How difficult is it to replace the complete tie rod assembly for a beginner? Any special tools needed?

 

Dave:

It's one of the easiest things to do on the car.

Wally did a good write-up <a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tip654.htm" target="_blank">here</a>

Didja bend one?

 

It's very easy, just remember to have your toe-in adjusted afterwards. You will need a ball joint separator, or pickle fork to remove the outer balljoint and a large cresent wrench to remove the inner. You might as well install new boots while you are at it. You also will want to check the direction of the threads on the new inner ball joints before you remove the old ones, so you know which way to turn.

Good luck!

Dave <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

 

Dave,
I agree, not big deal.

However, you should do a front end alignment ( at least toe-in) afterwards, so you may want to ask your front end shop if you provide the part, how much would they charge to install it when they do the alignment. If the labor is reasonable, it would save you the time and the hunting for a couple of tools you may need to do it. (T/R seperator, big metric wrenches and possibly a pipe wrench) just to let them do the tie rod assy and alignment together.

Keep in mind that if the steering rack boot is damaged or split, it will need to be replaced as well. Also, good time to look at the rack for leaking seals. With the boot pulled back and motor running, turn the wheel to the stop and hold it there for 4 seconds. Don't force it, just make the pump work. Look for seepage at the rack shaft.

HTH
Greg

 

Thanks for the quick response. The front wheels have some play in them and the inner edges are wearing faster than the outer edges. I'm going to tighten the wheel bearings first, but I figured with 83,000 miles, it's probably a safe bet the tie rods need replacing. My rack seemed okay last time I pulled the boot back...a little moisture but no gush of fluid. I do have a PS leak, but it's from the hose from the reservoir to the pump...another (hopefully) easy project.

Will I need the ball joint separator to do the tie rods, or are you mentioning it because of the toe-in needed later? I plan to have a P-wrench align it as soon as the tie-rods are done and I assumed he'd take care of the toe-in. I'm trying to avoid having the P-wrench do any work other than the alignment itself ($$$).

 

TIE ROD seperator for the outer TIE ROD.