't been able to locate for a long time?
Maybe PorKen can make a few of those for less than the price of the regular tool which I haven't been able to locate for a long time?
#19
Captain Obvious
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Ahhh, whyda have to go and remind me. I'm going to do R&R the 86.5 intake this weekend(?), and I had pretty much talked myself out of replacing ten of the two pin connectors and booties with Audi-push-to-release type (no cutting, just swapping the terminals).
The 928 ones are so aggravating.
1 287 013 003 | 1 287 013 002
The 928 ones are so aggravating.
1 287 013 003 | 1 287 013 002
Why are they called Audi style connectors when they can be found on many other brand of cars. Did Audi invent them and was the first to use them? For example the Ford Contours and Mercury Mystiques have the same style connectors and have seen others at the wreckers have the push-release style ends too.
#20
Nordschleife Master
AFAIK they are actually Bosch connectors.
you can purchase them new at http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...osch-p-48.html with a pigtail on them, they have them without the pigtail as well.
Only $6.50 a piece hardly not worth replacing them at that cost as these ones dont need that tool.
you can purchase them new at http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...osch-p-48.html with a pigtail on them, they have them without the pigtail as well.
Only $6.50 a piece hardly not worth replacing them at that cost as these ones dont need that tool.
#21
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Maybe. What I meant was 8x9 out of 8x10.
That's just it: if you cannot work them out because the o-rings are bonded with the intake, then when you force them the pintle caps will give up before the o-ring breaks away from from the intake. Then you're sending the injectors off even if you didn't plan to.
It just seems wrong to force them. I'm afraid I'm going to break something.
#22
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Regardless of whether or not you like the special tool for the injectors, I just don't see how anyone can get the ISV connector on or off without it.
#23
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altho why would you pull injectors out that haven't been pulled in a long time and not send them out anyway
#24
Drifting
Hey I just realised I had a couple of the new style connectors. I got them from 928 Motorsports who describe them as 'fuel injector connector repair kit'. I got them in case I break a couple of connections when I do the intake job/fit new injectors (though I also have the special tool).
The Bosch part number is 1 287 013 003
Presumably you just cut off the old wires at the metal pins, and then crimp them into the new pins so no need for the pigtails?
The Bosch part number is 1 287 013 003
Presumably you just cut off the old wires at the metal pins, and then crimp them into the new pins so no need for the pigtails?
#25
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I wouldn't cut the old connectors off unless the wires were totally fried; You never know when you'll need that 1/2" of wire.
#26
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The shop price here for the female is ~$7 for the kit, which is the connector, terminals, and the boot, which is usually bad too. The male is $13 - pricey, but great for making a pass-through connection.
Most of the time, you can reuse the old terminals by sticking a jewelers screwdriver down the small holes until the tab releases. Then slide on the new boot, bend the tab back gently, and slide it into the new connector until it clicks. (If you get confused, the injectors have a wee (+) sign molded on the side, brown is ground. )
The terminals are used in all the Bosch connectors, even the ECUs, and they are expensive by themselves, so save them. (Or send them to me. )
Last edited by PorKen; 11-29-2007 at 01:40 PM.
#27
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Thanks!
Nah, send them to ME. (See above post. I'm down with disassembling the connectors; Once you cut a harness there's no going back... )
Nah, send them to ME. (See above post. I'm down with disassembling the connectors; Once you cut a harness there's no going back... )
#28
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Took #1 off this aft..........jewellers screwdriver worked just fine.
Now the next question............rebuild or replace with the Ford equivalent?
Now the next question............rebuild or replace with the Ford equivalent?
#29
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So, from what I read here, it seem that most of you take off the rail, then pull each injector out one at a time? I found it fairly easy to pull the whole rail and injector assembly out as one piece, then you can work on the bench from there.
#30
Burning Brakes
Don't know what other people are doing but on MY '85 I....
1.Disconect the fuel rail from the fuel lines.
2.Remove the small metal clip from the injector plug.
3.Remove the plug from the injector.
4.Remove the rail W/ the injectors and put it on the work bench.
5.Remove the retaining clip from the injector/rail.
6.Remove the injector from the rail.
1.Disconect the fuel rail from the fuel lines.
2.Remove the small metal clip from the injector plug.
3.Remove the plug from the injector.
4.Remove the rail W/ the injectors and put it on the work bench.
5.Remove the retaining clip from the injector/rail.
6.Remove the injector from the rail.